redz_UK

lol.. i have never heard budget gear compared to sheeplove but can seethe comparsion its all baaaaaaaahhhd if your not fused about dvd then you can get some great HU that will accept ipod/usb and do BT prob for a lot less than you think.. HU

the parrot mki9200 will be cheaper but soundquality will suffer.. this will cost around £250 if i remember correctly and if you can find somebody that will fit it in the lexus (some places refuse becuase of the amplified system) your other option is a Double din HU but your looking at around £500 +fitting to get all the features you want with a good head unit. if your not to fussedon teh HU you nay get all of this for under £500 but you will be sacrificing quality

mate, sorry to see this.. but on the bright side good chance to start another project!! im sure you can sellloads of the mods to give you a good bit of cash towards the next one..

mate something doesnt add up here.. you have a single voice coil sub and a 4 ch amp thats bridgeable across two channels givngh you either 2x600w (about 2 x 150rms) or 1 x 600 + 2 x300w (1x 150rms +2 x 75 rms) will you be runnin the sub of one channel and nothing on the other? if the handling spec of the sub is correct (which i seriously doubt being inphase) then you will be seriously underpowering it and risk damaging it all??

theres cel on welford rd.. think they have em in..

hey, here is a good review on the jvc 810, your ipod will work with this unit but you would need to by an extra cable (ks-u20) think they are around 35 pound, will let you control your ipod from the radio screen and can also have bluetooth with the ks-bta200, i think its around 90 pound http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YBlT1O3eoGR/p...-KW-AVX810.html thats a great link mate, thanks very much. seems as if it will definitely support the 1st gen ipod touch so thats wicked!!! look slike it might eb this that i go for then, although the pioneer unit (p4000) is the best looking IMHO. i guess i could add bluetooth at a later date and maybe a tv tuner so the missus can watch tv on the go (heaven forbid she misses an episode of coronation street!!!! :shutit: ) mate, go into a store to check this as JVC say its not supported..

i could be wrong but u think only the kenwoods have reverse tilt so that they tilit in instead of out??

where u getting it from mate?? whats the best price u've found on it?? i know the jvc unit has a removable front plate, but don't think it has the screen tilt function or bluetooth (but that can be added)?? it does have screen tilt but you will prob never use it..i dont on mine! can add BT but your looking about another £90..

new battery and unless you get a big one then you will have problems. also need some good O gauge, big 3 and a voltmeter..

r cont is the remote control interface lead that goes to oem steering wheel controls when u have em.. the one you have used is correct

the wrong impedance is unlikely to stop speakers working unless the amp has a cut out on, it may however blow the ampif its not stable at anything than its rated impedance. connecting the twowires together will just send the amp crazy as your sending the signal into and out of the amp! again this could blow the amp. i would have suggested doing exactly what you did as it sounds like there was a break some where.. feels good when you figure it out yourself though! well done..

thats fairly standard for any brand mate.. what did you get? just ground that cable and all will be fine..

Ahh, ok cool sounds good then. £90 for all the fronts is a lot cheaper than I was thinking I'd need to pay, would that give me a significant improvement in sound quality? (the benchmark is the Merc HK system, that's the reason the Lexus sounds inadequate now) If that doesn't, how much do I need to spend to get that sort of quality? Don't really have a budget yet, that's partly what this thread is for as I don't really have a clue when it comes to car audio - I know what sounds good and what doesn't, but I'm totally lost when it comes to actually creating that sound! When you say quality install, does that mean I shouldn't do it myself? Or did you mean things like baffles and dynamat, etc.? And is the baffle something you replace or add on? If added on won't an extra 18mm mean the door card won't fit anymore? Sorry if these questions are dumb, I am on a relatively steep learning curve right now :) if you want a real stepup then you would need to replace the HU and amp! i would say circa £500 would be a good starting point but could easily be £1k + the baffle replace the plastic mount that the oem speakers are on, so door card fits fine.

Cheers for that mate, so the dynamat makes that much of a difference? Definitely something to do then if I get around to replacing the speakers. What are baffles and what to they do (sorry for my ignorance)? Those speakers seem very well priced (a lot less than I was expecting to need to spend), the pics are conflicting though, is it for all the fronts or just one side (i.e. 2 or 4 speakers)? Never heard of MB Quart before, are they the sort of speaker that's good for the price, or just good full stop? And is installation pretty straightforward or does it require a bit of work? MB Quart have been around for a long time and make some of the best speakers around! the Q series are teh top range stuff but can fur into 4 figures for them! These are obviously a cheaper variant and runing of the stock system will be fine. With any speaker though its the install that makes the difference. You could spend more and go up in the range if you are thinking of adding an aftermarket amp in the future but if budget is tight, then go for a cheaper speaker and spend the money on a quality install for them.. you get 2 sets of speakers, 6.5" and a tweeter. a baffle is what the speaker fits to. you can ,make your own out of 18mm MDF using the oem mounts as a template.

good mdf baffles and a bit of dynamat behind the speaker and on the panel will make a as much diff as the spkr these mb quart should do you nicely..

possibly direct from jvc but it wont be cheap... as for the wires.. all of em! you will need to match each one up to. I go back to my other post and say you should have bought from the uk mate.. gonna be a lot of hassle..

i take it thats not a uk specunit? thats doesnt look like its got the UK ISO plug in the end so you may have to solder all of the leads onto the bypass cable..

they sold you insurance AFTER identifying that it was damaged? and now your going to claim on that policy? You do know thats fraud dont you?

Hi have found that if you use a small flat screw driver with some tape around the end so as not to scratch it they should com off,but dont worry about scratches as i can polish them out. I HAVE given a pretty good idea on the price as £11.00 ish all in . Regards Graham Graham, as soon as you send the prototype back i will post pics and start the group buy to operate the same way as before. There was a large number people interested but due to your personal situation and us not hearing from you i stopped it. Im sure there will be as many people wanting these as the rings.. Cheers

i cant use that version of the wiring diagram as im on my mac but will check tomorrow on my pc. that does sound right stevie.. ihave to say that if the old HU worked fine then the ign live was working fine..

take the ign feed of the orignal loom then.. its in there and what it should be used for..

there should be a graphics properties icon next tothe time on the menu bar.. click on this and there should be an icon to rotate screen..

very poorly designed lead.. im sure others havent had the same problem..

lol.. some kind of crazy logic!! would have been so much better without them in at all.. there is a theory of a limited narrow midrange band for rear fill (cant remember what its called but begins with H) but needs some serious testing time and equipment to get it right.. im more than happy to demonstrate what im talking about any time you see me at meets..

you could bridge the 4 ch to give more headroom...