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scotsman

Chips On Bonnet Throgh To White

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Anybody else unhappy with new is250 paintwork, i have three chips on bonnett which are through to white, never happened on is200 is the paintwork not so good on new car. Any thoughts?

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Anybody else unhappy with new is250 paintwork, i have three chips on bonnett which are through to white, never happened on is200 is the paintwork not so good on new car. Any thoughts?

What colour you got.

Mine's black and the white chips really show up; I've given up worrying about it now.

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seems lexus havn't learnt there lesson from the 1st gen model

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My car ic caterbury blue wth lots of suface scratches and white chips!! That is what I was thimking, that the paint must be mega soft, anybody approached dealers with complaint.

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My car ic caterbury blue wth lots of suface scratches and white chips!! That is what I was thimking, that the paint must be mega soft, anybody approached dealers with complaint.

I think I read someplace on this forum that they have switched to a non solvent or oil based paint as per soon to be implimented EU rules. Will be a while before these new paints are up to the resistance standards of the older solvent stuff.

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yep, all the harmful crap has been removed from car paint, hence it's now softer, hence even prestige models will get chips immediately! mercs are no better these days

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If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

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My Canterbury Blue is awful close up - looks like it's been pepperd with a twelve bore.

I am hopeless with a touch up brush so I have just tried the following and so far looks as if it could work.

I have bought some coloured polish from Halfords and used a cocktail stick to fill the chips. Didn't have to worry too much about the accuracy as the next step sorts it out.

I waited about 15-30 minutes for the polish to dry and then applied a regular polish over the bonnet. Lots of rubbing in with a good cloth rubbed out the over-fill, brought up the shine and the filled holes stayed coloured. Have to get really close to notice so just hope it lasts.

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My Canterbury Blue is awful close up - looks like it's been pepperd with a twelve bore.

I am hopeless with a touch up brush so I have just tried the following and so far looks as if it could work.

I have bought some coloured polish from Halfords and used a cocktail stick to fill the chips. Didn't have to worry too much about the accuracy as the next step sorts it out.

I waited about 15-30 minutes for the polish to dry and then applied a regular polish over the bonnet. Lots of rubbing in with a good cloth rubbed out the over-fill, brought up the shine and the filled holes stayed coloured. Have to get really close to notice so just hope it lasts.

Interesting idea.

Did the coloured wax harden or was it still soft when you applied the regular polish?

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If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

You should buy a product called Langka - it makes applying touch up paint trivially easy.

You put enough paint in the stone chip, wait one hour, put some Langka on a clean cloth and wrap it around a flat plastic card - 5-10 seconds rubbing over the blob - perfect smooth flush result!

It is just fantastic.

Langka can gently melt away the excess touch up paint letting you smooth it out properly - but it does not affect normal paint. In fact if you rub for long enough you can remove the touch up paint completely - so if you really mess it up you can sort it out and start again.

The key is to work on it within 1-2 hours of application before it cures to being too hard.

Mark

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If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

You should buy a product called Langka - it makes applying touch up paint trivially easy.

You put enough paint in the stone chip, wait one hour, put some Langka on a clean cloth and wrap it around a flat plastic card - 5-10 seconds rubbing over the blob - perfect smooth flush result!

It is just fantastic.

Langka can gently melt away the excess touch up paint letting you smooth it out properly - but it does not affect normal paint. In fact if you rub for long enough you can remove the touch up paint completely - so if you really mess it up you can sort it out and start again.

The key is to work on it within 1-2 hours of application before it cures to being too hard.

Mark

mspiteri,

Any idea where we get Langka from ?

Infinity.........

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My Canterbury Blue is awful close up - looks like it's been pepperd with a twelve bore.

I am hopeless with a touch up brush so I have just tried the following and so far looks as if it could work.

I have bought some coloured polish from Halfords and used a cocktail stick to fill the chips. Didn't have to worry too much about the accuracy as the next step sorts it out.

I waited about 15-30 minutes for the polish to dry and then applied a regular polish over the bonnet. Lots of rubbing in with a good cloth rubbed out the over-fill, brought up the shine and the filled holes stayed coloured. Have to get really close to notice so just hope it lasts.

Interesting idea.

