NEV72

Try regular dousing of the nut with coca-cola. beleieve it or not can loosen a rusty, heat treated nut and bolt, a trick I learned working on power stations when we couldn't find ant realease oil, also using longish tubes over the spanners therefore extending leverage, might just crack it (lol) hope this helps Nev :winky:

Hey That is great to read. I had my 2001 IS200 converted 3 years ago. Had huge problems with stalling eventually always when cold, plus big loss of power, and last year they fitted new valves and valve seats, which in addition to fitting 6 new coil packs, due to incorrect diagnosis of the stalling problem cost me the thick end of £3000. I therefore thought I was being super cautious when I took the car in again yesterday, but sure enough there is wear on at least 2 valves....they are now doing the repair under warranty, and fitting a FLASH LUBE KIT. It is great to know that yours has done nearly 90,000 miles since the flash lube installation. The problem on mine got chronic probably after around 20,000 miles. I was thinking I would have to get rid. Quite a few people it seems who are are thinking of converting to LPG, have the dilemma of whether or not to fit a Flashlube system, some LPG conversion centres reccomend it and some don't, personally after spending nearly £2000 having mine done, an extra £60 to add the Flashlube system protecting the valves and valve seats is a no brainer, and certainly gave me peace of mind. For those who are thinking of, or who have had the Flashlube fitted though, I found this bit of info which came from Prins, makes for good reading. "Re: Flashlube System: VSI – Autogas Flashlube:Regarding the effects of to much Flashlube and the effects on Lambdas. From field experience appeared that a wrong Flashlube dosage can lead to an incorrect lambda signal. A too high dosage of Flashlube can cause a slow working or even a not at all working lambda probe. It is possible that the lambda probe shows a wrong mixture (lean in stead of the actual mixture). In this case the self learning values (fuel trims) will go out of range. It is even possible that an error code will be set (mixture too lean) or that the catalytic converter will be damaged. This phenomenon appears mostly after starting with a warm engine or in case the engine has been on idle for a longer period (highest under pressure -> biggest amount of Flashlube). Prins advises, in case Flashlube is fitted, to guard the quantity (dosage) of Flashlube attentively. Adjustment regulation manufacturer: At idling speed: 12 drops per minute. Average consumption should be 1 ml per liter fuel (compare, after filling up with fuel, the used amount of Flashlube with with the filled up amount of fuel)." Funnily enough a couple of weeks ago my VSC light and Engine light both came on together, took it to Lexus who banged it on their diagnostic comp, told me it was running lean but on the LPG side, so I took it back to the LPG lads, 10 minutes and it was sorted. Hope this helps Nev :winky:

Reminds me of the van from Dumb & Dumber :D Talking of the van from Dumb and Dumber, I came across this today. http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m10/NEV...to_292281_7.jpg. A virtual pint goes to the first person that recognises what the car is, Nev :winky:

The mk2 mirror is a tad smaller than the mk1, as shown in the pic, also the mk1 is more square than the mk2, I reckon you've cracked it, (lol) with the rx400 mirror mate. :winky:

Aye tell me about it, I've heard so many conflicting reports about changing the lights, I was hoping that maybe someone who had succsesfully done the Halogen to Xenon conversion to an RX might post?

Driving back down from Derby last week, I noticed that on some of the very dark and unlit rural stretches of the M5 I managed to "lose the road," when putting the lights from full beam to dip so as not to dazzle oncoming cars, this is something I don't remember doing in my old Omega Elite, due to the fact it had Xenon headlights fitted as standard, and were much brighter both on dip and full beam (IMO) So I'm now thinking of converting my RX halogens over to Xenon headlights, and was wondering if anyone in here has done this for theirs, how they went about doing it, and what they had to buy to convert. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Cheers Nev

