Today Was The Day.

[lee_iceman]

Well today was the day for the S/C install.

A swap from billybandits car to mine including decatted manifold.

Well everything went well, pipework installed, black box fitted, then went to start it.

Nothing. it turns over as tho wanting to start but there is no fire.

When you turn the key to the first position, the lights come on as normal except the Battery light. The airbag light goes off but the traction control off light stays on as does the light that says you have a bulb out at the back, plus the security light still flashes slow as tho the alarm is still set. The other funny thing is that where the outside temp should be is the letter 'E'.

So we went about removing the black box so as to put the ecu back to standard, still car would not start. So after a phone call to Mike (for a few phone numbers), Matt and Gord we tried leaving both Battery terminals off for 30 minutes and reconnecting, still no start. Removing the two fuses from the ECU and replacing still no start.

We think this is possibly something to do with the immobiliser, all the time whilst fitting, around 5-6 hours the negative terminal was removed, don't know if this has anything to do with it.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the installation of the black box?

This is how we set it up, as per Andys car.

ECU -> top connector block -> middle pin, top row(white/black trace) - negative of black box

ECU -> 2nd connector block -> middle pin, 2nd row up form bottom of block(green/red trace) - cut this and connected the green of black box, the yellow off the black box to the end going into the harness

ECU -> 3rd connector block -> nothing connected

ECU -> bottom connector block -> middle pin, bottom row(black/red trace with grey banding) - positive of black box

As I say the black box has since been removed and the above wires reconnected and still no start with an E on the display and the lights stay on.

Anyone have any other ideas as to what could be the problem.

Gord mentioned something about trying to reprogramme the key to the car, anyone know anything else about this.

Cheers

Lee.

[Noel]

see this post.........?

Immobiliser

[Gord]

Well today was the day for the S/C install.

A swap from billybandits car to mine including decatted manifold.

Well everything went well, pipework installed, black box fitted, then went to start it.

Nothing. it turns over as tho wanting to start but there is no fire.

When you turn the key to the first position, the lights come on as normal except the battery light. The airbag light goes off but the traction control off light stays on as does the light that says you have a bulb out at the back, plus the security light still flashes slow as tho the alarm is still set. The other funny thing is that where the outside temp should be is the letter 'E'.

So we went about removing the black box so as to put the ecu back to standard, still car would not start. So after a phone call to Mike (for a few phone numbers), Matt and Gord we tried leaving both battery terminals off for 30 minutes and reconnecting, still no start. Removing the two fuses from the ECU and replacing still no start.

We think this is possibly something to do with the immobiliser, all the time whilst fitting, around 5-6 hours the negative terminal was removed, don't know if this has anything to do with it.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the installation of the black box?

This is how we set it up, as per Andys car.

ECU -> top connector block -> middle pin, top row(white/black trace) - negative of black box

ECU -> 2nd connector block -> middle pin, 2nd row up form bottom of block(green/red trace) - cut this and connected the green of black box, the yellow off the black box to the end going into the harness

ECU -> 3rd connector block -> nothing connected

ECU -> bottom connector block -> middle pin, bottom row(black/red trace with grey banding) - positive of black box

As I say the black box has since been removed and the above wires reconnected and still no start with an E on the display and the lights stay on.

Anyone have any other ideas as to what could be the problem.

Gord mentioned something about trying to reprogramme the key to the car, anyone know anything else about this.

Cheers

Lee.

pm me your email address and i will send you the instructions :D

[billybandit]

just like to echo what lee's said, thanks to mike, matt and gord for there help.

and lee sorry again mate .still no joy, will leave Battery disconected all night and see what tomorrow brings

[lee_iceman]

just like to echo what lee's said, thanks to mike, matt and gord for there help.

and lee sorry again mate .still no joy, will leave battery disconected all night and see what tomorrow brings

Seen the page Gord just sent me, wired exactly the same.

Give you a bell tomorrow night.

[lee_iceman]

Well, maybe a bit of progress tonight. After leaving the Battery disconnected for 24 hours, still no start all lights still as they were yesterday. We did find that the 20A EFI fuse keeps popping when you try and start the engine.

All the ecu cables are back as standard, all soldered together.

Anyone know of anything we can check that relates to this EFI fuse? Can't try anything else tonight as out of fuses.

Also don't suppose anyone has an electrical wiring diagram for the engine management system.

Matt I remember you saying that when the Battery is disconnected, the beeping that comes from the back of the car is the backup alarm. Does the beeping mean that the backup is knackered? Could this have some effect on the immobiliser? When we take the Battery off Andy's car there is no beeping.

We tried the immobiliser link but think that is only for GS models, as it didn't seem to work.

The other thing that happened just as we were packing up was when you double press the alarm, there are 5 flashes, as normal, whereas yesterday there were only 2

Cheers

Lee.

[Ellz]

Well, maybe a bit of progress tonight. After leaving the battery disconnected for 24 hours, still no start all lights still as they were yesterday. We did find that the 20A EFI fuse keeps popping when you try and start the engine.

All the ecu cables are back as standard, all soldered together.

Anyone know of anything we can check that relates to this EFI fuse? Can't try anything else tonight as out of fuses.

Also don't suppose anyone has an electrical wiring diagram for the engine management system.

Matt I remember you saying that when the battery is disconnected, the beeping that comes from the back of the car is the backup alarm. Does the beeping mean that the backup is knackered? Could this have some effect on the immobiliser? When we take the battery off Andy's car there is no beeping.

We tried the immobiliser link but think that is only for GS models, as it didn't seem to work.

The other thing that happened just as we were packing up was when you double press the alarm, there are 5 flashes, as normal, whereas yesterday there were only 2

Cheers

Lee.

