Herbie

Personally, no, I didn't.

I don't have any personal experience of either, but according to a lot of detailing people/forums then I'd say yes, by a country mile.

Headlamps yellow because UV radiation from the sun attacks and degrades the polycarbonate lenses and you have to clean off and get rid of the affected layers, which no amount of potions, lotions or other liquids/solutions can achieve. The only way to do a good job that will last is to use a sandpaper/grit abrasive, such as those supplied in either the Meguier's or 3M kits (Meguier's video below). Once you've got rid of the damage and got down to 'new' lens, you MUST then use a good quality UV-resistant clear coat or they'll just be as bad again in a couple of months.

£20k of your money plus the part-ex or £20k total?

This is a mixture of drawings for both left-hand and right-hand drive cars but you should be able to get enough information from them to give you a fighting chance:

Put a rubber band over the screw head and try again, it usually works about 95% of the time on small stuff like that. If that doesn't work, drill it out and replace with either a bigger screw or a set screw and nut.

Prevention is better than cure. Immobilisers are OK but only do their job once the scrotes are already inside your pride and joy. This is why I use a big, bright yellow, Stoplock Pro Elite steering wheel lock in my RX. In various tests and reviews it took more than five minutes to defeat it, using a variety of hammers, saws and chisels. That's five minutes of noise and hassle that the scrotes don't want, so they'll hopefully see it through the window and immediately decide to move on to an easier target.

Hmm... maybe this guy was a snake oil salesman in his last incarnation.

This guy, Yorkshire Autogas is absolutely brilliant and will give you all the advice you need. Most installers are just that, installers. They are only qualified to work on certain systems and they get these systems as a kit of parts from the manufacturer and just follow the instructions. It's a bit like 'painting by numbers' or building a Lego model. They know that Part A goes here and connects to Part B and so on, but that's about it. On the other hand, Simon at Yorkshire Autogas knows and understands the science behind it all and he works out what is the best system for the car in question. Instead of a kit of parts and 'painting by numbers' he will often work out a bespoke system, mixing and matching components from manufacturers so that he's sure to get the best performance possible. He's very reasonably priced and very neat and tidy in his work. The first photo below is the conversion he did on my RX300. I don't know who did the other two conversions but I'm certainly glad I got Simon to do mine and not one of the other installers!

Which variant of Goodyear?

Given that I live up in Lancashire, I'm afraid I don't. However, I firmly believe in using the 'right' trade, so rather than a general garage/mechanic I'd be looking for an auto-electrician to do the job. The "under 1 volt" would suggest to me a bad and/or corroded connector somewhere. You need to look at the wiring diagrams to see where the connectors are and the route of the loom. I'd also persevere with trying to find the flasher unit because it's in there somewhere. You need to lie on your back and get your head right under the dash then point the torch upwards and you'll see it there

Silly question, I know, but are you absolutely certain that the bulb is alright? Just because it's new doesn't mean that it can't be faulty. The flasher unit is a bimetallic strip that is designed to work with a certain current flow and the faster flash rate is an indication that a bulb is out or some other problem exists, nine times out of ten which will be with the bulb itself or the socket it plugs into. Do you have a multimeter so that you can check for voltage and continuity? If not, you need one - you can't do electrical fault-finding without one. You can buy a basic one for under a tenner and go up from there, so they're not expensive and once you have one it can come in handy for lots of things in the future. The following diagrams are for a LHD vehicle so you have to imagine the location on a RHD car.

Yes I did and it was quite straightforward. If I didn't need to extend the wiring harness I reckon it could have been done within an hour.

I got a Grom Vline2 for my RX so it'll be interesting to see what you make of the Lexion.

Yes, but only for the infotainment system, not the whole car, just like messing with shock absorbers wouldn't affect the warranty on the engine.

Used to be but if I remember correctly, not by Relax.

Yes, at least a grand I think. The individual LEDs aren't replaceable as the whole thing is a sealed unit.

Either you're getting your terminology wrong or you're getting wrong information because that just doesn't make any sense. A power pack is a battery (such as the jump start power packs) and there are definitely no power packs in the car apart from the 12V battery, the high voltage traction battery, and a small back-up battery for the alarm system. I'm assuming you mean ECUs, not power packs, in which case that would indeed make more sense. If you read back through the topic it seems to be that the tailgate ECU does suffer from low temperatures and dampness and, in worst case scenario's, needs to be replaced.

I don't think it's a matter of being taught to reverse in or otherwise, it's just what is the easiest in any given situation and that, due to physics and geometry, usually means reversing in. I've always found it much easier to reverse in but since my wife's arthritic knees have made the use of a mobility scooter necesary, I often have to drive in so that it's easier to get the scooter out of the boot.

It really grinds my gears when people don't bother to tell us the outcome

You can probably download the manuals from https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals The infotainment/satnav systems have always been the Achilles Heel of any Lexus car.

Cheers Piers, and the same to everyone else too

True, and I appreciate that, along with the fact that the OP of this topic wasn't looking for repair advice but rather just asking if anyone else had had the same problem as his wife had just encountered. I'm just being realistic in that to give proper, meaningful answers we need as much information as possible and reading the OBD (which stands for OnBoard Diagnostics) error codes is the best starting point in 95% of cases.

Well, first of all, OBD readers can be bought for about £20 and upwards these days, so not very expensive at all and well worth having one 'just in case'. Secondly, why bother asking for advice if you haven't got the tools and/or the knowledge to act on any advice given. I'm not talking about this post in particular but lots of posts, especially those asking for help with electrical problems, seem to come from people who lack even a simple multimeter (can get one for under a tenner) or the tools required. Given the complexity of modern cars I'd say that an OBD reader and a multimeter are as basic and as important to have as a set of spanners. EDIT: - Forgot to say that even if you don't have your own OBD reader then almost any garage anywhere will gladly read the codes for you.

Perhaps naming the garage will prevent others from having problems in the future? This is a good place for pump refurb https://www.carparts-direct.co.uk/power-steering-pumps