There are lots of people who will do cheap LPG kits, that’s not what is offered above, these are good value prices with all new equipment, fitted by an LPGA approved fitter and with a certificate that you will need for insurance purposes, using second hand tanks etc will mean you cannot get a certificate. Also note that when you've had your conversion done, you need to send off your certificate to DVLA ( I advise you do this by registered post, as they lost mine and it cost £30.00 for a replacement one.)so they can add LPG on to your v5, making your car duel fuel. Funnily enough my insurance company didn't request my certificate, I just told them over the phone when renewing my policy, that I'd had LPG added.Nev :winky:

50-60K For the cam belt to be changed sounds about right, I've just had my 40k service and was told it'll be done on my next service, it's a biggy mind, I've been quoted around £550 by my local Lexus dealer, you might want to enquire about the pre-paid service plans Lexus do.(check out the recent "pre-service plan" threads for more info) As for the noise from the wing mirrors, I can't say it's a big problem, and with the windows all up you hardly hear any outside noise whatsoever. Look out for corrosion on the alloys it's a common fault with most Lexus models not just the RX. The fuel economy isn't too bad either, although I added LPG to mine and I found it better still, and no difference in performance. Hope this helps Nev :winky: EDIT Have found some info on the cambelt change, on another site it seems that 90k or 72 months (6 years) is the reccommendation for inspection and change if needed, and seeing as mine will be 6 years old at the next service is possibly why my Lexus has told me mine will be checked. "I checked my Alldata database and found that Toyota/Lexus recommends replacing the timing belt on the 3.0-liter V6 engine in your '99 RX300 at 90,000 miles, as the dealer suggested. On '97 and earlier models, there's no routine replacement suggested, but on '98 models the recommendation is 90,000 miles or 72 months if the vehicle is operated under "severe conditions such as extensive idling and/or low speed driving for extended ranges." On 1999-2003 models, there's no "severe condition" standard, and the recommendation is to replace the timing belt every 90,000 miles or 72 months. Since the V6 in your truck isn't an interference engine, meaning the pistons won't hit open valves if the belt breaks, a belt failure will only leave you stranded and needing a tow and require the installation of a new belt, but it won't destroy the engine." Hope this helps Nev

Cheers Mark, Mike Much appreciated! Nev :winky:

The wifes uncle has earned a load of air miles from somewhere, and because he hasn't any need for them, he wants to give them to us, does anybody out there know if they are transferrable from one person to another? as I haven't got a clue, having never used them before, and seeing as I have 2 trips to Spain next year to sort out, I was hoping it might save a few bob. Cheers Nev. :winky:

Cymro, If it's right what you say, then Estherjon can take out a pre paid service plan with Lexus Exeter who quoted me £766.49, but get his local Lexus dealership to do the work?, even though my quotes for 3 services and not 4, I reckon he'd still be saving in the region of £1000 quid. I'm definately going to take them up on it, seeing as I was quoted around the mid £500 mark for my next big service.

Hope you lads don't mind, but I was Just reading through this thread, takes me back to when I was single venue rallying back in the mid eighties, under the R.A.C comp regs, and remembering how the scrutineering goes, I recall that the helmets required a clover leaf kite mark sticker on our helmets, is this not the case with sprinting? as it would be a bleeder to get scrutineered out cos of your helmet not being up to scratch.Just a thought Nev. :winky:

I'd give Toyota a ring and see if the cables in the Harrier are the same as the Lexus MK1 ones, maybe the MK11 also, possibly getting them at a cheaper price. Just a thought :winky:

Jon, Just found my Lexus service plan I received last week, must say yours does sound a little high compared to mine, and thats allowing for the fact they've quoted you for 4 services compared to my 3 Benefits they're offering me * Fixed labour costs for the duration of your plan protecting you from inflation * Your first M.O.T free of charge * Free puncture repairs * Free wheel balancing * Interest free affordable monthly payment plan * Free transfer of your existing plan to a new Lexus vehicle * Additional discounts off all our services and products The service plan will cover me for 3 services, starting 60,000 miles / 6yr for a total of £766.49 inc VAT, must admit it's rather tempting. 2 errors I've noticed though, is that I had my 40k service with them a couple of weeks ago and my next service is next year for the big 50k service, (timing belts etc,) and they've got my model being a 2003 onwards model, whereas it's actually a mk1 2003 model.Hope this helps Nev :winky:

