Barry14UK

Not much in this that we didn't know already but perhaps more people will now be aware of this type of theft and hopefully somebody will spot theft 'during the act' leading to the thieves being caught. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7744581/New-breed-thieves-steal-catalytic-converters-car-minutes.html

That video highlights the problem caused by inadequate infrastructure. Of course a heavy car is going to need a lot of battery power. Maybe with battery advances longer distances between charges will be possible with the possibility of just exchanging battery packs for fully charged ones in a rack as I have seen in another country. Also Americans overall have longer journeys so not surprising need more charges rather than just using facilities at home or at work. I note that battery powered motor cycles are now being produced and there is even a race in the IOM for them. So ICE motor cycles will also be affected in due course like our cars.

If you buy good quality premixed windscreen wash the blocking of jets should be minimized. If mixing your own, try to avoid hard water because calcification can lead to block jets. I would suggest if this happens to remove the jets and flush through with fairly hot (rather than scalding water) with a touch of liquid detergent. One of those dental water picks that squirts a pulsed jet through the jet could be tried.

A good car is worth the wait. This might take quite a time, particularly if you are limiting yourself by colour, trim, mileage and price etc. Lexus being more exclusive than other marques, even premium ones, it's likely that you may have to travel further to get what you really want. Happy hunting!

One of the reasons why I bought an RX was because Lexus has a very good reputation for reliability but things do sometimes become defective and of course things wear out just as they do on any car. I have not yet fully established where the vulnerabilities are with the RX but it is clear that air suspension where fitted can be a problem in time and I would imagine the suspension components generally on such a heavy car could be an item requiring replacement in due course. Underside rust prevention also seems to be worth doing before it becomes a major problem. I do have a 2001 E39 BMW 530iSE which I bought in 2006 or 2007 (from memory). It has now some 100K miles on the clock. As a member of a BMW forum I became aware of the short comings with the model which largely center round the cooling system. So I proactively fitted a new water pump, thermostat, radiator and expansion tank. The auto transmission fluid was changed at about 70K miles. I changed the "hedgehog" (Final Stage resistor, a common problem) and control arms and drop links which do suffer early wear. The car let me down once when a convoluted rubber air pipe split and caused an engine warning light to come on. A drop of superglue and some insulating tape helped me complete a 200 mile plus journey before replacing the pipe. Headlamp adjusters now need replacing because the Hella ones become brittle and break over time but replacement adjusters are available and will be fitted although it's an intricate job but saves buying complete new headlamps. Other replacements have really been service items plus the need to replace some sections of slightly rusted brake pipe. The car has all the really worthwhile features of the RX and the central display even has a TV mode which can be upgraded to work with current transmission format if wanted. The leather interior is very good. There are no rattles, the car handles drives and brakes very well and there is a full sized spare wheel. If it was not for a back problem I would be more than happy to just have this car. I am sure that even if I had had my services done by BMW these would have been less than Lexus would have charged to service an RX. Incidentally, I am breaking another 2001 E39 for the sports parts which have largely been transferred over to my standard E39 by choice and I am very impressed by the build quality. It seems to me that those that knock BMW either have not owned one or don't know how to properly maintain them.

An advisory on the MOT on the car I bought at circa 37K miles mentioned there was 'wedging' on the rear tyres and I noticed there were small cracks developing in the sidewalls of the Dunlops too. Somebody else also reported on the wedging but otherwise wear was quite uniform. I replaced the Dunlops with Michelin Cross Climates which have greatly improved the ride but it is too early to know how they will wear. (My car has air suspension which could also have a bearing). I took the opportunity of having a full alignment check anyway and would certainly recommend this if contemplating buying a car with uneven tyre wear with the understanding any remedial work required would be undertaken as a condition of purchase.

One possibility could be a rolling scrappage scheme as vehicles reach a certain age. I know some very good cars were scrapped in a previous National time limited scheme in the UK and think there will be incentives for owners to change at some stage. So perhaps a carrot and stick attitude by Government as a drive to reduce emissions. (It is appreciated that producing electricity is not entirely without use of fossil fuel as things are presently but battery powered cars help) The question is implicit in the start of this thread, ie about how willing people will be to continue to buy new petrol/diesel/hybrid cars before very long and the effect this might have on the value of current IC cars.

