Greisingel

Check for leaks. There's hundreds of threads on the problem generating P0AA6 isolation issues. And Britain has been very wet of late

Lot of rain recently? 400s like to leak. I had the same. Had to use plumber's mastic to seal up. You can get Techstream easily enough. If happens again then it's the beginning of a need to detect. Could be any number of things.

Yes. I did it without dismantling the entire front of the car...as videos will tell you. But if you have Sonny Liston's hands you won't have a choice. You have to budge over the fusebox on the passenger side. Battery out palaver on driver's. You can access the aperture with some wriggling around. You have to release and reload spring loaded clip. You can see the clip 'horns' in pic below. The HID slots in so you know it has seated. But you have to make sure you're holding it correct as you go in. Use a strong LED light to illuminate area. Prepare hands for scratches, bruising and to an observer, you will appear a peculiarly angry person shouting and swearing, bent double, arm deep inside the car bay. Goof luck

Yup all standard 400 idio-syncrasies. Heater issues – check you have correctly filled your radiator – or look for leaks. Airlocks? Dip down wings when reversing is a kerb watching feature

Check your calipers. I occasionally strip the brake housing – ensure high quality pads and rotors (and check they are not warped). Ensure the sliders are clean and correctly greased. (Just getting the basics right). It is true that the 400 has some slightly peculiar braking tendencies. One such is the sudden seeming and unwanted release of the brake while you are depressing to slow. It is momentary but slightly unnerving when coming up to someone's trunk. You get used to it.

Maybe keep a battery jump starter in the car. This might control exactly the input amperage. From the Jump Starting - Lexus RX400h Towing And Road Service Manual JUMP-STARTING: The Lexus RX400h has one battery which is located under the hood. It is positioned on the right (passenger's) side of the engine compartment behind the right front headlamp assembly The RX400h uses the high voltage system to start the gasoline engine. If the 12 volt battery is discharged, the high voltage system does not function so there may be the need to jump-start these vehicles. The following jump-starting procedures should be followed when rendering assistance to a Lexus RX400h: • Never use jump-starting equipment that can exceed normal 12-volt charging system voltage. • Ensure that all electrical accessories and the ignition switch are turned OFF before connecting jumper cables or a jumper box to the discharged vehicle. • If using jumper cables, make connections in the following order: 1. Connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive battery terminal of the discharged vehicle and to the positive (+) battery terminal of the donor vehicle or jumper box. 2. Connect the negative (-) jumper cable to the negative battery terminal of the donor vehicle. (Skip this step if using a jumper box.) 3. Connect the negative (-) cable to a good ground on the engine of the discharged vehicle. NOTE: You may have to remove the decorative engine cover to access a good connection location. Allow the discharged battery to charge for a few minutes before attempting start the vehicle. Since the high voltage system actually starts the gasoline engine, there may not be any "cranking" that takes place. The computers on this vehicle decide whether or not the gasoline engine needs to run to charge the high voltage battery which in turn charges the 12 volt battery through a connection in the system's inverter/converter assembly. The RX400h usually moves at low speeds and in reverse under electrical power only.

Yes its the form work that needs a professional touch. I can drop spots easily enough. But cutting and shaping the plates...hmm took me back to my school metal work days and the D – I usually got.

2017? You did pretty OK with 6 years. 👍

Get TIS on it. Could be wet Hybrid battery. Has been pretty wet recently. Thing about Hybrid engine is that is often off when running heating. So long as it is in park you're ok. Yes, make sure the aux battery is well charged.

Just out of interest how do you do the adjustment? Assume say on a 400 as a 350.

Yes, have to say that my new 6000K HIDs dippeds are still pretty crap. Replaced 18 year old rubbish pee stain 4000s. I wonder if I can use LEDs that would plug into the socket coming out from the ballast box?

Bizarre. My 55 plate RX400H was in London on Sunday. Paid congestion charge. No ULEZ. States exemption on tfl site.

