redz_UK

swap the perm and ign live on the JVC loom.. they 'should' be shrouded in clear plastic with connectors underneath

it can with the right speaker and room for it to breath.. bass in a saloon isnt as easy as a hatch!! more power needed for the same results.. check this post here for the sat nav bypass box.. nav bypass thread only take a few mins to make and around £10..

the harmon is a nice amp but not too impressed with the rest!! any chance of you getting the 470?? @vvprotocol - imo, yes.. think about most home set ups.. you only use two speakers at the front.. unless its an av set up and then the rears are only effect speakers and not used when playing music.. i will be adding some small rears into the c pillar when i go 5.1 surround but the 6x9's are staying out.. thats where the subs port through..

you will kill the amp mate try the pab2100 - think this is about £160 and a set of comps for the front - pvi 216 (would need to check if these will fit) or the shallow mount ones (rua) think these are about £200.. then another pab2100 £160 and either the reference sub or premium sub upto £180 your looking at about £700 but some tweaking and bartering and i should be able to get you some dealings closer to your original budget!! you will also need to budget for some dynamat for the front doors at a minimum (especially if you want SQ), power cabeling and baffles (unless you make your own) so about another £100 there.. i really suggest listening to a set up with rears to convince you to lose em mate.. we could do a mini meet if your eager to get started so you can listen to mine?

1. you can but you run the risk of blowing the amp if its not 2ohm stable.. also sq will be terrible if your rears are running the same volume as the fronts. 2. again, you will prob blow the amp. run the amp at what its meant to be run at. the only way to do it if you insisted would be to run two speakers per channel in series.. then you just split the power over each speaker! (i would be surprised if you need more than 50w rms per channel. That is a good figure to be aiming at unless you want it loud. if so then 75w rms is enough.. most speakers will struggle with much more or will just sound pants.) 3. yes. is a common set up. ie the jl 300/4 using 2x 75w rms over 2 channels and 150w rms on the sub. some amps have 5 channels just for this ie the jl500/5 4. depends on the amp! use the rms rating as the most accurate although some do overrate them using unrealistic voltage ie alpine rate everything at 14.4v which rarely happens in your car on a standard elect system. 5. there are parameters that you can put into a program called bbp6 (bass box pro 6) although itsvery easy to get wrong so its much easier to pay somebody to build it or if you buy from a decent shop they will build the box or supply the dimensions. Some manufacturers also put these in your box ie JL MB Quart etc..

Thanks for your help mate gonna play around with everything on monday and hopeful a solution would come from it. was having a look at the wiring and im guessing its just a way of getting some power to the screen any way done a few ICE installs in the Lex so ill have a play around. ?? do you have all of the loom running to the screen then? if so you should have a loom on the stereo that requires the bypass on it..

Hi,made a fairly accurate rough quote still need to find out a definate price for the engraving but I think they will come in at £ 11.00 all in, if that sounds ok I we can do them same as before first pay first get ? Regards Graham. i would be quite happy without the engraving tbh.. can you send a finished version back with my AC unit so i can post pictures?

£500 might just about get you the amps mate.. if you want to use the optical out the you are looking at processors, more cables and a lot more money!! i would use two amps or a good 5 channel the jl 500/5 but it wont be cheap. i dont really rate alpine unless its the top end stuff TBH. ona budget look at the mb quart pab2100but its only two channel.. if you went for this and a good set of speakers like the pvh 216then you def wouldnt need the rears especially if you you have a sub too.using a second one of these bridged into a single sealed sub will give you very good SQ. for abit more volume and weight in the sub then there is always a good hifonics sub and amp combo.. if you come to the meet on 17th then can you can have a look at some systems..

i would guess that it works as normal with the hu being used to poll for the canbus system.. i would suggest builidng the bypass box here: info for the sake of about £10 its worth a shot..

i agree.. if we keep changing dates to suit everybody it will never happen! lets stick to 17th??

