BC99

My friend sent me one of these videos, just laughing at the cars getting written off, i didn't spot the IS. It's one of those things where i'd love to give it a try, but common sense and lack of funds to be able to just risk car like that means wouldn't. I understand the theory of how to ford water, but it's no replacement for experience. The air intake for 250 is reasonably high up isn't it, being at the top of the front grill, although it enters the airbox (not airtight) lower than that. the sloped front probably doesn't help but just driving in at speed was never going to end well.

I read it was a difficult job, so i didn't even bother to look with the covers and intake pipe off, but looks no more difficult than any other (modern) car, as to whether the other bank is the same, but looks really straightforward will definitely have a look next time i'm under the bonnet to check the plugs have been replaced like they should have been.

Isn't the back up for if the car doesn't recognise the key in the car to hold the fob against the starter button? presumably though won't change things in your case as it's recognising the key.

I'd avoid preformed sections if available from Lexus, whilst will probably last the remaining lifetime of the car will still corrode and probably not cheaper than replacing with ones made up from copper (or Kunifer as bernieeccles mentions) which will almost definitely last longer. Replacing could be a big effort though with the need to drop a few parts for access. With Brake lines, you can't always tell until they are off the car if they are still good, but by that point you may as well replace. That being said, that video i looked at briefly,looks good to me but i'm not overly familiar as judging these things.

I looked at the manual yesterday, the LP pump has two speeds. a Relay switches the current to pass either through or past a resistor. when starting it's supposed to be at the higher level (bypassing the resistor). I assume you've tried sitting with foot on brake (green light) for a longer period before hitting the starter. but then a longer cranking time should be enough to do that anyway. You mention earth issues are possible? in the wiring or with the components, earth them directly using a jump lead? There isn't a filter as such, it's part of the fuel pump in the tank, at least not on mine (2007) Could always disconnect maf to force into "safe" mode?

conclusively high pressure pump? The throttle body sits above the pump. That being said, does sound similar to what someone posted on another lexus forum here (if allowed to link to others) Seems like that was the high pressure pump... Can't quite get my head around it as it's driven by the camshaft rather than the electric pump that's under the rear seat, so faulty valve in it or something. With disconnecting battery i just wondered if the higher knock rating of fresh fuel would have made it more difficult to start on the learned settings that worked with stale stuff, but probably makes no difference.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes? Trying to think what that noise is, not the throttle body? pull the cover off the engine and see if it's that or something else. I can't help thinking it may be water related, do you have an OBD device to see if any new errors are being thrown up? Although could be the issue that lead to it being described as a non-runner and dodgy connection or something, perhaps the trailer trip shook things up enough to get it working.

Performance is adequate, although would really hope for more given the mpg, would be nice to try the 350 that was available in US. the car feels heavy though, well because it is... but any sort of spirited driving is generally limited also by the comfortable seats not being very hugging. 🤣 Automatic gearbox also limits things a bit. It's pretty unbeatable though for relaxed cruising though, especially on motorway. Just eats up the miles and not tiring at all.

Can't guarentee, but this parts website seems to suggest that it is. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/lexus-europe/is250_220d/ALE20R/2907/engine/1302/13511 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1350126010

Should set up a group purchase of them to get the price down. I need mine replaced really, I'm looking to infinity exhausts perhaps, just off the M4 near Bath. i think no matter what, it's not going to be cheap. I don't want any more noise either, as much as i like a loud exhaust at times i enjoy and require my lexus to be quiet 90% of the time.

You are correct in what i was originally asking, but i was confused about it, and thankfully that pulley is fine. Your reply may be useful to others in future though knowing it's possible to get a replacement for that rather than replace the entire tensioner.

As both banks are affected i would have thought the MAF would be the issue to cause that, as both exhausts are seperate until after the sensors it'd seem. And an exhaust leak would have caused a lean mixture to be detected?

White cars looks amazing, when clean although I'm sure they show less dirt than silver cars. I use colinite 476s, gives nice result and lasts for ages. Slowly working my way around mine, panel by panel.

