legendswraith

i have never used any other OS other than windows, was tempted by linux once but i passed. If i could try using the mac OS on a normal pc i would but the rumours about a working one on a pc were sadly over stated. You say virus free but if the majority had macs then i am sure someone would have made a virus by now, however ihave an open mind about these things and i have heard lots of good things about macs. If you want to send me a powermac to try out i'd willingly oblige :D So what are the bad things coming along with vista then if you say "trainwreck"

Signed up for the windows vista test recently and have just got round to installing it. Been a bit of a swine to install it took 3 attempts in all. The biggest bug so far is i can't find vista support for my modem so i am waiting till updated drivers come out before i take it online. So far after a few quick browses it looks alot better than XP, it runs smoother and quicker and the games look better for some reason. There is one thing i have noticed that will smack of plagerism for the mac owners out there, i have found a folder called panther in the windows directory but as i have no experience with mac OS i can't tell if they look the same or what. I'll give it some time up and running before i make my final decision but at the moment i may upgrade when it is released proper

Turned the heater on in the car for the first time today and got nothing but cold air . At the minute al i can think of is if there is an actuator somewhere in the system thats failed. Everything else seems to work although its that cold i cant tell if the aircon is working. There are no other symptoms at all the only difference in my car is i am running an aristo controller rather than a GS one, However that seems to be functioning ok turns everything on and off and shows a temperature rise on the readout but there is no physical rise. If anyone has any ideas or prior experience before i swap back in my old controller or start hunting down the matrix actuator switch i would be grateful Cheers Austin

bet the leads have broken down change them and it will be ok mine was exactly how you describe when i changed my leads and didn't connect a lead properly

i have a spare passenger side glass somewhere when i got my mirrors from the US the old UK ones were different if i can find it you can have it (unless i threw it somewhere in a fit of rage when it didn't fit)

just another quickie for the Mk1 GS300 owners. ~Rather than remove the rear cluster to get at the brake live wire if yo look behind the plastic cover that runs across the boot there is the connection to the rear clusters from the main wiring. On the connection there is a red wire with a white line down it, connect to this to give the second live to the diodes You'll have to wait for pics i can't find my camera and the phone one is no good for this kind of thing

can see why though i have had a look in most newsagents around me when you have mentioned members cars but none of them stock it

Rip his arm off mate then pick another one up off ebay for less or a GS430 ;) Exactly!! - but if I went for another it would probably be a series 2 Vertex or a mint series 1 Aristo TT. I am going to mull it over. thats exactly what i would be thinking

Rip his arm off mate then pick another one up off ebay for less or a GS430 ;)

is this in hemel is it?

ok for the colourblind the red ones are not the blue ones. I've put all the panels back on now :duh:

Ok got fed up this afternoon and was reading through about the fog to brake mod so i had a bash at the GS and i have a set of extra brake light too now. For any mk1 GS owners who want to do it the instructions are the same as the ones for the IS but the wires you need are under the boot lid cover. Remove the boot lid cover then open up the conduit on the right hand side locate the plain red wires (note there are 2 sets of red wires you want the ones without the stripes running down). Chop the two wires and twist the ends together at the top and the bottom, crimp or solder the diodes in as per the IS guide and voila, you have fog/brake lights

look at your insurance i bet it has glass cover. If all else fails you can polish glass with micromesh but it takes a while

think it depends on the oxy sensor some of them you have to chop into the cable and splice if its a QEM one i would think it has the connector otherwise soak in penetrant and remove

Nonsense! This is a complete pile of rubbish, as well you know! And you, as a trader have a responsibility to ensure that your supplier provides you with genuine, fit-for-puprose goods! In addition, this completely invalidates any warranty. It's like going into Curry's to buy a washing machine......you pay for the product, it arrives at your house but it doesn't come with a serial number or manufacturer's papers? Where do you buy your products? From the guy around the back of the pub with the dirty white Transit van? I wonder what Trading Standards would make of your claims? You are on a very sticky wicket here....... In this case then is it right to assume that by removing serial numbers then you take responsibility for returns? Also depends if its electro chemical etched rather than vibro or stamped, removing an electro chem etch is easy enough without damaging the part. However if any part is being sold as a TDi part they can do whatever they want with it so long as it fits in with any running quality system. Problems only crop up when items are mis sold and are not fit for purpose.

i have a bumper for amk1 gs300 or do you mean a aftermarket one Hi How much are asking for it and where are you based? thanks so much chris I'm based in coventry area and i want 80 plus the postage for it unless you collect

i have a bumper for amk1 gs300 or do you mean a aftermarket one

remove the air box piping to the throttle body, then take off the throttle body 2x 12mm bolts at the top and 4x 12mm nuts on a bracket at the bottom. Put a rag under the throttle body as when you remove the coolant pipe it will leak, slide off the throttle body. Using a 6mm allen key undo the cover at the front and the back of the block this will expose the plugs and leads, then simply change the plugs. Denso Irridium IK16s for the GS.

all my cars lights are blue bar the speedo and that will soon be corrected, i even have another aircon controller with blue LED's ;)

21984

went past the camera again the other day the stretch of road is actually national speed limit which is 60 on a single carriageway if i am not mistaken, so i reckon i am well and truly inthe clear

i wasn't tailgaiting i was getting an aerodynamic tow the point i am trying to make is if the cameras are firing at 50 on the speedo, its widely known the speedo reads 10% over so they are not catching people speeding but those doing 50 on the clock the actual speed would be roughly 45mph therefore no offence has occured. Pedantic i know but i'm sure i am right and then every sppeding fine in the country can be overturned the goverment will be bankrupt there will be anarchy and i can take over ........ oops said too much

35-50 no where near that at all. The GS will be the first to be sorted as well :D I'm doing it to : Headlights - Block - Throttle Body - Manifold - Alternator - Transmission (possibly) but surely this will be applicable for the IS mate?? what kinda price are you looking at mate? :) It will when i get around to guinea pigging an IS for measurements and seeing how to connect to the battery terminal without replacing the original one. If i have to source a seperate negative battery connection it will drive the price up which is not the idea, i am hoping to connect straight onto the tightening bolt for the negative terminal

How much are you looking to spend? A word of warning though i had a disc break on me in my beemer and its expensive if you have to stop suddenly and get it done, you pay through the nose for some generic make. If its the fronts for about £260 you can get EBC grooved and green stuff pads a bit less than £200 for mintex discs and pads (not grooved etc) or prolex do some grooved passivated ones on the forum somewhere cheaper than EBC and another GS ownerhas rated them too

35-50 no where near that at all. The GS will be the first to be sorted as well :D I'm doing it to : Headlights - Block - Throttle Body - Manifold - Alternator - Transmission (possibly)