check the ground lead.. the wire being too thin shouldnt make it cut out but the wire may get hot and melt/catch fire!! although this shouldnt happen with the correct fuses. oh, and a 1100w amp would need 0gauge so im guessing its not rms power which is prob the same as the new one.. No, don't think its rms power, just whats written on the top of the amp. I've checked the ground and it seems to be quite securely attatched to the bodywork. Also, the ground for the LEDs it attached to the same bit and never turns off. It seems to turn off too if I turn it up to loud, then it cuts off. Could it be the vibrations that are loosening the ground wire? Where is the best place to attach the ground? Thanks could be overheating or impedance too low/high or speaker damaged..

check the ground lead.. the wire being too thin shouldnt make it cut out but the wire may get hot and melt/catch fire!! although this shouldnt happen with the correct fuses. oh, and a 1100w amp would need 0gauge so im guessing its not rms power which is prob the same as the new one..

i think you are being a bit short sighted here mate.. Why would JVC UK want to give you support on a US model?it does them no good to support you buying a product from another country as it doesnt add any value to their business and just causes headaches with customer service when things go wrong. Some business offer worldwide warranties but normally only on portable units ie ipods, mobile phones etc.. Grey imports are the bane of all industrys.. if you want full support, warranty and confidence that it will work 100% then buy a UK spec unit. a US uniyt wont have the correct radio frequencies and will be region locked.

sorry mate.. try again! lanzar used to make some decent stuff back in the days but was never great. as for 'valour' i wouldnt. audiobahn seem to fit your theme.. not as good as hifonics and not a brand i would normaly recommend but certainly one you can trust.idyou buy cheap then you will certainly buy again! link

phoenix goldstuff is terrible these days..they soldthe name on and its all just mass produced in the far east with no quality.. silver/blue.. i would say look at the hifonics 25th anniversary editition..amp ;)

Ahh, my bad should have spotted that! Yep then stuff from the US must be quite well priced for you at the mo (and probably from the UK too I'd imagine) Yeah i was actually looking at it in the uk first but works out about 100 euro cheaper if i get it from the states including all the shipping costs, and so far its looking like it will work fine here, just waiting for a confirmation email and no warranty when buying grey imports..

you may be able to use some sort of ntsc/pal conversion box although you will lose quality.. good excuse to buy a new TV!

Kenwood make some great head units but JVc is a great budget alternative whilst it wont have the same sq, features and connectivity as the top of the range stuff.. in mid range the 810 is a great unit. the newer 820 has the bluetooth built in and is on offer here >> 820 link the big thng here for those wanting to use amps is the 5v prepouts which both of the JVC's have but only the top end ones from kenwood. at 400 euros i would question where form as that is well below the trade price... as for car pc.. some great stuff you can do but will be VERY hard to get good sound quality and would cost as much of not more to do this..You also need to be quite IT savvy to fix it when it inevitably goes wrong(unless you use a mac mini!!) For most people until there is a double din one box soloution it wont be an option. Although we are close to having a 2box soloution availiable in the open marketplace. to close.. if you can afford the extra the kenwood 8220 is the big dog of incar AV. an extremely close second £for£ an extremely good option it has to be the JVC

that weekend is great for me too!!

yes. it has one aux in.

you only have one aux in mate.. if you wanted to connect both then you would need to use some kind of switcher..

no problem.. we all start somewhere!! :winky:

Who told you they make units for toyota? they may make units that look oem, quiet a few of the far east companies do this as well as copying well known brands, but they dont make for toyota. I seeloads of these companiesat trade shows.. there was even one at Gadget Show Live this weekend.. (big dissapointment) Its very easy to be led to believe something from the way that they are portrayed on the net. The simple rule is if it appears cheap, i prob is!! If you bought your stuff form a shop then shame on them for telling you this.. The good news is that you have your gear and can get on with enjoying it but when you decide to change you know where to come for advice! :>

lol.. i like the 'angry face' lighting effect!

they really need a good amp on there own to do them any justice.. JL 300/2 or 300/4 if you want to run rear fill.. if you only use one 4 ch amp you wont really get enough power for a sub. being a saloon means you loose a lot of volume beacuse of the bulkhead. a 500/1 with decent sub will match this too. the alt if your not after loud is the 500/5. 2x100 rms(front) 2 x 25 rms(rear or tweeters if you go active) 1 x 250 rms(sub) with a sealed sub.