Old detailing clay can get off specks of brake dust thats got onto the wheels, might be an idea to try the Blu-Tak that everyones been talking about using instead of detailing clay, still using some type of lubrication mind. :winky:

Hi LOZ -- I have had my ls400 put on LPG the cost was £2500.--a litre of gas is -49/56ppl compered to the price of petrol, the fuel consumption is the same as when on petrol, if your milege is 10,000 a year you can save over £1400. you must inform you Insurance Company and the D.V.L.A. of the change I have seen R.Rovers/Jags/Volvos/Mercs/Bmw's/and many more being converted,so your G.S. will be ok shelldrake Hi Loz, I recently had LPG put onto my RX, very impressed so far with the economy, and performance so far, I've done some calculations to work out savings you should get from converting to LPG based on 10,000 miles per year. AVERAGE DRIVING MILEAGE PER YEAR 10,000.00 AVERAGE MPG ON PETROL 26.00 AVERAGE MPG ON LPG 23.00 COST PER LITRE OF PETROL £1.00 COST PER LITRE OF LPG £0.55 PETROL COST PER GALLON OF PETROL £4.50 PETROL PER YEAR ( GALLONS ) 384.62 PETROL PER YEAR ( LITRES ) 1,730.77 COST PER MILE ( PETROL ) £0.17 ANNUAL COST ( PETROL ) £1,730.77 LPG COST PER GALLON (LPG ) £2.48 LPG PER YEAR ( GALLONS ) 434.78 LPG PER YEAR ( LITRES ) 1,956.52 COST PER MILE ( LPG ) £0.11 ANNUAL COST ( LPG ) £1,076.09 Monthly saving £54.56 Annual saving £654.68 Three year saving £1,964.05 Five year saving £3,273.41 Saving per mile £0.07 Hope this helps Nev ;)

A little tip I found useful is to keep a container of warm water handy, this is for when you need to reshape the clay so that you have a clean area for claying the car. Mainly because when its a cold day it's a pig to reshape, plus ice cold numb fingers don't seem to work either. Another tip I found to be handy is that when you are trying to mould the clay into shape, do it over the bonnet, because there's less chance of it accidently dropping it onto the floor, you might as well throw it away if it does, or if you're luckily it might be salvageable to clean burned in brake dust off alloys. Personally I prefer Bilt-Hamber Auto Clay,and they say you can use normal water to lubricate it, although I do use Meguiars Quik Detail when I can. Hope this helps Nev ;)

