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How to prevent Mark Levinson amp failure?


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Hi

I recently bought a max-spec late 2012 IS 250, the Mk2 generation (the Mk3 IS was much more expensive so was not worth it for me).

Previously I had a 2007 IS 250.

Anyways, with my current car, the audio seems to work just fine. I know that there have been topics about problems regarding the amplifier in Mk2 IS.

My question is, can I do something that would reduce the chance/possibility that something would go wrong with it? I know that the amplifier is still stored in the trunk.

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25 minutes ago, VGK said:

Hi

I recently bought a max-spec late 2012 IS 250, the Mk2 generation (the Mk3 IS was much more expensive so was not worth it for me).

Previously I had a 2007 IS 250.

Anyways, with my current car, the audio seems to work just fine. I know that there have been topics about problems regarding the amplifier in Mk2 IS.

My question is, can I do something that would reduce the chance/possibility that something would go wrong with it? I know that the amplifier is still stored in the trunk.

They go wrong because they tend to overheat. High volume and bass music doesn’t help it but that’s more of a subwoofer issue. The amp needs to have constant airflow. There are air ducts behind the rear bumper on the sides that allow for airflow but they tend to get clogged with dirt etc. take the bumper off and make sure they’re clean, if so, don’t worry. If not, clean it up and happy motoring

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12 minutes ago, H3XME said:

They go wrong because they tend to overheat. High volume and bass music doesn’t help it but that’s more of a subwoofer issue. The amp needs to have constant airflow. There are air ducts behind the rear bumper on the sides that allow for airflow but they tend to get clogged with dirt etc. take the bumper off and make sure they’re clean, if so, don’t worry. If not, clean it up and happy motoring

got it, thanks

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I would say - you can't really "prevent" it from failing e.g. I don't think "just not listening music too loud" is viable, because what is the point of ML then?! But the IS mk2 amps seems to be better and don't fail by themselves, unlike GS mk3 or older LS or specifically SC430 where ML amps were failing internally. Instead on IS mk2 they seem to fail because of two reasons - they either get hot or wet and there are few things one can do reduce the risk of that happening.

And just to be clear IS mk2 ML amp issue is not that bad, ML subs do fail and that is common, but AMPs are actually alright... apart of being fitted in stupid place and susceptible to getting wet or hot.

So to prevent them from getting wet, just make sure your boot seals do not leak, as well do not store any liquids above the amps in the boot (that is right side of the boot), then it would be good to check if the went at the bottom is not clogged.

As for not getting them hot, I have theory that the reason amps overheat is because their fans fail, so as little preventative maintenance I don't think it would hurt to vacuum the area around the amp and the fan inlet, to make sure it is not clogged and there is no excessive amount of dust and crap to be sucked into the amp (being bottom of the boot it could get dirty). 

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Another factor to also consider is the use of “lead free solder” the stuff simply doesn’t provide the same level of adhesion and suffers more from dry joints. Constant heating and cooling leads to failure of the joints.

 

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10 hours ago, Linas.P said:

I would say - you can't really "prevent" it from failing e.g. I don't think "just not listening music too loud" is viable, because what is the point of ML then?! But the IS mk2 amps seems to be better and don't fail by themselves, unlike GS mk3 or older LS or specifically SC430 where ML amps were failing internally. Instead on IS mk2 they seem to fail because of two reasons - they either get hot or wet and there are few things one can do reduce the risk of that happening.

And just to be clear IS mk2 ML amp issue is not that bad, ML subs do fail and that is common, but AMPs are actually alright... apart of being fitted in stupid place and susceptible to getting wet or hot.

So to prevent them from getting wet, just make sure your boot seals do not leak, as well do not store any liquids above the amps in the boot (that is right side of the boot), then it would be good to check if the went at the bottom is not clogged.

As for not getting them hot, I have theory that the reason amps overheat is because their fans fail, so as little preventative maintenance I don't think it would hurt to vacuum the area around the amp and the fan inlet, to make sure it is not clogged and there is no excessive amount of dust and crap to be sucked into the amp (being bottom of the boot it could get dirty). 

I'd agree. My amp failed after 165k miles - just overheated. However, I went through 3 subs in my ownership which was roughly 3 years and 50,000 miles. I'd advise against cranking the bass up in the EQ for long periods of time 😂

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11 hours ago, steve2006 said:

Another factor to also consider is the use of “lead free solder” the stuff simply doesn’t provide the same level of adhesion and suffers more from dry joints. Constant heating and cooling leads to failure of the joints.

 

At very least transition to it, but they kind of figured that out now, so they must have found the way to keep the joins as they suppose to be without lead. Because most of the issues were related to very early ML/Lexus collaborations... after ~2005 amps have improved significantly and new ones are not known to fail (at least not as often). 

So my theory would go as such - ML was high-end home audio company, so they made excellent quality products, however they were fragile... and in the cars they simple shaken themselves to bits on early models. Later ML either figured it out, or perhaps they were told how to do it better by their parents Samsung/Harman. As well, most of early ML systems were horribly overcomplicated and amp isn't really just an amp, it is master for all things audio and if any of 100 functions of it fails then the whole unit fails and people just used to assume it is amp that goes. Whereas on new cars ML amp is just an amp and head unit has taken over most of other functions.

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On 8/7/2023 at 10:43 AM, H3XME said:

 

 I'd advise against cranking the bass up in the EQ for long periods of time 😂

Currently the "bass" slider is set to middle, would you say thats fine? What was your "bass" slider set at, as you've had multiple sub failures

 

On 8/7/2023 at 12:29 AM, Linas.P said:

ML subs do fail and that is common,

oh ok didnt know that sub failures are more common

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To be honest I am not even sure playing it loud is what makes them fail... or maybe they being shaken to bits (by being little bit fragile), or overheat by being fitted on the parcel shelf and baking in the sun.

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1 hour ago, VGK said:

Currently the "bass" slider is set to middle, would you say thats fine? What was your "bass" slider set at, as you've had multiple sub failures

Yeah, middle is how it should be. It's only on full and high volume when it causes issues over time. 

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1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

To be honest I am not even sure playing it loud is what makes them fail... or maybe they being shaken to bits (by being little bit fragile), or overheat by being fitted on the parcel shelf and baking in the sun.

One of mine was ripped, the other 2 didn't look broken, but I'm sure the parcel shelf sun doesn't help the overheating. 

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