altezzaz

Do you mean ignition timing or how quick is it? 0-62mph is approx 7.5 to 7.7 seconds, not bad for a naturally aspirated 2 litre saloon!

As far as the fuel nozzle goes, turn the handle upside down and see how you get on

er no electric seats, but once it's set how often do you move it?

If your car has a cat then it will also have one or more "knock sensors" that will tell the ECU to retard the ignition on lower spec fuels - it means that you should be ok but the car won't be as powerful as on normal fuel.

Matt didn't you say that the Tom's kit was a bit dodgy? As for which kit to go for, how much playing do you want to do - a little every now and then to up the spec or ready to go and only off the road the once?

So presumably you can get the 3 litre manual, too? Not thinking of myself as I doubt I'll change before middle of next year, mind.

Like mine... :D

Best bet for the switch would be to find a breakers yard with an IS - that way you can have a play and it won't cost too much. As far as the restrictor goes, you could see if there are any helpful airfields nearby...

I can't help on the Altezza caps, but I do have a spare set of Lexus ones if that helps?

woohoo, beat Zee to this - try www.tuneacar.co.uk - they are advertising it at about 3500 plus fitting. Have a look under superchargers on the left hand side

Whoa, whoa, VVTi is not the kick you get in the backside - quite the opposite; it works to change the times that the valves open - this means that the torque is improved across the rev range. The kick you get at 4500 is when the second set of valves (8 and 8) start to work at maximum efficiency - each set is designed to work at different engine speeds to give a wide range of power. That's probably a rubbish explanation, I'm sure someone else can do that in English... but it explains why the car feels like its pulling strongly at about 2500 rpm and again at 5k - it's where the 2 sets of valves are working best.

Don't you guys work?

Ok, here goes... there are 2 stereo fixings to fit the UK spec IS - the S radio has an inbuilt amplifier and will not fit the SE or Sport, which have an amplifier built into the car - I know 'cos I've tried... Next thing - some RS have the amp and some don't.. not sure on the rhyme and reason on this. The way to tell is to open the glovebox and peer into the front wing - the amp is a silver box mounted towards the door end of the wing. The good news is that if the amp is there, the Se radio will go straight in without changing the fixings, but when they cost 650 quid new, it might be worth looking around to see what else is available.

I'll see you there, then? Good job I've an idea where I'm going though, my directions are from Ipswich...

Yup, chuck me down as well, please

Not the best qualified to say, all I know is that the last few IS's I've had as courtesy cars have ridden better than my RS, so I suspect something's different (or perhaps my dampers are on the way out...)

Yup, I've got something like that - seems to make some noise when I'm braking and turning (not something I do on the road, I hasten to add). If I had the warranty I'd definitely get someone to check it out - the car doesn't do it from new so it has to be a problem.... I asked my dealer to sort it out about a month ago but they seemed a little laissez faire about it all.

My last one was a Fujitsu, can't say I've looked at this one all that closely, though.

When I sold my last car after 18 months it had 5 parking dents down one side and 4 on the other - but this one has been blemish free until yesterday when some g*t did 2 at once - in a vertical line. Any ideas how much it'll cost to get it bashed out?

That all depends - Kavey & I'll give you completely different replies... 1) I get between 32 and 35mpg, an IS is more like 28 2)RS gets 60 litres, IS 70 3)I've done as little as 350 or as much as 440 miles - will probably get about 420 out of this one 4) You're best running it on Optimax - makes the downshifts much more pleasant, but seeing as my nearest shell is 20 miles away I run mine on 95 more than I'd like without any problems - the car has 2 knock sensors anyway.

just below the vent air vents there's a split in the plastic (sorry, can't think of a better way of describing it) where two plates meet - you need to lever the upper part - includes the felt tray and the air vents upwards - as it starts to move you'll see two clips start to extend down into the heater control panel. Rotate the tray assemblage upwards until the clips disengage, then pull it towards you (assuming there are no screws to undo) to release the clips at the back.

woah, rude as you like!!! :D

Worked for me... I can't profess to have followed them to the letter as I left the print out in the house Have you had a go? For me all I had to do was prise the felt and air vents up out of the clips, pull the traction control panel out and unclip the electronics and get cracking with a socket.... What seems to be the problem?

Woah, I've been in there in jeans no worry... I did eat first though. Mate of mine was in there on saturday in trainers... you must have really upset someone.

It's actually very easy - I managed it, but you do have to be very careful, and it might be worth putting tape over the dash console just in case - there are some sharp edges on the cradle that supports the radio... You will need: A screwdriver and a 10 mm socket with extender bar, and a copy of the instructions in the workshop post.