SteveLS400

During the years when I bought new cars, they often came back from a service with oil ouzing down the pillars (mainly Ford and vauxhall). That MIGHT have resulted in the odd drip below the door. Interestingly our question master has yet to return so don't discount the boiled sweet scenario. I often stick a bag of shopping on the back seat and can imagine a bottle of washing-up liquid falling out as in green and oily-ish. Did our friend park over an existing patch of stuff? How many times have we thought we had a water leak only to be relieved that it was caused by the aircon? There's nothing inside the door. Coolant isn't normally oily. The only thing that springs to mind is an aircon leak. Suspect we will never know without some feedback.

The only tool to have! Know what you mean; things soon sort themselves out when threatened with the big hammer. Typically, when I went out earlier the illumination was fine; didn't have to wave the hammer around.

Thanks for your response. It does sound like a loose connection, I'll have a look at it.

Happy New Year to one and all. For the last few days I have had an issue with the radio unit illumination. I have spent a good while searching using various keywords without success due to different models and symptoms. It would appear that the radio unit is fully functional including the LCD readout. However the backlight to the display (with or without lights on, with or without daylight) does not work most of the time. The lack of illumination also affects all the buttons below the display. It does work some of the time. This does not sound like a failed or failing bulb as it affects the entire unit. A little while ago, I noticed that one of the heated seat switch illumuination was not working. I haven't as yet replaced any bulb although I did have this part of the centre console out to source the bulb at the local spares shop. They couldn't help (I know Maplins will be able to) but replaced the console and now none of the illumination works to the switches incorporated in it. Note that the switch on light does still function. I can't imagine that the lack of illumination to this unit has any bearing on the radio........ or does it? Thoughts gratefully received.

Evenin I have to say that a direct response would be best but that assumes that the member with the knowledge is logged in and available to post a reply. I always try and help but always direct the person to the search facility. Or, put another way; do you want the answer/guidence now, or would you prefer to wait a while? A good example is the help and advice from Benfur. Unlike me, Maurice can't be online allday. Plus the background knowledge is mega from the search facility.

You obviously have a short of some sort. I would start by checking the wiring and the bulb holders to see if there is any damage/corrosion and inspect each bulb. Assumming that nothing is obvious, and with all the brake lights disconnected, try each one. This will either find the faulty unit or enable you to discount the lights/bulbs themselves. If that is the case then it is likely to be a fault with the brake pedal switch. The following 2 tutorials may prove helpful. The first relates to accessing the high level brake light http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/upperstoplight.html and the second relates to wiring issues in the boot (trunk to you) http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/bulbout.html Please let us know how you get on.

That was my immediate thought and suspected it was yours too. If you hadn't had the work done then an ignition problem was a likely culprit. I can understand your reluctance to drive it 50 miles in the current condition. They should have the facility to travel to you. When you speak with them, do not suggest any other possible cause. You need them to check their work before you contemplate any other action. No doubt you've spent over £1000 on the conversion so get that checked first.

Hi I would say its linked. It probably needs setting up again. I would just give them a ring, tell them its running rough and there is a warning light on and let them deal with it.

Hi Again Couldn't resist it, had to do a search - wonderful facility - and found what could be the solution in the following thread. Have a read and hopefully you will be fine. Please let us know how you get on. The thread is here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=52648

Hi Gabysgrandad and welcome to this vast resource. I hope since you posted that you have been ploughing through the search facility results. I have seen something similar posted by a 430 owner before. My own expertise lies in the Scorpion T5000 fitted to many MKIII LS400's. Is the light on in the boot when you open it? There is a thought in my mind that the car battery may be flat. The solution to the problem if that is the case is definately in a thread on here.

Hi Post the issues and full details of the car. We can sort it from there.

Hi again. It appears that the pipes can be replaced relatively easily http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=69654&st=0&p=735861&hl=steering&fromsearch=1entry735861

Hi. It does sound like low PAS. Those marks on the dipstick are correct - just top up to the appropriate mark. If its very low, the reservoir will have bubbles in it immediately after turning the wheels a couple of turns. Is there any evidence of fluid leaking?

