The-Acre

Glad you got it sorted. I only ran mine for about a mile, and although it seems to be running fine there's a sound from underneath that wasn't there before. When it's cold and I rev the engine I hear a kind of tinny sound. So if anyone can shed some light on that it would be appreciated. Check the heat shields around the cats and Y pipe the overheating may have caused the fastenings to break also have a look at the rear box shields the metal rusts and they fall off the bolts and end up sitting on top of the exhaust boxes. Ta, I guess I need to get it up in the air. it's certainly not the rear shields, they were done some time ago and the sound is coming from the front.

Glad you got it sorted. I only ran mine for about a mile, and although it seems to be running fine there's a sound from underneath that wasn't there before. When it's cold and I rev the engine I hear a kind of tinny sound. So if anyone can shed some light on that it would be appreciated.

Well you've just described my recent grief but mine was a coil. Have you checked the HT leads very carefully. Did you buy new coils or used ones and have you tested them again? Just because they were changed recently doesn't mean they still work. Welcome to LOC by the way.

Beautiful, straight out of the showroom!

Just an update for those interested. The new ignition coil came today (only took a week!) but at £26 inc delivery I'm not complaining. It was of course the coil pack on the passengers side but I did manage to stay calm, even though it took 40 mins to get the rear bolt in (now I know why God made Japanese people so small) Anyway, everything back together and she fired up on the button! There does however seem to be a very, very slight change in the exhaust note so I'm assuming that when it got really hot maybe a joint has opened slightly. Great to get it back on the road at such a small cost, and still got all my knuckles1 Thanks to ROYT and Steve for your advice etc, it's all much appreciated, especially as I thought it might be the end of the road. Phil

Glad that's sorted! Because mine got so wet everything electrical went nuts. Apart from the alarm going off, the central locking went funny, the courtesy lights in the footwells stayed on, I really thought it had caused some serious damage. Fortunately when it dried out everything went back to normal (apart from the fact I haven't been able to use it now for over a week as I'm still waiting for parts)

I don't suppose the XJ6 still worked with the petrol tanks full of water??? If so, don't let the government know!

It can be so hard to find the cause of water entering as there are so many ways it can come in. Does it happen when driving or just standing? I know the two can't be compared but my other car (Vauxhall Vectra) has a common fault where the scuttle tray gets blocked with leaves and other muck. Instead of the water draining to the gound it builds up and comes in to the cabin past the pollen filter. When it happened to mine I was sure it was door seals or something like that. The problem is that you can't see the scuttle tray without lifting the plastic up under the bonnet. Mine had 3 years worth of gundge in it. I guess it could be that kind of blockage. Are you absolutely certain it's not the sunroof? Thank you for your reply. It is certainly not coming in from the roof. I have checked under the bonnet & does not seem to be blocked up.The odd leaf or two but nothing major. Yes it happens when the car is stationary Just another thought. Has it suddenly started or has it been gradual? If it's been a sudden leak it could well point to a blockage. I say that because my LS was fine one day and soaked the next, and the blockage was only small, and when I say soaked I mean dripping from the roof like rain drops. It seems a fairly common complaint on the RX (looking at the American sites) having wet carpets, but none seem to point to rainwater, mostly the AC system. I don't know what else to suggest, apart from some detective work with a hose pipe. Hopefully someone else will have some ideas. I guess you've checked the obvious like drainage holes in the doors? In fact I think I'm right in saying the drainage from the sunroof on the LS can sometimes disconnect near the boot causing leaks. Many years ago I bought a Chevrolet, a big beast! Every time I drove it I could hear a slight knocking from the rear, it drove me nuts. After some detective work I found that a whole wing at the rear had filled up with water and there was a small piece of plastic floating on top tapping against the body evry time the car moved. There's some useless information for you!

It can be so hard to find the cause of water entering as there are so many ways it can come in. Does it happen when driving or just standing? I know the two can't be compared but my other car (Vauxhall Vectra) has a common fault where the scuttle tray gets blocked with leaves and other muck. Instead of the water draining to the gound it builds up and comes in to the cabin past the pollen filter. When it happened to mine I was sure it was door seals or something like that. The problem is that you can't see the scuttle tray without lifting the plastic up under the bonnet. Mine had 3 years worth of gundge in it. I guess it could be that kind of blockage. Are you absolutely certain it's not the sunroof?

Ditto. My drainage holes under the sun roof were so blocked that I had to use a wet and dry vac to get all of the water out of the carpet and roof lining. So much water came in it set the alarm off at 4am! I used a thin nylon rod with a small ball at the end to clear it (gently) I think they're used by electricians for routing cables but not sure, I borrowed it from a friend.

