SteveLS400

A poor battery definitely caused problems on MK IV, check VSC warnings on startup and occasional crash of the EMV with a frozen display, all cured with a new battery. Richard Every day's a school day. Don't suppose my radio backlight issue could be cured with a new battery though

Hi Stupot Unless you're on a hill, the car should move off at tick-over or fractionally above. You were right to walk away from it on that point alone. Fortunately, you were aware having had autos, but the uninitiated could have fallen for this one. I too have had many autos and the gearbox on these cars is amazingly smooth in comparison. Also, highly unlikely that a poor battery would result in electrical issues. More likely lack of care and maintenance. The boot leaking has been an issue for some owners and there are various solutions of which a replacement seal is one. Don't let this seller put you off one of the best cars in the world.

Hi. It drives everyone mad so you aren't alone. What type of remote do you have? This is not as strange a question as it may sound. For example, MKIII's had a system fitted by the dealer and some have replaced this with a new system. Consequently, you can't necessarily assume the system on your car is standard. Has the remote ever worked? Did you get any instructions when you bought the car (written or verbal)? Is there anything on the car to indicate the make/model of system such as a window sticker? You could try describing the remote or better still take pictures of it and upload them - instructions are available by searching - or you could upload them to photobucket and just provide a link for us. Once the type of system is identified, getting sorted should be ok.

Do you happen to know which security system is fitted to your car? As far as I know, they were not factory fitted - certainly not in the MKIII anyway. Also, do you have any instructions for the system? I'm assuming not. They would probably tell you how to re-set the fob to the car. I have searched this forum and found nothing useful. Rather than start stripping the car, have a look at the fob 1st. Is the battery in it still good? Did mum accidently change a setting on it? Did she inadvertantly press it that hard the button is somehow stuck? It could be purely coincidence that it started to play up after mum borrowed the car. Are all the doors, boot etc all shut correctly and nothing fouling the sensors?

May be the question was too hard! I was the 1st to vote but didnt add to the thread. Clear front and side indicators Tinted rear lights

When I started this topic, I was hoping that someone had taken the unit apart and located exactly why and what do be able to determine if I could rectify the problem myself. Its clearly not as simple as a blown bulb and the possibility of a loose connection is remote. It therefore points to some sort of capacitor and/or a dry joint. Anyone who has had out the main instrument cluster will know that these things are packed with circuit boards and trying to determine which one is at fault is devil of a job. So I wondered if anyone had either done the job and be willing to share the info, or had some sort of exploded diagram indicating the various functions of the parts.

If cost is the issue, go PM Benfur for used. No doubt it is a :tsktsk: to get off, but if you have tools that fit, give it a go.

I get 25000 from my tyres. On a good run, driving at speed limits and without racing starts/stops I get 32. In town this drops to 20. If you drive like a boy racer you can half these.

Fair enough. In that case I would check the oil level and then try the car, stereo off, all windows down and listen and feel. Any noises from the transmission or jerks in the drive and I WOULD lay it up until another diff can be fitted. If all seems good, treat it gently.

I can't see what difference being automatic would make. If a welded diff could blow an auto, it could blow a manual. I can understand your reluctance. Do you have any history of the repair? If its just been done and you don't know why/trust it then I would get a replacement. If it was done 10's of 000's of miles ago then its likely to be fine. No doubt Benfur (a fellow LOC member) would have a replacement and Simon Taylor has a breaker at present. PM them.

It didn't seem to be a loose connection. And its been fine until today. It was working then after I reversed on the drive the stereo lighting was out. it was still lightish outside. I also could swear I saw the heater backlight flicker before I turned the engine off.

It goes back to what I said earlier. Only you know if you can live with the cost of not having it. No one is going to cover the stuff that wears out and should be replaced under the service plan or the owner due to wear & tear. Makes sense to ring Lexus and the next best to determine whats covered/excluded. It will be in the small print.

Hi they will only fit on a mark1 or 2, they wont clear the callipers on a mark3 or4. Looks like I am either going to sell them or make them fit, does anyone have a list or do they know what wheels fit what model from another model or a different make of car Steve. You can work it out from this link http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html and if the maths aren't right and if you value any aspect of the car you would like to fit them to, dont. My mate insisted his old Supra wheels would fit his new (to him) Merc. 15 mins later it was a write off.

There are 2 decisions to make. Do I need/want warranty? Can I get it cheaper? Warranty is insurance. Insurance provides money when something that might happen, actually does. Dealing with the 2nd issue 1st. Warranty can be purchased independantly. Here is but 1 example http://www.knowyourmoney.co.uk/car-warranty/?ad=y&be=y which could provide a saving over the Lexus own cover. Try that 1 then Google "car warranty insurance" and plough down the alternatives. I suspect you will be able to obtain cover at a price you are happy with. As with any car, something could go wrong. It may be a Lexus, but parts wear out. Many of these parts are changed at scheduled services and you will have to pay for those in any case. To determine if you need/want cover, you have to decide how much you are prepared to pay for non-scheduled parts replacement. Take an example of, say, the aircon. The old pumps - such as on my car - have a clutch which disengages the pump when at rest/not in use. This type of pump has a service kit available at minimal cost. Newer systems probably like yours are not serviceable and do not dis-engage. The unit is always running. A replacement will cost you the thick end of £2k. This is just 1 example. Only you know what expense you could live with. Due to the relative newness of the 460, I don't think there's a list of known issues. There is also a limited supply of used parts. No doubt someone more knowledgeable than me could define some issues for you to judge. I've also no doubt that some would advise against extened warranties of any kind. A few things to consider anyway.