Am I right in thinking that the MKs I & II are more prone to alternator issues caused by PAS fluid? Or is it wishful thinking on my part. Mine has always leaked, even after repair, but, touch wood, hitherto no alternator issues. Just as well really as daughter's MK3 Vauxhall Astray eats an alternator and battery every year.

Hi If the alternator is performing ok, I would be tempted to leave it for now. If it fails or its appearance really has got the better of you then you should remove it from the car and take it apart with a view to replacing the brushes. I can't remember the stuff I used in the past - some long-winded name for an industrial solvent with a rapid evaporation rate. (Something like dextrochloride????). If I was going to do it today I would most likely use meths and a nail/toothbrush and finish off by blowing it with compressed air. If you try and clean it on the car, muck will get inside it and you will still have to take it apart. By all means gunk the outside of the case but definately leave the inside to meths or even WD40.

For £400 I would go for it more than £200 in parts there genuine( seems a bargain to me) Absolute bargain

Having just said he's not been posting, I immediately thought that he had done and was non-too pleased. Is there anyway of commiserating with the guy that wrote the tutorials?

There is a thread here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=59279&st=0&p=656832&hl=cooling&fromsearch=1entry656832 which you contributed towards. You could pm thermoacc. No point in waiting for him to post a reply, he's not been on since September 2009.

As you will have seen from the links I have provided, I would not remove the EGR pipes; I would clean and or replace them having checked engine mounts 1st. The reason I say this is because I have not as yet seen anything definitive relative to this car. I do know that removing them on some other makes can have consequences because the EGR valve is controlled by the engine ECU. So for example at idle or full throttle the EGR valve would not be required but would be between these extremes. At the same time as calling for the operation of the EGR, the ECU sets the timing advance and mixture expecting the EGR to be operating. This could lead to hot and/or rough running and resultant fault codes. The imported vehicles that have no EGR will also have a different ECU. Logic would say that in blanking off the EGR, any issues could be avoided with the fitting of one of these ECU's. As I've said, I do not know of anyone that has taken this action on this car/engine and thus recommending this is beyond my confidence. As to whether living with the current condition is an option, I suspect it will be down to how intrusive the noise becomes and whether this has a bearing on an MOT.

Have a search on here to satisfy yourself regarding the cambelt as it has been changed to 100k. Steve, guys, I would like a definitive answer on this too please. There seems to be some contention with this; the Lexus chap who writes on here sometimes ............... would you know the definitive answer and also, what the risks really are if the mileage / time limit are exceeded. Thanks. Malc See this link which discusses the issue at length http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=65633&st=0&p=711799&hl=+cam%20+belt%20+change&fromsearch=1entry711799

This link has a link within it that should help http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=69538&st=0&p=735191&hl=+egr%20+pipe&fromsearch=1entry735191

Yes that would be the downpipe. If you haven't already done so, please spend some time using the search facility. Much has been discussed about exhausts. There are no "pattern" parts but I have contributed to a thread or 2 to resolve this problem. Are you absolutely sure its the pipe itself? Its more likely to be the flanges, which as you will see from the searches, do fail after time/mileage. If you haven't yet made this determination, please do so as the cost will be comparably negligeable. The other thing to check before having £000's worth of exhaust are the EGR pipes. Located behind the engine and not visible from under the bonnet, the failure of these can be confused with a blown downpipe. Flanges or EGR, no new CAT. Cannot comment on the firm you have sourced as I have not heard of them before.

Have a search on here to satisfy yourself regarding the cambelt as it has been changed to 100k.

See my comments below

If it was an LS400, you would have paid this for the belt replacement alone. For those of us who have paid a fortune for the belt job, draw comfort from the fact that the A/C compressor is serviceable and that the more modern cars have a clutchless and unserviceable compressor which costs circa £1700 to replace. Win some etc