You could try going through a forum. I taught myself basic MIG welding (you can pick up a welding machine for less than £300) in a bid to save my old BMW E39 540i, which as it turned out was too far gone rust-wise. We're going back 8 years now (how I miss my V8...rust bucket) But the guys'n'gals on this site were very helpful and one offered to help if I got the car to him. Cash in hand etc etc. And he had photographs of the work he was doing on an old VW camper whose metal frame work was rust swiss cheese ie he was talented. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

Good quality 60W XENONS at the 6000 - 6500 kelvins range I find are reasonable. The real problem is that really the car needs 2 dippeds at each side. Was a hand wrecking job winkling them into place – it's an improvement on the old 4000K faded HIDs that looked like they had been on my 2005 400 since the get go. It is not perfect – when I compare myself with the near blinding LED beams of other new cars (there has been official discussion as I understand it about getting the blinding glare of new car LED systems under some control) So, to augment, I will be updrading my fogs to very high spec LED HB4s. These do add a sweep of enhancing light to the dipped HIDs. Main beam – is fine – a yellow but decent glare 400K pair of HB3s.

RX400H rear suspension area creaking, graunching sound has started and getting worse when turning left or right. Rear trailing arms? Coils?

Any photos of offending article?

I use a .5A trickler overnight nearly daily after experiencing drain. It seems to keep everything stable. Parasitic drain somewhere. Did scrub up my ground points. And wire brushed my battery points and clasps. Went through all my fuses to check condition. AOK Made sure nothing was plugged into lighter sockets over night (I don't really know why)

Yes, pics. Would be helpful for others.

Never understand how advisories come and go year in year out between different UK testers. The reality is German GOV standards are stricter in most areas (it's the German way). Of course standards vary between testers – some are more scrupulous than others. I did ask for a UK MOT re-inspection a few years back as I was not convinced brake lines were "on the way out". Was told to fill out a VT17 and pretty much clear off if I disagreed. The small independent garage was a complete mess. Oil everywhere on the ground, what looked like miserable working conditions (in Winter) for staff – not good Testing I assume is in general getting more detailed as a result of increasingly complex engineering, electricals, ECUs, battery tech, sensors etc etc. I get that. I'd be interested to know which country's average car age is the newest. Certainly driving in Switzerland (their TUV is the apparently even more strict MKV) I was gobsmacked at the new-car/model prevalence on roads. At least here you'll get people like me driving 18 year old Toyotas. The MOT in the UK for me is more of an industry and less of a perfunctory safety test. Maybe its me but I don't trust the industry any more. And I take a buffers care of my car. I am sure you were a diligent MOTer. My problem is with the oversight. And I accept a ruling if the car is unsafe in any way so long as I feel it is certainly tested so. Quite interested to know more about https://www.carveto.co.uk/mot-check/council-centres/ I have no love for UK councils but there's no conflict of interest...ie a garage next door to the MOT test bay waiting to take on your repairs (without asking you, of course – not allowed to do that). https://automation.omron.com/en/ca/support/training/courses/tuv-functional-safety-engineer-certification-training-english

Far stricter. Regionally controlled. Entirely impartial. You won't have that nervous sensation as you take your car to a UK garage wondering whether you'll get unfairly stiffed.

The problem with MOTs and garages in general. Complete lack of standardisation mixed in with a dollop of taking the p*ss In Germany theu have the TÜV (Technischer Überwachungsverein). It's stringent – but very accurate (they actually measure things). While it can mean you can't wing it with a dodgy garage, by the same token, you cannot fail even if close (you'll get advised in a detailed report). There's no TUV here – instead an MOT centre attached to a garage – nice conflict of interest nonsense. The UK is what the UK is a rip off joint.

Yikes! I am crawling under my 2005 400H with cleaner, de greaser, and hammerite. That is quite scary. Do you live by the sea?

He still liked his vegetables murdered

Now that's no way to talk of the man who "knows more about manufacturing than anyone on the planet". Memorable moments: throwing rocks at the windows of that cheese slice joke truck of his.