fil4362

It could just be that the snow where you are is fluffier than normal and condensation has messed up your electrics. Thats what the channel tunnel guys are using as an excuse. Anyway theres some pretty agresive answers on here that are making me laugh so keep them up guys its fun. Especially the ones that are wrong. The traction control does not cut the spark off it may retard the timing it also may limit the engine revs by over ruling the throttle pertensiometer but it definaly does not cut the spark off. If your traction control cuts in and your engine stalls your cars not working. My traction control doesnt kill my engine i know i have tried it, i can keep my foot planted whilst left foot braking keeping the wheels spinning as long as i like or for a much as the trc will let me but mine engine doesnt stall. Imagine the senario. your sitting at a junction just about to turn left. The roads abit icey but your traction control gives you piece of mind. You look both ways nothing so you pull out as you emerge past the parked car on your left you see some fool bearing down on you. you decide to go for it as your way out of the junction by now, you put your foot down in panic your traction control kicks in oooohhhhhh no your engines just been turned of by the traction control now your really stuck. You have a fool speeding towards you and you just stalled your car and your in the middle of a junction. This situation is exactly why theres nothing on any car which will ever make your car stall. TRC is a saftey device designed to keep you safe, killing your engine therefore power assisted steering goes as well no engine no steering is not a saftey device. So i say it again if your trc stalls your car your trc doesnt work or you cant drive. Having said that the new bmw has a realy stupid system that turns your engine of everytime you stop and then restarts it again for you but this is an enviromental thing not a saftey thing. So to drive round in the snow leave any or all electronic aids turned on, drive gentley and smoothly on the controls dont get into trouble in the first place and you will be fine.

Cars live most their life in the realm of "worn", this is a period where it's not new nor is it worn out. In an ideal world all the bushings would be replaced and the suspension would be new. The problem is the term "worn to excess", at what point does excess become a reality? it's opinionated. "worn to excess" as laid down by VOSA is worn to the point its about to fall off. That is what we always get told when we question the term worn to excess. As a rule, again by VOSA standards , (as pointed out to me on my last refresher course aprox 3 months ago) a vehicle serviced acording to correct intervals, should be about 80/90% of its original condition. To pass an mot a car only requires it to be between 20/25%. So of these figures excess is pretty well knackered. So if the joint only had 25% of its life left at time of test it would have been pretty shot 2 months before when it was tracked.

Definatly doesnt cut the spark. Would missfire if you cut the spark. Cutting the sprak would/could cause more trouble than you was already in. I would imagine the ecu overrides the throttle position. Cutting the spark would also cause the engine to stall. If you keep your foot planted and let the trc cut in you can keep it cut in for a considerable time period, if the spark was cut for this long the engine would stall compleatly. Not to mention cause a problem when the spark cut back in it would ignite all the unburnt fuel in the cylinders. I used to have a push button start on my old escort with a flick switch for the igntion if i turned the igniton of, therefore cutting the spark, and kept the car rolling in gear it would keep drawing fuel through the carberator and when i re ignited the ignition it flamed out of the exhaust like you wouldnt believe. Either way Toyota/Lexus invested millions into designing the electronics on the car who are we to poo poo them and decide i wont bother using them. I personally have tried all 3 setting this weekend snow on trc on, trc on snow off, and both off. both on definatly aids when pulling away from a stand still.

RE your message. cant message back for some reason. door cards are yours if you want them no problem. Will sort courier from this end i send stuff out to my mother in law in spain every week so have an account with DHL. Send me your address will get them wrapped and priced for you. Paypal for postage cost will be fine will get them to you before christmas with a bit of luck there in my way infact there in my boot going tip next time i passed lucky i checked my messages lol phil

Depends on what you have drove in before i guess. I prefer a rear wheel drive cars you can steer the car with the throttle if it starts to understeer in the snow a little throttle will slide the back end back into line. If you lock up the front end of a front wheel drive car you have nothing steering brakes power all gone due to loss of traction at front wheels. As for turning off the electric aids why buy a car with them if your going to turn them off. I agree its more fun and personaly doesnt bother me i spent years in a 1969 rs2000 escort sliding it round on supermarket car parks at night. I can handle a rear wheel drive car mastering a power slide was an early achievement of mine, very recless thing to do on the roads but really does help with driving in this weather. Be light and smooth on the controls and keep the electric aids on, i would like to see the insurance claim form " i crashed, i turned my traction control off and the snow button !!! well i didnt think i would bother with that""

I would go see the people that did your tracking for you,and also talk to the mot station. If the ball joint failed the mot test then it must have had "excessive" play in it. If it did have "excessive" play in it when mot,ed i would imagine it would have had some play in it when when the tracking was done, 2 months earlier and therefore shouldnt have been tracked. A ball joint wont go from ok to worn out in 2 months. Sure the guys at WIM check for wear and play before they track a car as should anyone. If there was slight play in the joint then it shouldnt have failed the mot test to quote the mot testers manuel " check for excessive wear" yes you will need your tracking doing again, should you have to pay for it, at my garage, no you wouldnt.