Not personally as I have a MKIII but this topic is well covered so please spend a while using the search facility with various keywords although "sat nav" might be sufficient.

Hi Simon Thank you for that pdf. It would appear that jockmonkey is missing the wiring to the door handle/barrel thus rendering the central locking unworkable. I thought that with a door card removed we could see just what it is that is missing. It sounds as if his door handle has been replaced without the necessary connections. Notwithstanding that he hasn't had chance to respond to my post earlier today, I'm not certain as to what he will need; it could be he has all the wiring and needs a handle, or the handle is fine and he needs the wiring, or he needs both. Until your post, I wasn't aware that the door had its own ECU. So in answer to your question, what parts are needed to operate the central locking with the key? The remote operation is irrevellant until the c/l works.

Have a look at this tutorial which is to replace the outer handle on an early LS400 http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorhandle.html A you can see, there is a connector. Without power to this there is no central locking. I assumed that yours had not been reconnected or had some how fell off. If there is definately no wiring present then a new handle is not going to solve the problem. When someone disconnects a wire, they often tie it up out of the way or even tape it up. I've certainly done it. If you could find the connecter or even the wires then a replacement handle would be worthwhile. Simon Taylor who has already contributed to this thread, has a scrapper at the moment. Benfur, another member, breaks these for a living. If there is definately no sign of the apprpriate wiring, then either of these guys might be able to offer more comprehensive ideas and/or wiring and handle. Ive only had my door card off to sort a window issue and so didnt need to study the wiring. It is likey that after the loom enters the door, it splits to provide the various functions - windows, speakers and central locking. You could obtain some or all of the internal wiring and either replace yours in its entirety or just that part you need. Simon may respond in this thread but I would PM both guys. If you give them your colour code you might even get a handle (if needed) of the correct colour.

Are there no wires inside the door at the bottom or even tucked up the top?

Only because I didn't have a mower :winky: I remember one night just pulling on the drive with a van load for the south coast (full day out) and the heater hose went. Managed to by-pass it after a couple of hours bugrin about. Covered the windscreen but set off at 6 a.m this time of year with blankets round my legs and wearing a couple of pairs of thermals. Frozen all the way and back.

Good stuff and thanks for the feedback.

If you are paying five and a half grand for a motor, a couple of hundred quid really aint an issue. Or have I missed something? Its like paying £25 for a rib of beef and being :tsktsk: off about 20p of gravy.

Too right :winky:

I agree about the storage costs - unless they can be accomodated in the garage/garden. With regard to the conditions, I seem to think that the weather at the begining of last year was sufficiently cold to prompt similar comments and in less than 12 months it happenned again. It has however been a bit colder this time - its cracked our pan in the outside loo. Whilst I live in south Lincs these days, I grew up on the border of S Yorks and NE Derbys. I dont recall it myself but I remember my parents talking about the winters of 1947 and 1963. What I do recall since I started driving in 75 was that my mother's road was always a nightmare eg 1 Mini stuck because the wheels didn't reach the bottom of the ruts in the snow eg 2 taking dads car broadside down their street. I also remember the winter of 78/79 and having to abandon the car after getting stuck in the snow in Holmesfield after trying to dig it out for an hour and half. That was a Wednesday night; on the Saturday my mate and I went to find it. Occaisionly you could see the roof of a car 7 or 8 feet below where we were walking. We never found it which was fortunate because I have know idea what we could have done. I got the car back 2 weeks later. When I moved to Lincs on 28 Dec 81, my new lawn had 4 inches of snow; I had just left 4 feet of the stuff! The point being is that in terms of snow and ice, this last bout has not been particularly remarkable and for those that can afford the tyres and storage it appears to me to be a no-brainer. My ordinary tyres appear to be made from solid material in the cold.

Ive just spent a while searching both here and on the Engine & Transmission sub forum. There's a ton of stuff on the latter and I only searched "start." There's too much to provide a useful link in this post without more info regarding the car before the battery charging.

Hi and welcome. Even when my starter was at deaths door, it would eventually eventually engage. If yours is turning over normally it is unlikely to be the starter motor. Why did you have to recharge the battery? It is likely that whatever led to the need to recharge the battery is the root cause of the problem now. It will be worthwhile checking the diagnostics before involving yourself in costs. Familiarize yourself with the search facility whilst waiting for a more detailed response.