Rob

The bracket i can see is the black plastic part and i can also see a hinge , i accept it is not the mounting bracket but it is a bracket! To be honest if i was the seller i would tell you to pis$ off, the ad clearly states "what you see if what you get" you got what was in the photos, you didnt read the advert properly or question "It will be shipped as show in the photos!" and now you complain about it. I cant see anywhere in the ad that mentions you will also recieve the replacement cubby hole or magnet cover either.

makes no difference

mmmm wierd... if u remove the 3 bolts on the pulley cover and turn the cover is it quite then? i really dont see how loosening the bolts would make any difference as the 2 parts (pulley and the the black cover) of the pulley are locked together by the bolts and its the cover that drives the compressor, unless its a problem with the bearing but tightening the bolts doesnt effect the bearing as i can see. ill be interested so see what u find. oh give me the number off the bearing (the blue one) and ill find the link for the place i got my replacement one from

hi Patrik, are there meant to be 2 pictures?? ---- ah see the 2nd pic now! the lobes look about normal but have a more rub than mine - i am more concerned about the rubbing thats on the edge of the lobe at the top of the picture, is it just paint or is it thru to the metal?? if its metal then it tells me the lobe is touching the case and it should not. the clearences between the lobe and the casing is very very tight but they should not touch each other BUT you will get some rubbing marks the compressor with the gringing noise... in your video it looked a lot harder to turn with your hand compared to the other one - is that right?? I would be surprised if the grinding is from the pulley bolts as they just go thru the plastic cover, the clutch plates and then into the pulley. Best way to check everything is to remove the pulley - you will need a 3 leg puller to do this the pulley is tight as thread lock/retaining compound is used - may also need a bit of heat to remove it. once the pulley is removed you have the splined shaft that u can turn by hand - if the noise is there then it is the compressor and not the pulley. it could be that the bearing is defective in the pulley also??? but it must be falling apart to make that sort of noise....

The kit will prob work quite well and no issues with belt slip as its a toothed belt. The kit just needs a bit of cleaning up to make it look nicer, the cooler looks horrible. The compressor unit is a centrifugal type (belt driven turbo stlye) so is far more efficient than the roots type of the TTE kit - the power outbut is higher as well 60hp compared to 50hp of the tte

the casing normally breaks because the small retaining screw has become loose allowing the plastic case to flex - its not cheap materials, its user error..... sorry to be blunt! the dealer is talking complete crap, you can buy the blank cases and then get them cut quite easily - all you do is swap over the key internals. BUT be aware that some keys have longer blades so measure yours and check the blade on the key you are bidding on.

glad u got it sorted mate.... first thing i thought of when i saw the code in ur other post was the bypass cable........

ah i am guessing they dont have the disc to read the problem but they should be able to read the code.... even the free basic progs u get off the net reads the code

Ur having a laugh..... obd reader is basic equipment......

you could order these from dealers in mainland europe

hi Patrik, thats great thankyou for the video. so the max is about 10,000 rpm, the compresor has a max rpm of 14000...... so that makes me wonder if those that had the tdi pulley fitted is the unit operating over the max rpm??? did tdi even look into this, i doubt it TBH..... also your other video - something is wrong with that compressor unit - it should not make the grinding noise - it tells me the lobes are rubbing against the casing - not good at all. Patrik if you remove the outlet cone/pipe then you can clearly see the lobes and also the casing and see if they have been rubbing against each other. If the lobes are rubbing it normally indicates the compressor has operated at very high temperatures and the case has distorted - normally as a result of being driven over the 14000 rpm Also I believe it helps to move the air temperature sensor to the throttle body inlet as that is the "true" temperature rather than measuring the colder air at the inlet of the compressor..but i may be wrong.

yes mate i am... swissrob of course.... its judges bike, got stolen whilst he was in the house working!

fixed now

Hi All, someone i know had his bike stolen today... have a look please and let me know if u see one similar floating about not too many in that colour scheme BTW stolen from orpington kent area Thanks rob

when fitting the belt remove the tensioner put belt on the compressor and then refit the tensioner with the belt on it already then install the mounting bolt - it is so much easier and takes less time

I get the same sometimes and i have the silver ecu from TTE, the pause happens at exactly 3k and the shudder is more towards WOT. it is not clutch slip

i read the advert and it is clear to me "what you see is what you get.........." the arm rest is there, it has a hinge, and it has a mount bracket so in the way the description is correct. its ebay...... you take your chances.

i think they will write it off as the cost of the loom and labour charges will be worth more than the car. it looks like something shorted the battery as the area looks localised and esp as the battery has melted it suggests it has

yes the bearings u can get them from a guy on the american ebay he is the ONLY person i found that sells them to the public..... ill find his name and PM you. BUT these are the 2 bearings at the rear..... 100% forget about touching the bearings in the front of the unit. You need to press out the shafts using a 10,000kg press to break the initial bond and everything must be marked perfectly so the lobes will run properly together. also the bearings and seals are a very very special size for the rotors. the bearing on the front for the clutch assy is also a special size... ill find the bearing number for you on thirsday when i am back home, its also special and hard to find. its natchi that makes the bearings and they were a limited production run. send me the details of the optical meter i like that! why do u have one? can you do me a favour and see the rpm of the pulley at max revs?????

yes u get them in gadget shops etc

buy some gold and then cash it in - at least u will make a profit rather than loose money

just open the jack a little so its tighht in thebracket - u may also have a small foam rubber block at one end to act as a cushion

if there is always oil then it suggests the bore/ring/piston/valve guide is damaged and allowing oil past.

whats that mate?

its a long shot but some garages have a video probe - maybe u can have a look inside the cylinder and see if its damaged - i really hope that the end burnt away over time and didnt break off. if u know someone that works in the tech side at an airport they should be able to help u out with a probe also. if i was coming over to the UK i could bring one and have a look but dont plan to be in the UK for a long time. may also be worth having a compression test performed to be sure.....