On a heavier (and larger) car like the RX, I think they would be too soft (not up to the job)...and IIRC even EBC don't recommend them for SUVs as they do their own dedicated SUV brakes (YellowStuff?). The red I would suggest for fast road use - but I have generally found the OE Toyota pads to be very good. A bit eager to dust, but they have never let me down or given me cause tho think they are fading too early etc. Having been doing a bit more research on the Green Stuff for my RX, I've found a place that sells EBC Pads, the colour coding for EBC starts with Black going up to race performance Blue. I'll post up the info regarding the colour coding it may help some. EBC BLACK EBC black coded brake pads are a high friction premium quality friction material approved to ECE R90 brake safety regulations and as such are an exact equivalent to original equipment pads fitted to your vehicle from the factory. When you buy EBC R90 replacement pads you are getting an exact equivalent to an original equipment pad for far less money. Don’t let the lower price point cloud your view of this superb quality product, these pads will stop your vehicle as fast as any original equipment pad and faster than most aftermarket pads. One brilliant feature of EBC R90 pads is their ability to completely eliminate brake judder and these pads will actually COMPENSATE for mild brake judder after 300-400 miles of use. Ultimax R90 Now also featuring EBC's unique Brake-In bed-in coating these pads offer superb brake effect up to normal motorway speeds and are a perfect replacement pad for cars and light commercial vehicles. As with all EBC pads, centre line slots to prevent cracking and noise, edge chamfers to further offfset noise and vibration are a standard feature of this quality pad. DPC Carbon for Light Commercial Vehicles For longer life in fleet type applications, EBC now offers more than double the life of standard pads with its new DPC range shown in the second upgrade column. GREEN STUFF EBC Green Stuff 2000 Designed for premium street driving offering better brake effect at loads and speed. EBC Greenstuff has a high initial brake effect and gives drivers confidence from first application of the brake pedal. There is no such thing as a NO DUST pad. The very nature of how a brake works requires that some dust be generated to avoid rotor vibration (shimmying). The EBC pad creates less dust and dust is more easily washed off than most. All pads create more dust as they are bedding in especially if rotors are worn. Features EBC Brake-In™ surface coating which conditions rotor surface and accelerates pad bed-in. EBC Description of Green Stuff. - "Greenstuff" is the name coined to describe our current sport automotive pad. A high friction Aramid based organic pad with very low metallic content that comes on strong from first application of the brake pedal, without disc damage and minimal brake dust. Recommended for road use and hillclimb only. Fast/Heavy Street Use - Brake well from cold - Effective to above 650°C - Lower dust formula EBC Green 6000 Series An excellent solution for 4x4 use, this heavy duty Greenstuff formulation has slightly lower friction than its 2000 series counterpart but has the benefit of longer life and better resistance to offroad conditions of dust and sand etc. It has an extremely low rotor wear factor and medium-to-good lifetime. EBC Green 7000 Series SUV Supreme For a small price premium over the 6000 series these pads are THE ULTIMATE SUV FRONT END PAD These pads will stop faster and last longer with almost zero brake dust and are EBC's premium offering for heavy 4x4s. These pads are GUARANTEED noise free. The features and benefits of this new SUV Supreme Range include. Chamfered and slotted. Factory shimmed with triple layer Wolverine shims. Coated with friction accelerator for fast bed-in. EBC Red Stuff Our semi metallic high performance road material made a flying start in saloon car racing, having clinched the Slick 50 Saloon Car Championship with the Honda of Ian Mitchell in 1997, with extensive use by many race teams going into 1999 on the Porsche 924 Championship cars and on European Citroen Saxo and BMW class racing. Now only recommended for road use in cars with 200BHP+. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with approx. 50% dust reduction compared to other pads. Since this material was introduced in late 2003, it has received many positive write ups from performance drivers of faster cars. This is a truly impressive fast road pad for repeated heavy braking. It emits far less dust than semi-metallic pads and has been proven to stop a saloon car 13 metres quicker than OEM pads from 100mph/160kph. Features EBC Brake-In™ surface coating which conditions rotor surface and accelerates pad bed-in. EBC Yellow Stuff “Yellowstuff” is the name for EBC’s latest full race formulation which is currently in race use in Europe and was the choice of 1999/2000/2001 series winners Nick Reynolds and Martin Bell in the BMW Class, Westfield and S2000 Championships in 2002. Yellow Stuff is now the official brake pad of the Subaru Challenge. Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on the highway as well as on the race track. This new formulation was used by numerous championship race and rally drivers in 2004 and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.6 with zero rotor damage EBC Blue Stuff Our endurance grade, longest lasting material "Bluestuff" has a slightly lower friction coefficient than its counterparts Green, Yellow and Red but delivers far longer life and is suitable for endurance races up to six hours in duration on most types of saloon cars. It is obviously the drivers responsibility to evaluate the lifetime before undertaking any types of race use. Endurance Grade - Closed circuit race only - Longer lifetime - Effective to over 800°C EBC Bluestuff is the longest lasting of the EBC brake pad materials family and is designed for heavier and faster sedans/passenger cars/muscle cars in track use. EBC Brakes has had great success using this material in longer races with the Australian touring car champion Peter Brock and in the UK on the Vauxhall Monaro driven by Matt Griffin and Phil Andrews, and in France on the Porsche 911 series. Bluestuff has a nominal friction coefficient of 0.55, good temperature stability up to 1000°F and higher, with significant lifetime making it capable of withstanding 3-5 hour duration races. So then I've now decided to go for the Green Stuff pads for mine, but as you can see there are 3 types the series 2000, series 6000 and series 7000 which are specially made for 4x4 SUV vehicles. I asked the chap at the shop if because I had the RX300 whether I ought to go for the 7000 series, but he told me that the 6000 would be totally adequate and I'd be wasting the extra money on the 7000's. The problem I do have though is that there is a choice of two types of pad for the rears. the type that is retained by a pin at the top (DP61397) or the type of pad that is retained by the left and right "ears" (DP6628) The front pads are no problem as there's only one type (DP61634) I'm thinking that the type I need are the ones with the "ears". Cheers Nev ;)

