legendswraith

The only disclaimer i have is for aggressive Geo setups like road cars intended for Drifting, even then i don't give them a dedicated Drift setup. In truth this is the first complaint i've had where i stood back and said "no".... Things can and do go wrong when you are working on all manner of cars, and when they do i hold my hands up and deal with it. Fact was to install his coils we had to do something we've never done before ie: heat the top mount, ok it bent but it wasn't the damper shaft, only the thread that's exposed after the top mount lock nut so cosmetic. On the plus side another member from the MR2 owners club was there when Tony asked permission to heat the mount, and he has said the owner agreed. Just to add to the nastiness the owner said unless we satisfy his complaint he will post a "crash & burn" post in the MR2 forum... Fortunately the witness to Tony's request to heat the mount was one of the forums moderators. In response to that i'm quite sure the reputation you have could quite survive it and besides it would have been amusing to watch the amount of different forums that would queue up to fight your corner. I would imagine that the mr2oc will be trying to distance themselves from this guy as soon as, before they all get tarred with the same brush. Please tell me you kept the old damper as well

i'm coming down to get my geo done and then claim you used up all the smell in my air freshener :P

I think you have been overly reasonable tbh. The damper replacement was a good pr exercise not really needed but if you didn't explain it could have got bent with the heat then you gave them room to argue, bit of a 50/50 ball that one. As to the rest i think you bumped into a bit of a chancer and they got away with it this time. Under no circumstances should you have agreed to pay a rectification bill without seeing proof the work was done, as obviously you have had doubts yourself. Chalk it up to experience and be a bit more forceful next time

not really depending on which key you get. If you get one with the shell to put the original electronics in then it will work if you take it to a keycutter with a tibbe machine. If you get a transponder key then you'll have to follow the programming procedure. I cut my own spare not long ago and programmed it fine

Hi The way to get into the washer bottle and pump according to the Lexus workshop Manual is ; Remove the fender (Wing)liner.the front fastenings should be enough, this exposes the washer bottle There are three nuts holding it in position undo these and the bottle plus attached pump should come out. seperate the motor from the tank. to test the motor connect a positive lead from the battery to terminal 1 and a negative lead from the battery to terminal 2 if this does not operate the motor replace the motor. replace the reassembled unit in reverse of dismantle. If its the same as the GS300 the washer bottle motor is in front of the front wheel behind the splash guard. Just undo the spash guard then pull the motor out. New motors cost about £10. If you cant hear it motor over check the fuse first if thats intact get a new motor

i think you should buy her a tom tom and spend the rest on beer. Its alot to spend on something that will be outdated in 12-18months. On the other hand the ones i have seen are impressive and discreet when not left open.

hmm if i remember its toyota type 4 and if you are going to do it drain the box and refill it you'll thank yourself for it later. don't go and get any tranny fluid it can cause big issues. Also don't want to be a c*ck about it but theres tons about this on the forums worth searching may be more info there ;)

The rear wheel bearings on the 147 look like something a dc-5 should be landing on let alone a car. As long as you have a bearing puller you'll be fine but a can of spray nitrogen from a plumbing shop might make fitting them back on easier and make sure you get some ally drifts too no smacking them in with steel punches/screwdrivers etc ;)

If the subs the same on the GS300 jz147 i have one going ;)

you won't damage the paint they come up very easy just using finger pressure no need to grolly them off with a screwdriver ;) and if they are that blocked the pin method is a fail every time as it does'nt get rid of the debris jsut forces a hole

if you look round the bottom of the doors and in the duct for the window vents there are a load of screws, take these out, then gently prise off the square cover on the bottom section of the door card and undo that screw. You will also need to gently lever off the tweeter cover and take out the door latch handle cover. after that pull slowly from the bottom and you'll feel the pop stud fasteners give, if there is any resistance check for other screws. When you eventually get to the top simply lift up and out and the card comes away. You may need to take the door lock/window controll panel out too for a screw. Its fairly easy though jsut go careful

Take it hassan pulled out then. However the charger and stroker idea sounds interesting....... go on do it. You obviously like the idea yourself or you wouldn't of mentioned it so you just need a bit of proactive encouragement :D

Schoolboy error everyone knows that you only engine flush with a bucket of strawberry jelly

Hi Mike, tried that today..did not want to do any damage.. it stopped working the other day but I have only had chance to look at it today.. its a 1999 GS300 I have taken the pipes off where I can and it is getting to the nozzles with loads of pressure!! pop the jets off the bonnet and reverse flush them with an airline or jetwash. When my jets clogged it was due to a steelk connector going rusty might be flakes in it