Almost definatly warpped discs but in this current weather it could be your abs system actually doing its job. i took at least 10 phone call last week with people saying the brakes vibrate and bang. when they explain its only on back streets and not on the main roads it becomes pretty obvious its their abs. Not calling you dumb but without seeing the car no one can give a definative answer to your problem.

Owned my 200 s for few months now being an s it had cloth seats when i got it. I was lucky enough to find half leather seats on ebay few weeks after buying it. Got them for £50. Half hour on motorway to collect bobs your uncle. So with a bit of wiring in they went, was only seats though and the rear arm rest had a little rip in it. Last week i spotted a set of rear seats (with mint arm rest) and door cards for sale on Ebay, stuck a bid on them as getting the arm rest re trimmed was going to set me back £35. My luck must be in, £10 rear seats with mint arm rest and 4 mint matching door cards, and the cherry ontop the seller lives less than 20 mins away. Went and collected within 10 mins of auction end an hour later i was home and now have full set of half leather with matching door cards for only £60 and full set of spare window switches which the guy left in the door cards.

I take it the body kits were not standard on any model. If the kit was standard british laws states they have to make all parts for 10 years after the car goes out of production, but only for standard fit parts. Dont think it would matter much if they stopped making them they stopped making them dam sure they wont start again just because a few of us want them lol

www.goodgaragescheme.co.uk. Try this web site if your looking for a good indie in your area. Indipendantly run web site for indie garages with feed back from real customers. The customers fill in report sheets and send them to the people that run the web site, not to the garage. Find a garage in your area then read the feedback about them, just like when buying from ebay, you get to see how the seller or garage in this case does bussiness.

cheers for them numbers mate i have got a picture in my hand of those parts. No su[rise to me there the wrong parts. The picture i have is of 2 twist cable nobs and 2 slide switches. The vehicle we have is the newer type dash with 3 twist switches. The uk market switches that i have seen for the newer model are electric and not cable. Any chance you can have another look for me cheers phil

were to start with this one start with the worse i guess 1976 Austin Maxi. Was bought for a charity run we went for a Maxi adventure had to be better than a Mini adventure. Lots of car inbetween rover coupe turbo modded out of its face 0-60 under 6 secs top end 165mph still got this one. another rover coupe i never even sat in (bought it for spares for the turbo). Toyota mr2 1985 model i bought 5 years ago drove it home put it in garage never moved it since. 1972 escort van removed engine stood it for a year sold it still got engine. 1969 mark 1 escort started out as a 1300 ended up 2000cc twin 48 carbs stripped out plastic windows 2 bucket seats roll cage everything. Toyota previa,Honda stepwgn, rover 214 ( bought for numner plate which was given as birthday present to brother in law) 1985 escort cabriolets 2 of them still have one, mitsi evo 4, 1998 mondeo, transit van. 2600 non turbo sky line, E class merc estate with 260,000 on the clock rolled on motorway at 120mph after the nutter in the passenger seat grabbed the wheel as she was "bored" (sideways at a buck 10 is a while load of brown adrenalin). sure theres loads i have missed. Company cars everything from a 85 esprit turbo to 98 golf 1600. Best car driven... close between ferrari 355 and lancia delta intergral. First car was a 1985 mini next came a datsun cherry that i traded in for a mark 4 cortina 2 door 1300 ( wish i kept this one very very rare car only ever seen the one). Funniest car ever was a fiesta van 1800 diesel with xr2 body kit purple and blue tiger stripes and the words Vanny magnet on the back. Inside we used to chalk up our scores if your still 17 and drive round cruising at night you will know what i mean by scores.

ye thought so.but its been fine since it happened no problems since finger crossed it be ok, dont mind fitting after market system just rather keep it standard

current mot price is £57.40 if i remember correctly. This price is set out by VOSA and is the standard price. garages are entitled to offer a discount on this price to allow for local compatition between garages. Anyone can ask for a discount weather they get one is a different matter lol. As for servicing and timing belts i have mentoned many times that personally i think some of you pay way too much for servicing and repairs i just today did a service on a 53 plate 200 was under £100 didnt need plugs as it had them last service i quoted for clutch and timing belt to be change both jobs together was less than £450 including vat. I am suggesting these prices as a guide of what garages in my area are charging and not offering my services to memebers unless they are already customers of mine which there are a few on here.