We know that some manufactures plan to stop building solely petrol and diesel engined cars before long. Also, with improved battery technology and development of electric cars and more widespread availability of charging, I wonder for how much longer it will make sense to buy a new IC engined car or even a hybrid one. Manufacturers are about to release quite a number of battery only new models and already there are early generation ones on the used car market. These will undoubtedly sell better as charging facilities and availability, range and choice improves. Of course Petrol/Diesel stations will still be operating for many years. However, I think that before very long IC powered cars will suffer heavy depreciation. This could result in purchasers buying a top of a range car at bargain basement price. However, would you be deterred from buying a new car in the next three or so years time realizing it may suffer very heavy depreciation when you change? There is also the strong possibility that owners of IC cars will be further penalized by Government. Remaining manufacturers could find it uneconomical to continue to produce IC cars as demand drops off. Anybody had any thoughts on this subject?

That looks a nice car. I prefer the rubbing strip which breaks up the large expanse of metal doors but this seems to have gone out of fashion - weight/cost saving on later models? Like others, look forward to seeing pics of your replacement and hope you are very happy with it.

Thank you Herbs. I will do as you have done but use the alternative festoon bulb, the one you fitted being no longer available. I assume the fade down will be as before, although this is not critical.

Thank you for your confirmation and posting pic which speaks for itself about difference made. Do you think that if I removed my existing main bulbs and took them to Halfords they could provide replacements or using any markings on present bulbs I could order from somebody specializing in bulbs? Also, does it just involve a direct replacement or does a resistor or whatever have to be fitted? No doubt this is obvious to someone with your electronic experience but for some of us we would have to check.

I find it fiddly too. Also, allied to this, I find the main internal light rather dim. I wonder has anybody maybe upgraded with LED's - assuming existing conventional bulbs or tubular type?

Body seals can harden over the years and also seize to frames in winter. I have had to use warm winter to free off before now and when this was not possible and had to open had some of the rubber left on a door frame on previous car, so along with helping squeaking helps with two problems. Thanks for recommendation - have placed order today.

Colour is very much a subjective thing and more important to some than others. Some years ago I read an article that said dark blue cars were statistically most at risk of being involved in an accident which didn't surprise me, because the driver who T boned me in my dark blue very long Fiat 3200 (130) Coupe claimed not to have seen me. I can't believe other dark cars would be better in this respect but have not researched any figures recently. Car colour is important to me and I have mostly had Silver cars because I not only like the colour but it hides dirt well and I am not somebody with a sponge/leather frequently in my hand. I do like the very light blue found on some Mini's and the Messa Red on some RX's. I do wonder how the red would be after time though as in general on other cars at least, it's the most severely faded car colour you see on the road. There is no doubt that some cars look better in certain colours than others and can influence sale price and down the line purchasers preference. There is also a matter of what is fashionable. Certainly agree grey is in vogue at present, even in bathrooms! Enjoy many safe miles in your new ride.

I suppose most people rely on the dark tinted rear and side windows. Perhaps the gap is shown up more because you have cream seats and rear parcel cover. My cover is black so gap less obvious. Strange though it will seem , my parcel shelf that came with the car was lying loose on the boot floor and when I tried to fit it I couldn't because it was for a HONDA!! Lexus Cheltenham subsequently provided replacement. Anyway, point of mentioning this is to say that the Honda one has several adjustable clips along the rear edge that must engage with a transverse tube behind the rear seats or maybe to a fitting in each back seat of their car. On the Honda the cover must stretch far enough forward to enable this I would think. It would be difficult even for an upholsterer make anything that would harmonize I think, whilst maintaining versatility of seats and not mark them. At the same time you would have to consider whether any modification might draw attention and expectation that you had something easily marketable hidden beneath. If of any interest I can send some pics as Lexus didn't want the Honda one back and I have not got round to putting it on ebay yet!

Grey!! Looks like you got a nice car otherwise - just teasing.

Would have been more helpful to the lady in video if those filming and laughing at her, seeing she was at a loss, had put her right!