Lexus Bradford tried told me to get a third party opinion, and tried to hold my car to ransom to prevent me getting one. I have got one, and it does not help their position. As I have said before - I take no issue with reconditioned parts that have gone through a proper QA process and are fully warranted. Had I been offered that in the first place, that would not have been an issue. However, that has not happened here. Lexus GB claim to have provided a brand new part to Leeds. The Bradford (ex-Leeds) mechanic has alleged Leeds provided them a unit recovered from a vehicle in a serious accident. So what has happened to the brand new unit? What, if any, QA process has the recovered differential gone though? And why the need to cover it all up? Theres a little trick to this that no one usually knows and it causes all sorts of hassle, but it depends if you want to go down that route. Lexus/Toyota are hugely into TQM or the next incarnation of quality management. Due to the quality system ANYONE can ask for the paperwork to issue a quality occurance report, (if they don't give it report them to the ISO awarding body). The act of initiating this will make a huge paper trail about the parts and if they really have messed up collapse the quality system in the area that went wrong. The Japanese are very protective over quality so it would probably be a curveball they aren't expecting. There must be an auditable trail for this part so find it but rather than customer services go straight to Quality Management at corporate headquarters.

once one area goes on the fins the rest start to go quite quickly then they fail (personal experience) i found mine doing a coolant change thought it would be ok then it failed 1000 miles later. Out of interest which mark GS is it as i have mk1 i'm splitting atm ;) and the rads only been in for 6-8k

lol i dropped him off to get a supra after i got the aristo have to chuckle really as if i hadn't had his i would have had yours dave so in a roundabout sort of way i've still paid for it lol. What induction kits on the risto anyhow i'm having ajob finding one that removes the maf carrier was for his brother i now know...how has changed his mind for a Golf R32.... However y/day got another call and the guy is having a look at it Monday afternoon. My induction kit is the HKS Racing Suction woth abflug cold air box. Personally without the cold air box I'd say you are wasting your time with any of the ind kits due to heat soak... Try the BFI method...I did it on mine pre Ind kit & worked well. Get a TRD/TOM's/A N Other panel filter remove standard air box drill 3 60mm holes in it > fit 3 trumpets (bell mouth) to it This allows more air...keeps OEM scoop working...is a cold air box...and is cheap............... Got a PE kit in stock as well Can email you pics of my bfi install if you want don't have the original equipment option as its not there, was looking into manufacturing a cold air box out of kevlar though so looks like its going to be custom through apart from the filter. Might get my original ram air idea going again. Head lights are v good with the hids in them its like daybreak when i turn them on but i do get a bit worried they are too bright and dazzling. I'm away working for a bit but come the week after i'll try and get some pics up

Sounds like mine pre geometry i used to get the back end coming round when i accelerated hard from standing and then snapping back round the other way as it found purchase. Alot of my problems stemmed from toe and camber being way out. I have the ARS cancellors on mine as well and now the car feels great. Quick test to do would be to find a fairly decent dual carriageway thats quiet and seeing if when you let go of the wheel it follows the camber gently on either side and stays in the middle when you straddle the lines, its rough but if it shoots off to one side it will certainly indicate a problem.

Reckon this could be one for tony but others may know so, jsut put some new bridgestone 275/35/19s onto the risto to replace the 275/30/19s. Did not think that this would be that much of a problem but it has turned out to be. The increase in profile has seen the tyres foul slightly on the wheel arch inner so i either need to change the ride height at the rear or go more negative on the camber. My first inclination is to increase the ride height by the difference in the profile size (approx 20mm) as i am assuming that amount wont compromise the rake angle of the car very much over the distance (0.5deg). The concern i have is exactly how much clearance should i have between car and rubber, i'm fairly certain its just on the sidewall/tread area its rubbing but i don't want any bumps to push the tyre into the arches at speed. Will also bring my cambers in at the back very slightly but will it mess with any other settings?

i have the blitz steel mesh one on atm just prefer the full induction roar to get rid of the maf housing and rubber hose, i've made a chrome piece to replace the rubber i would just like the whole thing

lol i dropped him off to get a supra after i got the aristo have to chuckle really as if i hadn't had his i would have had yours dave so in a roundabout sort of way i've still paid for it lol. What induction kits on the risto anyhow i'm having ajob finding one that removes the maf carrier

yes i heard alot of bits came from prolex dave the diff for one. AS to the bonnet no idea where it came from it was on the motor when i got it i assume its off the ki kit think nemesis get hold of them in this country. As for the wheels i've just replaced one of them due to it getting bent when the back tyres popped should be here tomorrow which is a good thing as having 2 rx8 wheels on the back and the firenzas on the front looks odd

does the tartan give it away?

I was in 2 minds about the angels eyes but these are built into the lights not added seperately so i think it makes them look better. 6.5k in the end up which considering all the bits on it was a steal. Miss the GS's leather interior though but one will turn up on ebay sooner or later

Well it might be wise to post on a few of the forums other than this whats happened especially the toyota ones and keep an eye on ebay i'll bet theres not may about. I also have a set of wheels free come the weekend they're only rx8 alloys but they fit and i'll give you a lend to see you thru if you can get them