I think this is an issue that is over looked on all models. When I changed my rear pads last year I found one of the caliper pins semi siezed. The service interval for an old LS like mine is 6,000 and I think it's good practice to check and lubricate things like caliper pins at the same time. It doesn't add much time but it can save much grief in the long term. I wonder how many times pads are changed by companies like Kwik Fit etc and caiper operation is ignored, most times I suspect.

I'd want a bit more than a re gas, I would want the whole system checked for leaks which most will do but sadly not all. My last re gas cost £60 and the guy tested it with the dye to make sure it was sound. He also mentioned that if the gas has broken down (or leaked) the system has to work much harder.

Thanks for that, and sorry yes, I should have said the battery!

Just another quick question. It seems the passenger side coil pack is the possible culprit so it looks like I have to remove the battery and maybe battery tray to get to it. Is it simply a case of disconnecting and reconnecting or is there a precedure like the later ones? I seem to remember when I did the dash problem I had to leave it for 3 mins after re connecting.

Thanks also to you Steve. I'll let you know if this is the problem.

Thanks for the info. I'll start on this in the next couple of days and see what happens. If only the coils and plugs etc were as easy to get to as most cars!!

Wild guess at loss power as described ---- 1 coil failure Would that cause high temperatures? Is there an easy test for coil failure?

Greetings all, A bit of urgent help needed. We were out in the old LS today and as usual it was running as smooth as silk. I pulled onto a dual carriageway and put my foot down (not very hard) and suddenly the car started to feel like it was cutting out. I pulled over and it was still idling but it was like it was running on 2 rather than 8. There was just enough power to turn around but with the acceleration of a push bike. When I managed to get back, and it was only half a mile, I stopped the engine and popped the bonnet. Everything towards the rear of the engine seemed hot, in fact there was a small amount of smoke which I think was just old oil/grease that had got hotter than usual. The exhausts were making the usual noises as they cooled down but much, much more than usual. The water temp seemed OK but something towards the back of the engine down by the exhaust seemed very, very hot. Any ideas? I've had over 4 years of trouble free motoring so if it's terminal (by that I mean too expensive to repair) I can't complain. It's a 93 with 129K and there were no warning lights showing. Cheers Phil Just a PS on this. I turned it over this morning from cold and it fired up but was rough and still with no power. It sounds like an old American V8 from the 70's, just chugging over.

Hi All I have painted a few wheels over the years to an adequate standard The cans of " silver wheel spray " in your local motor factors are too dark and grey you have to find a really bright silver or try a local auto paint specialist who will knock up some cans to your spec - I did this a few years ago and told the guy to make sure the silver was "Bright and speckly " and I duly sprayed a set of DHP wheels and they stood out a mile - nearly needed glasses they were so dazzling Anyhow after a bit of research I tracked down a motor factors near me in Beckenham who do tins of german paint in silver [ will dig a can out for its name ] the paint match to the original lexus silver is pretty good and is nice and bright about £6 a can, although I would recommend you do the whole wheel rather than just blow it in. He also said he sells boxes of these to the refurb guys who come round your house with the heat lamps and they do all manufacturers wheels. Best thing to do is start with your spare wheel and then do one at a time. Anyhow I will find the name and post it on here. Just a quick one on the subject of paint - have used Auto Paint St Helens www.auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint £6.99 + vat for 400ml mixed aerosol give them your paint code or for bumpers lower cladding code and they mix it up to manufactures spec, very nice guys to deal with. Maurice I agree with the need for a "bright" silver, the CarPlan I used was nice and bright with a decent sparkle but it was enhanced by a good quality lacquer.

The paint is CarPlan and the colour on the lid is Silver-25 Phil

Didn't get to work today to get the number, but I'll do it Tuesday. The acre is a pathetic name really, it's all I could think of at the time! The site where I work is called The Acre....The colour is very close to the body which I think looks good. In fact I did the bit below the front bumper with it and it looks fine. Phil

I did mine using Carplan cans which looked fine (you may remember I did the grille at the same time) I'll check the number tomorrow if you like. The guy at work who refurbs wheels always does them with the tyres on. Don't know if that's right but he's been doing it for years.

Eh?

And driving around with lacquer peeling and chipping off every wheel because the "prestige marque" that is Lexus used the worst wheel lacquer they could get their hands on looks a lot better does it? I'm sure your halfords spraycan job will be of a much higher standard. I can't wait to see the results and how it will look after a few harsh winters... A tad harsh I feel. I did my wheels with spray cans and like anything else its all down to how much prep you put into it.