I can't imagine they're the same, boot struts seem less spindly than the bonnet from memory. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/6453053010 for the boot strut here, vs https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/534500w080 for the bonnet. Different part numbers, could ultimately just be different fixings. https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc2655-lexus-is300-boot-strut i fitted these no problem.

somehow damaged the MAF during cleaning? MAF sensors are 🤬 and don't always take kindly to being cleaned. Could just be relearning though after resetting.

Nice! How did you manage to fix the springs to make the bootlid pop open? on the boot struts?

Fuel pump was working fine, it was just the plastic top piece that seals it into the fuel tank had cracked. So no, no symptoms other than the fuel smell around the rear nearside door, which eventually developed to actually dripping. removing fuel cap was still accompanied by air movement. I think the fuel pump retaining ring rusting and the expansion of it had lead to the plastic being stressed leading to cracking.

My fuel pump picked a great time to split and start leaking. Although there had been a fuel smell for quite a while but i couldn't track it down. Fitted a used replacement now, ideally would have got just a replacement top piece for the pump but couldn't find a part number. hopefully should last the rest of the life of the car anyway.

I replaced my air filter recently, which i think was a denso which claims to have a 4 year life(?)! with a K&N panel filter i picked up cheap. I noticed the growling from it when using the cruise control on the motorway when came to a hill, which isn't really something i want. Doesn't seem appropriate for such a grandad car! I've not done many miles and the filter certainly appeared very clean, but was uncertain as to it's age, and didn't realise it was an extended life filter until replaced it. Not noticed any change in MPG though.

Does that wheel get especially hot after being driven, compare to passenger side, if so it suggests binding. I presume discs aren't excessively lipped, has the condition of the flexible brake hose been assessed?

Tested the Alternator pulley by turning the pulley while blocking the air cooling fins, and there seemed to be resistance to turning in both directions, but in both directions it slipped slightly if force added. Ordered a new pulley, which went to fit today, upon removing the dust cap of the old one there was a lot of rust and dust in there. managed to remove it using Laser tools 6750 kit, it uses a 17mm internal hex on the pulley and the shaft on the alternator uses a 10mm external hex to hold steady. Upon fitting the new pulley it becomes clear that the new one i had whilst would go on ok it is not possible to grip the alternator shaft should it need removal in future, so i presume i have the wrong one, and whilst presumably the pulley should be good for another 100,000 miles knowing my luck it wouldn't. The old pulley now seems to have freed itself off with the penetrating oil i used to remove it and which cleared out all the dirt and rust that had gathered under the cap. So for now i have put that back on, i'm hoping this should be ok for the time being, does seem to run smoother now so will see how it goes in the short term before fitting a correct pulley, i was concerned the alternator itself was at fault, but pretty confident it is fine.

Right, looked again the pulley last night and noticed that the idler pulley did look to be the new one, not the tensioner pulley, but also that there was play in the pulley when wiggled, no sign of play in the tensioner pulley. Today took the pulley off just to be sure and it was the new one, which it was, swapped it over for the time being, but the play seems to be between the bolt and the pulley. I'm going to replace the bolt and see if that improves things, might as well fit new belt too just to be sure, but hopefully will solve things. Although just seen it has an alternator decoupler... Thanks for the help.

Hello. I replaced my water pump at the beginning of the year, and at the same time i bought two SKF pulleys (SKF VKM 61025) to replace the two plain Pulleys, but they only fitted on the tensioner, fitting to the idler meant it did not turn, clearly a different offset. I figured not the end of the world and put the old one back on as figured it should be ok. Now with use it's got worse, perhaps not unsurprisingly. I for the life of me can not find a replacement for this pulley that does not seem to be the same one i already have which does not fit. I have searched and come across mentions of replacing the bearings in the pulleys themselves, which isn't something i can do myself so not particularly keen on this in case somehow the pulley is damaged in the process. Just to be clear, it is the one labelled below as PUL Can anybody please help. Many Thanks, James.