H3XME

try adding extra 10k on both figures.. NA Autos are selling for ~20k. TT autos are 35ish and TT manuals are almost 50k lol.. I blame fast and furious! All of us growing up on those films wanted a piece of the JDM history and now the demand is crazy. I really wanted to buy a Supra (even NA Auto) when i was 17-18.. they were around 3k back then. 11 years ago! Insurance said no. But yeah, like anything else, I know i wouldn't of kept it for long enough to see some profit in it, but it would be nice to just to experience it for a bit, whereas now I made my peace with the fact ill never own one unless i win the lotto. 😄 Even my £450 V8 Soarer I bought 10 years ago is now worth £5000+ Prices have gone up 10x what they were 10 years ago on a lot of these JDM cars. RX7s, Skylines, Supras etc.. Your best savings accounts wouldn't generate that much cash haha. I'll be selling my green is250 in the next couple of months to buy another JZX100 Mark II as even those have gone up by roughly 2k since this time last year. I wanted to buy my old one back, but found out it ended up in Poland and the guy wants £13k for it 😄 bonkers! He wouldnt of paid more than 7k for it and i only paid 5.2k. And I'll most likely be buying another IS250 because what better daily to buy for under 2k 😄 that or GS300 but they seem to be in a rougher shape and a bit more crusty

This is going to be very fiddly with the bumper on and very easy with the bumper off. So it's up to you which path you decide to choose, but they are sprung, so you can't just easily pulled them out.

of course David, better fuel will not make a noticeable difference on regular cars. I say regular cars because some cars (predominantly high end sports cars) are factory tuned to run on 98+ and putting supermarket 95 octane will cause them to run sh*t. They adjust timing for that. The MPGs are the only really noticeable thing when using better fuel. Overall, better fuel is like additives, this is a preventative thing to do to ensure your engine is nice and clean many thousands of miles later. It's got better cleaning properties, it's good for all engines, but in terms of immediate performance only a handful of cars will benefit from it.

I really like the front end of the crown, but the rear & profile looks a bit like Renault Arkana 😕 Have you had a chance to see the new Prius? They can look very very good imo!

Shell V-Power and Tesco Momentum 99 are pretty much the same fuel. They are the best two you can buy in this country. I did a lot of reading recently on this and overall Momentum99 came back with fractionally better results purely due to consistency. V-Power is not as consistent in terms of quality as 99Momentum. But like I said the difference was a fraction. So both equally as good! I used to fill up V-power but since I moved places I no longer have Shell anywhere nearby, so 99Momentum it is! Car is happy, MPGs are better compared to E10 so I say it's a no brainer. Generally speaking the worst fuel is at Asda. Asda E10 is horrible.

As someone who worked for Liqui Moly, I can truthfully say that additives make a big difference, BUT only if they are used as a preventative measure. People often turn to additives when it's too late and expect them to do miracles. This applies to all cars, diesel and petrol.

@is250newbie yeah this is a good point that Linas mentioned. I only swapped, now two sets, of IS300h seats into my 250 but both were manual as they let you sit a little lower than electric ones. It would definitely be possible to get everything working with some basic electrical skills. You have the same amount of wires for both 2006 and 2014 (maybe even 2018) if both are equipped with memory etc. You just need to cut the connectors and swap them onto the new seats because the shapes vary slightly. I think the only plug & play wire is passenger side heating and both front seat belt buckle sensors. Airbag, memory, movement & driver's side heat is different shape connector (same amount of pins at least).

Short answer, sell it. I do 63 miles commute 4x week. 4-5 miles on regular roads and the rest on the motorway. I average 35-36mpg in my IS250 manual. Went to Ponterfact on Saturday, it's 198 mile round trip for me. Came back with 41.1mpg average. That's with a little bit of crawling on the A38 going towards Burton and some town driving before I reached the main road / motorway so..

Managed to take a few pics on Monday. The colour isn’t 100% but I’m still waiting for the 2k clear coat I ordered. @BkS someone I know imports parts in containers and sometimes he gets 2IS stuff.. I had 4 of these lips on order so I can re-sell but unfortunately the other 3 got damaged in transit. If you need something just drop me a message and I’ll see if it’s possible to bring it over. I think that atm he’s only got a bonnet and a flat bottom carbon steering wheel.

The rear end is nearly finished. Can't wait to get it painted all tomorrow.

Not that it matters in OP's case, but I can confirm you will scrape on your arch liner before you scrape on the chassis. This is why it needs cutting out or trimming when lowering the car to a point where it looks lowered. In fact my wheel managed to rub through the top of my arch liner and through the window washer pipe before, so be careful. "Play stupid games, win stupid prizes"

Just please use this calculator: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=40&diameter=18&wheelwidth=8.5&offset=50&width2=225&aspect2=40&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=8.5&offset2=30 The link is already setup for 245/40R18 18x8.5 ET50 (factory rear sizes) & 225/40R18 18x8.5 ET30 (which is what you get with 20mm spacers) "Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 20mm further away from the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 20mm more than before." Good 225s are more than enough for an IS250. Square setup is the way to go when you're not pushing 400hp. Don't forget the base model is250 with 16" wheels came with factory 205/55R16s all round.. And this is a controversial opinion, but people who put anything bigger than 245s on this car need to learn to how to drive this car because those bigger tyres won't keep you on the road any better. If 225s can't keep you on the road, it's driver error. Over-tyring is a common problem and it actually hurts the cars performance.