Don't know what resources the Police are putting into ending this form of theft but maybe some (more ?) 'bait cars' observed by police and when culprits found hopefully they will get hefty sentences (or be deported where applicable). Such cases would need to be widely publicized in the hope it would deter others. Maybe insurers could exercise pressure on the Police to be more proactive. d

Hi Barbara, Sorry you have fallen foul of these scumbags. The first thing you have to decide is how you are going to deal with this. The cost of fitting a genuine replacement will be high and you might have to wait because there is likely to be a back order from Lexus meaning quit a wait. If you claim on your insurance the chances are that your premium will be loaded on renewal. The alternatives then are that you have a length of pipe fitted to replace the cat for permanent or temporary use. This is illegal. Otherwise you could get a cheaper aftermarket cat fitted and if you wish help secure this by one of the protective devices mentioned in this thread. If you park in the same place regularly the thieves may target you again. No device will guarantee that your cat will not be stolen but because this is literally a cut and run crime any device fitted may make the thieves leave your car and move to an easier target. Let us know how you get on.

not a difficult job to slacken off road wheel bolts slightly, jack wheel and fully remove bolts and wheel, disassemble caliper, remove pads, remove any rust from pins and contact surfaces. when all clean and appropriate rubbing parts lightly greased with recommended type, reassemble, I would do all 4 calipers to get smoothest braking and longest use out of pads an rotors. Always a good idea to tighten wheel bolts to manufacturers specified torque working in an opposite pattern as far as possible rather than in a circular pattern. This assumes rotor. pads and pins are in serviceable condition, otherwise replace as necessary while parts disassembled. There must be plenty of videos on this should you need more detailed help.

LED's are more reliable but seems an expensive exercise if you need to change them. then. Is it likely in your case or is it just a case of adjustment?

Wow! Does it reside in a forest?

Supplying spare parts contributes greatly to the profit of manufacturers, If manufacturers can get parts made cheaply elsewhere they will do so. I remember on a W124 Mercedes I had in the late nineties the under bonnet loom degenerated to the point I was getting a bad misfire. I was told it was made in Poland and was known to fail. Also,even back then some Mercedes components were being made made in China. I don't know whether Lexus buy in parts from China but being aware that Chinese tend to make anything they can sell, it comes as no surprise to me that they will make a version of Lexus parts. Some of what is made in China is very good, I was surprised how good some HS drill bits I bought were but some stuff is very inferior. I remember buying what was ostensibly a North Face jacket from a large Government supported store we were expected to attend as part of a tour of China. It was cheap, and on close examination the material and stitching showed it was not genuine. Maybe they have improved in recent years but I would not automatically accept everything they sell as aftermarket products is of the same quality as sold by major manufacturers, even if the OE parts were made in China. Having said that, the difference in price of the level adjuster as detailed in this thread would probably tempt most people with an older car go that way, even if the part might not be so long lasting.

When I asked Lexus Birmingham about the price our member was quoted 4 weeks previously they said that special offer had ended and I would be looking at about the price that Snows Group have them advertised for which is £354.99 delivered. I think I got them at around £300 delivered from Lexus Direct, They waived the delivery charge as I bought cross bars too. I note that there are some used ones here for the moment but with several watchers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303360994135 Should you get second hand ones ensure you get the longer bolts that are required to fit them. (These are included with new ones) From previous thread on same subject:- Posted September 16 Somebody on the forum mentioned that he got a heavily discounted pair from Lexus Birmingham in June. When I finally got though to them on the 3rd occasion in July and a week apart, having been told they would ring me back but didn't, they said the offer had ended and the rails were at a much higher price, I contacted 'Lexus Direct' (who sometimes put in an appearance on this forum) and they agreed to post a pair to me for the inclusive price of £300. and it hopefully stil on their website This is quite a bit cheaper than the normal price. (Lexus Exeter have them on ebay for circa £350 pounds for example. If you do get a pair, here are a couple of tips. The instructions are all in symbol form and these suggest you bin certain parts you have to remove but I suggest you retain these. If the next purchaser of your car does not wish to have these rails, you can then easily remove them and reinstate the original bits you removed, as so many people want these rails.you will find a buyer. Another tip is to fit the undersides of the plastic - yes plastic, (cheap skates) end covers before offering up to fix, as trying to spring these in after bolts could stress the plastic. The tops then snap into place

In the past I have used a combination of vacuum and compressed air and knocking them to clean air and pollen filters if they look pretty fair and never had a problem. Of course there comes a time when they have to be replaced.