The wife did this a few months ago in the Omega diesel, luckily she realised her mistake before starting the car, unknown to most people you can drive with petrol in the diesel tank and most mechanics say its around the 17% - 20% mark, so what I did was to syphon all the fuel out and filled up the tank with diesel, started and ran no problem, something that the garages wanted to charge me about 400 quid for. A daft question I know but have you tried emptying the fuel tank, banging a couple of gallons of diesel back into it, you'll need to bleed the system before you try and start it. I doubt you could cause any more damage than you have done, and you never know it just may work, after all my mates running his diesel at the minute on ex cip shop cooking oil.

I'm guessing you used Lexus Exeter Bonita? The wife dropped the car off at Exter Lexus last Friday for it's 40k service, like you say they don't have that many courtesy cars, but listen to this, she was given the return bus fare to go into Exeter while she waited the 3 hours for the car to be serviced, I must say I've never heard of that happening before.

Thanks for your reply Anees Interesting what you say about the Red Stuff pads mind, considering this is what the seller reckons. "THE RED STUFF BRAKE PADS, ALTHOUGH A FULL RACE MATERIAL CAPABLE OF HIGH TEMPERATURE USE WITH VERY GOOD WEAR LIFE, THIS NEW FORMULATION SETS A NEW TREND IN RACE TYPE PAD COMPOUND. THE BITE FROM COLD IS SUPERB WHICH UNCOMMON WITH OTHER RACE TYPE MATERIALS WHICH NORMALLY REQUIRE WARM UP. THEY PROPERLY GRIP THE BRAKES AND LAST A LOT LONGER!!!! THEY DONT EVEN NEED TO BE BEDDED IN BECAUSE THEY WORK AS SOON AS THEY ARE FITTED,SO YOU CAN SLAM YOUR BRAKES WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT THEM BEING JUST NEW!!!!!" By the way I've been told to avoid Mintex stuff by a chap at Kwik-Fit as he reckons they're total crap. I'd like to hear from other RX members in here so I can get a better idea of which pads to go for. Cheers Nev

Been a member of this site for quite a while now, thought I'd post it up for any members who might be interested in joining up. www.f1competition.com Nev ;)

Just had the car in for a service today, and it was noted that the brake pads, front and rear have worn down a fair bit and will soon need replacing. I've been looking at buying the EBC Green Stuff pads, also saw Red Stuff pads too. I want to try and upgrade from the OEM pads if I can, and was wondering if anyone in here had had any experience in using Green Stuff, I've also seen on Ebay on their American sites, ceramic pads. any views on these also? Cheers in advance Nev

There ya go mate, this site might help in your quest it is an American site though, so ratings could be different to the ours in the U.K. http://www.1010tires.com/tirereviews/Pirel...re_reviews.html Hope it helps Nev ;) P.S that little yellow fellas got to ya hasn't he lol