flyeris

Izzzy, did you manage to find the old thread regarding caliper refurb? I had the same problem on the way home a few days ago. The problem was a sticking brake piston.

Mine front driver's side caliper has also seized on the way home. Probably brakes seem to be a common problem of Lexus IS. I wonder, how do you make these pistons work again? How long do they last? Do you also lube it through the seal or just move it a few times?

Thanks mates! With your help and a bit of reading on the workshop manual managed to swap the licence plate bulbs. However, still wondering, why my boot light does not work. Could anybody tell me, where the switch is located, which detects when the boot is open?

It seems I found the information on how to change the licence plate bulb: http://www.bahamutcars.com/workshop/IS_98-...e/m_be_0056.pdf However, what is the best way to retract the boot trim? It is fixed by these "punch-in" connectors. Won't they break once trying to pull them out?

Hello there, As described in the topic, I have two problems. One is, I need a fix for my boot lighting. I have no idea what is wrong, it simply does not work. I tried to remove the lamp and swap it for a new one, but it simply does not work - what could be wrong? Is there a fuse for that lamp? Also, where is the "sensor" located for detecting when the boot is open? Ideas welcome :) The second thing is that I want to do the famous licence plate lighting LED conversion. Could anybody give me the basic guides from which point to start? Should I remove the inside material to gain access to the lamps or can they be removed from the outside? Thanks in advance guys, Best regards, Jonas

Does fitting a oxygen sensor spacer solve this problem? Has anybody tried putting such after going De-cat instead of changing the oxygen sensor? eBay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=290388574754

leak in the air induction?

I wonder, if the car can run fine without any major problems if it has skipped a tooth. It should definitely affect the drivability somehow (my IMHO). Also, as for fuel mixture being rich, try checking emissions and comparing to the results durint the last MOT - if they are bigger, then probably something is wrong with the fuel injection etc and the sensors might be fine. Else - it is probably worth trying changing the sensors. To save on costs, you could try to look for one second hand sensor and put it in. If it is the sensor's fault, after swapping the fault on one of the banks should not appear any longer.

Is there a major difference in side lighting compared to your previous HID kit? I wonder what should be the most reasonable choice. Ordering another set of HID bulbs is quite expensive

I use a copy of ScanMaster-ELM which I was able to find on the internet. Tried a few other programs, but can't recall their names.

Let us know, if it works with WIndows CE. Probably the question is, whether the software works on Windows CE or not.

Hello there, I promised to post in the forum after testing the widely available USB interfaces for car diagnostics. I know somebody was interested, if they are working with IS, and now I can conirm that these definitely work. Personally, I have got this one and it is fully working - there different software available and it is possible to pick one, which is most friendly to your likings. I definitely it is worth having, as it costs like $30 and any visit to the garage for the same code reading costs at least the same ammount of bucks :) http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.28528 P.S. I think I have read somewhere that it may not work with newer Windows versions (XP preferred) - I will test it later with my laptop with Windows 7 in it, whether it works or not.

Hi there, Just short question - anybody experiences oil burning with IS? If so, how much do you have to add ex. per 1000 km? I believe I am losing bits of oil through the time, also, after leaving the car for a few days and then starting it, it starts with blue? smoke and weird smell. I assume it could be oil leaking into cylinders, but it also could be me being paranoid :D It is forgivable as before Lexus for a few years I have driven Fiat Coupe as a summer car, which used to fall apart frequently ;) Thanks for any thoughts :)

overrevving? sluggish? > clutch gone? From standstill with handbrake firmly on, try to drive away in 4th or 5th gear like you wanted to sprint away in 1st. If the car stalls (which it should), then your clutch ought to be fine. If your car keeps running, you have found the problem: clutch worn and needs replacement. That should be painful to the car, shouldn't it? I have heard that it is possible to test the clutch for slipping when driving slowly (like 20km/h), shifinting into high gear and pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. Is it logic enough to test the clutch this way? Just something, what I heard :)

I have no idea, how cat converter could relate to his problems? There are plenty of people driving catless systems perfectly fine without any symptoms. Mine is also "worn out" and it doesn't affect the driving in any way. Of course, emissions are probably worse right now than they should be.

P.S. How did your auto transmission pack up? Was it like getting progressively worse and worse or it happened out of sudden? I am getting some shock while changing gears also (I didn't realize it may indicate anything wrong - isn't the shock because of engaging the rear axle?)

I believe any should be fine as long as hole pattern matches and they are R16 or bigger.

I think I got OEM Toyota transmission oil this time, as at the time being I didn't have any other options matching T-IV requirements.

My car is auto and it has ~250k kms on the odometer. So far no problems and no signs of it starting to pack up, still going strong :) It was liek -20oC here today and it was perfectly fine also after some warming up. I have changed the oil few thousands kms ago. As per some advice from the garage, I didn't change the filter (it does filter only big particles so it doesn't get contaminated much).

well.. I have some opposite reflections regarding the strength of the car... unluckily, a few days ago my car was also hit while left standing by some guy reversing. I realize that the impact shouldn't have been big, but the doors lost their primary shape still don't know, if the garage will be able to restore the same door or if I will have to look for the new ones. on the other side, happily only the doors were damaged during the accident, so the repair works will definitely be easier.

Bumping older thread - has anybody tried this mechanical fix on their ISes - possibily after de-cat procedure? :)

I got the same ECU error on my IS. I am thinking of getting an oxygen sensor spacer for the post-cat oxygen sensor into cheating the car that everything is Ok. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TESTPIPE-FI...=item20add6420c ..or any other... lots to choose from

...and probably the cheapest place to look for a key casing (it is three buttons, but should suit two button transpoder fine - should be fine for a spare key) http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16361

Aha.. I think I found what I missed. Will have to try that once again: SET - UP • Remove the key from the ignition • Close and lock all doors • Manually unlock and open the driver’s door

I also failed to program remote functions on my key, although didn't have any problems with the immobiliser. I simply never reach the self-locking/unlocking state. Seems that I am doing everything as per instructions. Strange.. Any suggestions?..