I wish i could help, i would be going mad at this point over 200 horsies wanting to be let rip on the road ahhhhhhhhhhh.

Hope you get it sorted soon buddy.

Good luck and may the force be with you :D

[Mr Morse]

This all kinda reminds me of the problems that I had some time ago.....when the horn and the immobiliser got all screwed up. Turned out it was a faulty relay on the aftermarket horn I'd fitted. Just an idea.

[lee_iceman]

Cheers Ellz, it is frustrating but these things are sent to test us.

This all kinda reminds me of the problems that I had some time ago.....when the horn and the immobiliser got all screwed up. Turned out it was a faulty relay on the aftermarket horn I'd fitted. Just an idea.

hmmm, wonder if the EFI has a relay, not really noticed that, might be worth checking out, cheers Mike.

[Monster-Mat]

the beeping says power has been disconnected from the alarm.

there is an efi relay, i cant remember if its the green or the yellow, but its marked if there is one in the relay box, there is an efi fuse

[Gord]

Anymore news is it running yet lee :D

[creatinelex]

the best way to wire the piggy back ecu in is to bare back the relivant wires and solder them on.it sounds like your wiring is in the correct positons but not connected properlly.

[Gord]

the best way to wire the piggy back ecu in is to bare back the relivant wires and solder them on.it sounds like your wiring is in the correct positons but not connected properlly.

Riding a piggy bare back with a soldering iron what have you been doing

[creatinelex]

the best way to wire the piggy back ecu in is to bare back the relivant wires and solder them on.it sounds like your wiring is in the correct positons but not connected properlly.

Riding a piggy bare back with a soldering iron what have you been doing

:o

[BAGGY]

:) Hi mate have a look at these. crap pictures i know but u can read it on full screen

also i have got the wiring diagrams but have no scanner so unable show you pictures

[lee_iceman]

Not long got back from work. popping to have a lookin bit, going to use a multimeter to test for an open circuit.

Got a few more 20amp fuses to try, if no joy will get hold of a relay tomorrow and give that a try.

piggy back ECU has been taken out now and the original cables soldered back together. Not many other things that can blow the fuse surely. Either a short or a faulty relay. Both of which will be test tonight on tomorrow.

We will get this sorted out, soon hopefully

@baggy, can only see one pic mate.

Lee.

[BAGGY]

Not long got back from work. popping to have a lookin bit, going to use a multimeter to test for an open circuit.

Got a few more 20amp fuses to try, if no joy will get hold of a relay tomorrow and give that a try.

piggy back ECU has been taken out now and the original cables soldered back together. Not many other things that can blow the fuse surely. Either a short or a faulty relay. Both of which will be test tonight on tomorrow.

We will get this sorted out, soon hopefully

@baggy, can only see one pic mate.

Lee.

sorry mate it wont let me put both on pm me your email and ill send you both :)

[Gord]

Is she running yet Lee

[lee_iceman]

Is she running yet Lee

Not yet mate, after some more testing last nite looks like the ECU is Fubar'd. Fingers are crossed for Saturday, have another ECU on the way.

Some pics to show everything is ready to go.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

Have to say, it really fills the hole very well, looks like it should have been there from the start.

[Monster-Mat]

hmm can you not just get it scanned on an obdII scanner before changing the ECU

[lee_iceman]

hmm can you not just get it scanned on an obdII scanner before changing the ECU

Trouble is, without being able to start it and without access to a tow truck, we can't really take it anywhere.

[GALLA_4]

Are you talking about the TTE piggy back ECU or the whole OEM ECU Ouch if its the latter

I noticed that the TTE piggyback ECU doesn't seem to like moving from car to car. Most people who have had problems with the TTE piggy back ECU are those who have purchsed their SC kit second hand that has previously been installed in another IS. Just an observation

[lee_iceman]

Are you talking about the TTE piggy back ECU or the whole OEM ECU Ouch if its the latter

I noticed that the TTE piggyback ECU doesn't seem to like moving from car to car. Most people who have had problems with the TTE piggy back ECU are those who have purchsed their SC kit second hand that has previously been installed in another IS. Just an observation

Yeah, on about the Main ECU, got a new one for a very decent price :winky: :winky:

piggy back ECU is not connected at all. Will have to contact TTE for a replacement or try and get hold of a HKS, as I've heard a few good things about them.

[BAGGY]

Are you talking about the TTE piggy back ECU or the whole OEM ECU Ouch if its the latter

I noticed that the TTE piggyback ECU doesn't seem to like moving from car to car. Most people who have had problems with the TTE piggy back ECU are those who have purchsed their SC kit second hand that has previously been installed in another IS. Just an observation

Yeah, on about the Main ECU, got a new one for a very decent price :winky: :winky:

piggy back ECU is not connected at all. Will have to contact TTE for a replacement or try and get hold of a HKS, as I've heard a few good things about them.

Hi there mate did my pics help? also if you can send it back i have a ecu you can try f.o.c.

What is the hks ecu called as im thinking of getting a s/c soon myself.

[Mr Morse]

Are you talking about the TTE piggy back ECU or the whole OEM ECU Ouch if its the latter

I noticed that the TTE piggyback ECU doesn't seem to like moving from car to car. Most people who have had problems with the TTE piggy back ECU are those who have purchsed their SC kit second hand that has previously been installed in another IS. Just an observation

Yeah, on about the Main ECU, got a new one for a very decent price :winky: :winky:

piggy back ECU is not connected at all. Will have to contact TTE for a replacement or try and get hold of a HKS, as I've heard a few good things about them.

Hi there mate did my pics help? also if you can send it back i have a ecu you can try f.o.c.

What is the hks ecu called as im thinking of getting a s/c soon myself.

HKS F-Con