Did the coloured wax harden or was it still soft when you applied the regular polish?

It goes hard enough to grip to the exposed undercoat but soft enough to merge with the polish overcoat. A week has gone by so I will check the durability when I wash it tomorrow (weather permitting).

If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

You should buy a product called Langka - it makes applying touch up paint trivially easy.

You put enough paint in the stone chip, wait one hour, put some Langka on a clean cloth and wrap it around a flat plastic card - 5-10 seconds rubbing over the blob - perfect smooth flush result!

It is just fantastic.

Langka can gently melt away the excess touch up paint letting you smooth it out properly - but it does not affect normal paint. In fact if you rub for long enough you can remove the touch up paint completely - so if you really mess it up you can sort it out and start again.

The key is to work on it within 1-2 hours of application before it cures to being too hard.

Mark

mspiteri,

Any idea where we get Langka from ?

Infinity.........

Try here - http://www.langka.com/ for info and here http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=8221 for purchase

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If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

You should buy a product called Langka - it makes applying touch up paint trivially easy.

You put enough paint in the stone chip, wait one hour, put some Langka on a clean cloth and wrap it around a flat plastic card - 5-10 seconds rubbing over the blob - perfect smooth flush result!

It is just fantastic.

Langka can gently melt away the excess touch up paint letting you smooth it out properly - but it does not affect normal paint. In fact if you rub for long enough you can remove the touch up paint completely - so if you really mess it up you can sort it out and start again.

The key is to work on it within 1-2 hours of application before it cures to being too hard.

Mark

mspiteri,

Any idea where we get Langka from ?

Infinity.........

Sorry for the late reply - but someone else already got there. I had purchased it from that Frost car restoration website.

Mark

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If your like me and hopeless at chip restoration via the supplied tin of paint and artists brush or pinhead then I would suggest - from Halfords get one of their kits that comes with a 'nib applicator'.

Get one the closest match to yours, tip out the paint and fill it with some from your 'tin'. This makes filling in the chips a lot more accurate and you can control the paint flow much easier.

I think I got a Rover Tahiti Blue which is very close to my montrose blue.

You should buy a product called Langka - it makes applying touch up paint trivially easy.

You put enough paint in the stone chip, wait one hour, put some Langka on a clean cloth and wrap it around a flat plastic card - 5-10 seconds rubbing over the blob - perfect smooth flush result!

It is just fantastic.

Langka can gently melt away the excess touch up paint letting you smooth it out properly - but it does not affect normal paint. In fact if you rub for long enough you can remove the touch up paint completely - so if you really mess it up you can sort it out and start again.

The key is to work on it within 1-2 hours of application before it cures to being too hard.

Mark

mspiteri,

Any idea where we get Langka from ?

Infinity.........

Sorry for the late reply - but someone else already got there. I had purchased it from that Frost car restoration website.

Mark

Has anyone tried Langka on metallic paint? The instructions seem to warn about laquered paint and the fact that you should not use it?

Any help would be apprieciated.

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I have used Langka and found it perfectly safe for metallic finishes. I didn't find it that easy to use though. Maybe it was just me though.

As for stone chips, water based paints have been around for over 10 years so it's not new technology. Every car I've had over the last 20 years has got stone chips and I haven't seen any increase with the latter ones. In any case the shape of the front end will have more bearing on the number of stone chips that the paint quality. Also would harder paint not be more brittle and prone to chipping than softer, more flexible paint? I picked up a couple of stone chips when I first got my 250 but I found keeping a safe distance from the vehicle in front has reduced new ones to almost zero.

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I have used Langka and found it perfectly safe for metallic finishes. I didn't find it that easy to use though. Maybe it was just me though.

As for stone chips, water based paints have been around for over 10 years so it's not new technology. Every car I've had over the last 20 years has got stone chips and I haven't seen any increase with the latter ones. In any case the shape of the front end will have more bearing on the number of stone chips that the paint quality. Also would harder paint not be more brittle and prone to chipping than softer, more flexible paint? I picked up a couple of stone chips when I first got my 250 but I found keeping a safe distance from the vehicle in front has reduced new ones to almost zero.

Many thanks for that. I would also agree with your comment, stay back and let the stones hit the ground rather than the front of your car!!

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