Rogue Motorsport in Rugby are heavily into Toyota cars. Maybe hit them up and see what they say / if they can fit you in.

I see. Thanks Vlad!

It wouldn't be unusual. My secondary cats died at ~140k on my last IS250. De-cat time! Secondary decat will let you pass emissions if it's tested hot.

Yes it can cause a variety of issues if the O2 sensor is reading incorrectly due to the blow. O2 sensor spacer? I presume by that they mean blanking it off, so you'll get rid of the code, but that doesn't fix the issue.. Take it to an exhaust shop and have them look for a hole and get it fixed. Should be cheaper than a new O2 sensor. Mine did the same thing a couple of weeks ago, I got bad blow coming somewhere from the under my feet, sounds like its near the secondary cats which is near the O2 sensor so I'm going to get mine fixed too.

Do you live around Tipton by any chance? Think I saw your car there before 😄

Hard to say, but 3 years and 50,000 miles later still fine.

http://justjap-imports.co.uk £7800 for 64k Miles is decent but the seats aren't cloth. They're microsuede. Cloth seats were on base specs. Mine came with this microsuede and they are so soft and comfy it's ridiculous. Just shame it's not black. Just for the sake of doors and seats I wouldn't bother buying one from Japan.. I'd just buy black seats from a UK car for £150

It is bizarre given the LBX has a longer wheel base specifically for that reason they said.

Do you think it could be possible that you're feeling that way because it was LHD? We rented a Kia ProCeed estate when visiting Europe a couple of months ago and I too felt very "cocooned" when driving, but I think it was because I was sitting on the wrong side of the car because it certainly isn't a small car. As for the legroom in the LBX, I'm not surprised tbh. This is a perfect Urban Cross-Over as per today's demands.. Not my cup of tea, I'd never go out of my way to own an SUV or Cross-Over but if someone likes it, then I think it would be good solution for town driving, doing a school run etc. I'd consider it for my other half. It's by no means a family car but I'm sure it's got a place in the market. A lot of Lexus clientele are people aged 50+, they want and can afford something nice and well built but don't need anything too big.. I think it will be a good selling car in the UK if prices would start just under 30k

yeah 100% not SE-L

My bad, my 2008 was just an SE, not SE-I. I agree, the "Sport/SR" trims should have something to be more "sporty" but in reality it had nothing to my knowledge. If anything it was basically a sport model. SR had the lip kit and spoiler at least. My '06 sport has nothing. It's like a base spec car. No, there was a handful of early facelifts available in manual (one for sale atm - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202304276736918 ) so it wouldn't be just a case of them registering it late, it was made as a proper facelift. Yea, it is annoying.

No no, my £625 quote was clutch & labour included. Clutch on its own is ~£300, but I know what you're saying. Hmm, I don't know. This is the first time I hear this. I have 2006 Sport now, and the black one was SE-I and it's exactly the same. No idea about SR, I would be surprised, but I suppose it's possible. It's like the LSD speculations. Some people say that no 2IS had LSD. Some people say say only 2010+ cars had it as an optional extra etc.. In my experience, every UK manual I've come across had a factory Torsen LSD. I've come across only one Automatic with LSD, so I would say that it's very rare and 90%+ Automatics have open diffs, but with manual I'd say most if not all UK manuals have LSD. I don't know how people try to find out, but the best way to find out is by doing a burnout. Only one wheel spins if it's open. Both wheels spin if it's LSD and you can check the tyre marks to be 100%. I'd suggest doing this on a patch of grass or when it's wet so you don't put unnecessary strain on your gearbox, especially if the car is fitted with factory size rear tyres😬 As for trying a power slide out of a corner - It's very difficult to tell if it's Open diff or LSD because even if it's open diff, it may feel like it's going sideways when in reality only 1 wheel spins. Stock suspension & big tyres don't help the case because the Torsen diff isn't anything amazing - it can be very temperamental (almost dangerous if you don't know what you're doing) because it will open and close depending on the amount of torque you send to the rear wheels. This LSD works the best when you have a foot to the floor because you're sending 100% of the torque down which is forcing the diff to lock. My car will drift a roundabout just fine now because it's lower, stiffer and on skinnier tyres - all of that helps to lock this LSD, but when it was stock it would struggle / wouldn't lock. So I understand where this confusion is coming from, but the only way to find out and be 100% sure is like I said above.. do a burnout and check tyre marks.

Agreed on the fact that auto is perhaps more suited for this car, it's not really sporty by any means in a stock form. Clutch job is £625 (just had a quote last week). Dual Mass Flywheel doesn't need changing typically - this depends on mileage and how it's been driven. They will tell you to change the DMF too just to get more money from you but if there are no heat spots or anything, there's no reason to replace it. My last 250 had its first clutch changed at 140k miles. DMF was still good on it and had it until almost 180k miles - no issues. However, DMF is around £1k from Lexus and that's the only place you can buy one, IIRC. Solid flywheels are ~£500-600 but I'd only consider this for sportier driving or whatever you wanna do with the car if you don't mind extra vibration. DMF reduces vibrations. The gearing is not weird on the petrol at all. Having driven both, manual and auto, you can drive exactly the same (5th gear at 30mph etc), the only difference is that manual petrols have 3.9 final drive which results in 2500RPM at 70mph in 6th gear which is roughly 300rpm higher than auto, but it also means it accelerates slightly better.