Had a is200 in today for service and lacking power. The power loss is due to a slipping clutch. Priced the clutch from 3 diffrent supliers 2 said they didnt list a dualmass one said they didnt but their supplier didnt have one and they had never sold one. The car stayed in over night tonight customer is collecting it in the morning. I am fully boked wioth work until middle of next week but would imagine by this time next week i will be doing the clutch. So by this time next week i hopefully would of had a the gearbox out of an is 200 and can then confirm for sure if the is 200 has a dual mass fly wheel or not. i will post again when i know for certain. Just to add the car is a 53 plate and has only done 21k so theres an example of how quick you can burn out a clutch.

Very suprised its a dual mass flywheel, never actually done an is200 clutch so never actually had one in hand. Will check the specs tomorow but acording to LUK a dual mass should have no more than 30mm of free rotation. I was on a dual mass fly wheel course early last year lol. i hadnt even heard of them before that buts theres millions of them out there according to LUK. I have come across lots of them in the last year i know the vauxhall zafira on is in excess of £200. The one ford uses in the tranny van and mondoe falls apart very easily Luk now even do a solid mass on to replace them. I also know that alot of clutch manufactures now do a 4 piece kit, presure plate, friction plate, bearing and flywheel all in one box. If the fly wheel has gone you normally get a less then smooth idle as the mass of the flywheel doesnt rotate evenly simular sort of thing when a road wheel isnt balanced. you just get a funny vibe.

REG an54gks (this is a cherished number) chassis number kun26r-prpsyt frame number mrofz29g01519698 The vehicle is a Toyota vigo/hilux The vehicle came from Thialand. the build date is august 05 The part i need it the hot/cold heater switch. The dash is the same dash as the current hilux. With the 3 heater control dials. The switches have cables on the back of them like the old style controls. I have pictures on my phone but never bothered to work out how to post them on here. If your system at work excepts the frame and chassis number, if you send me an email address work or personal i will email them straight from my phone to you. I have had a look on my local dealers system at both the switches used on the English Hilux, from memory( was a while ago i looked) the early system uses cable but they are not the same as the ones on the vehicle my customer has, the later system has an electronic switch. I have spoken to a vehicle importer who says the vehicles from thialand didnt have heaters they just had cold and aircon. All my local dealers parts systems wont except the frame number for the vehicle i am having problems with. Cheers fella, could turn out to be a big problem for me this one as they are a very good customer of mine and have 4 of these imported things and you did say if i posted the details you would have a look for me lol

You have to pop the centre console out. Two screws under the cloth insert in the bottom of the armrest glove box. one screw each side of the console at the front going in from each footwell. Then pull out the gear lever gater with the trim around it theres 2 more screws in the front of the console there. Pull the console out and flip it over then the drinks holder unclips from underneath. Had mine out recently was adding an armrest fitted to the centre console.

Clutch mileage change depends soley on driving style. A to test a clutch drive normally then in third put your foot down hard if the revs go up and the car doesnt speed up chances are your clutch is gone, this is the signs of slipping. As for the fly wheel unless its a dual mass flywheel (pretty certain its not) why change it. Wouldnt think it has a dual mass flywheel as the engine doesnt have tons of torgue. Most modren diesels have them but, like i said i be suprised if the is has one. Personally i know my is is on its original clutch and has 145,000 ish on the clock. Then again my neighbour has a fiesta with 8,ooo on it and i personally have put 3 clutches in it and the dealers did one when it was new. Like i mentioned depends on driving style if you ride the clutch it wont last as long. If you do lots of motorway mileage you wont press your clutch for mile after mile so no wear on the clutch for lots of miles.

Was flicking through the cd changer tonight and it just stopped changing cds. Eventually the screen read error 3. I put the stereo onto radio and just carried onthe journey. After a while the radio beeped twice when i looked down the screen read alarm, then just started working normally cds and everything. I think i have seen something about error code 3 before on here so i presume its something thats cropped up a few times. New cd player are so cheap, i actually have a touch screen with 7.5 inch fold out screen but would prefer to leave the standard one in. So my question is any one know what error code 3 is about and what was it on about when it came up alarm

I am in the fortunate position where i can run more than one car. The IS is my every day runner, use it for work get in and out with dirty boots and overalls on and everything. Cleans up very nicely everytime my apprentice does a great job so it gets used as my evening car as well. I run up and down the country in my IS every weekend on caving canoeing and scuba diving trips. Mine has clocked 145,000 miles has little to no recorded service history and still drives at tight as the day it was made. I have other cars when i feel the need for speed. AS for power bmw 6 cylinder 2 litre engine only puts out 150 bhp i know i used to own one would take my IS over the bwm anyday.

Its half past midnight but just had a quick look an ebay item number 120499550710 looks exactly the same as the tyres i suggest

Certainly can. they are Federal 215/45R15 V rated. Personaly i wouldnt bother with the larger size on the rear the standard size is ok . They in Decembers discount list from a company called Oak tyres based in Liverpool. They have a branch in Manchester also (which is were my tyres come from) but the order line is Liverpool. I get a discount so you may not get them at same price. They are directional tyres with a square edged tread area. I have been fitting Federal tyres to customers cars for ages i bought a pair for the rear to solve the loose rear problem them bought a pair of yokohamas for the back instead as i thought the feds were ok but they yokos would be better. The yokos are better but, after today the feds are good enough. Depends on your driving style i guess. With traction control off and some heavy feet i can get the wheels spinning with either tyres on, but if your just driving the car, on todays performance the feds are better that i thought they would be. Oak tyres do a range of "budget tyres" they even do a tyre in the Lexus size for as little as £28 but its a make i have never heard of and have never tested either. I have fitted them for customers who have the "cant you do them any cheaper" question. The customers didnt complain but then again they didnt come back syaing how good they were either. I work to the east of Manchester and some of the areas around here a slightly less affluent than others so i do offer the very cheap tyres but only if requested to. I put the same mark up on a tyre regaurdless of size or make so it doesnt matter to me selling a cheap tyre or a branded tyre. I sell the tyres with a tenner mark up, this includes fitting new valve and wheel balance. The bigger companies advertise "tyres from -----". this doesnt include fitting or new valve or balancing they even charge for tyre disposal all on top of the tyre price. Hope this helps and if you struggle to get the tyres i happy to getthem and send them down to you but i sure you can get them in London

Ok test done as stated. 215/45r17 on the front new set fitted saturday morning. 245/40r17 on rear slightly used set done aprox 100 miles. I have driven 400ish miles this weekend on the tyres stated above. Was wet and dull saturday night cold start this morning and damp and dull all day. Drove up to Capenray dive centre up through Lancaster from Manchester. Most miles on motorway with about 5 of twisty A roads after motorway. I drove within the speed limit with traction control turned of. Nothing, not a twitch or even a spin from the junctions. Drove same route back with traction on (as i forgot to turn it of when on return trip) I booted it abit and crept over the motorway limit a smidgen on the way back. Was tired after days diving btu still nothing no slips skids or slides. The tyres i have on are Federals. £38 for the fronts and think the rears were about £46. (plus vat). So i thinks its time i put my " good tyre but wouldnt have them on my car " comment in the bin, i happy to keep them on now. The yokos i bought can stay in the garage for when the federals wear out. So in answer to the topic "best bedget tyre" i dotn know but i happy with the Federals so far. Oh my Lexus is an S model so no limited slip diff??

Remote start is good idea but also a bad one. I have remote start and turbo timer ( engine idles with fans on after shut of to cool it) on my coupe turbo. As mentioned the cars standard imobiliser has to be removed or as suggested taping the fob to the ignition barrel. Problem is the law, leavimg your car un attended whilst running is illegal. Yes the car will still be locked and if the system you get is like mine the car shuts of first time you press the brakes unless the key is in ignition, so it cant be driven very far if taken. Its great fun firing the car up when someones walking past and theres no one in it amazes lots of people. I fired mine up once and the guy passing was a copper it was him that pointed out it could be illegal to do this. then again having your car ready warmed and defrosted on a cold morning is a big draw for having one. Should your car be stolen and the insurance find out your imobilizer has been de activated i dont think they will be happy. So be carefull especially if your imobilizer fob is taped to the inside of the ignition lock.