SteveAudioX

gonna take the train up to this one.. shold be good as I know Mr Rayner and Mr Westwood.

had another drive, she really does have some polk during gear change, I even managed to wheel spin it in 2nd gear change.... dunno how so tryed it again and it happeed again...

blimey.... had loads of greef.... firstly I think I either lost the extension bolt for the sandwich plate, which after one phonecall to Prolex I managed to get a replacemnt on the same day... woooahhh. excellent service. I decided to custom the install so it looks darn good. show photos of modified brackets shortly, also decided to wrap the braded lines etc, and clamp down, also utilised all existing holes available ont he front x member etc to avoid any extra holes being drilled into the car, after all this, the kit seems to work pretty well, looks excellent and well installed if i can say so myself. no oil leaks, no rattles, no squeeks, and just .. wonderfull after a tough days work on my mates ramp who Fargo knows of too.. great guys in burnt Oak I must say. just waiting to save up a little extra now for 2 next mods that I must have from Mr Prolex himself. 1 being the manifold system and the other... well thats a secret he does'nt even know about.

extreemly helpfull as always Matt.... Ended up un bolting the starter motor as opposed to disconnecting from the electrical connections, loads of long reach rachets to unbot every single bolt of the gearbox to get it out, no need to go from top of the engine. Took me ages to figure out how to release the 4 bolts which are vclose together holding in the gear stick

Helix clutch fitted, I mught of taken the gearbox propsharft off incorrectly as I pulled out from the gearbox loosing oilbut topped up with the right stuff quite easily. Must say the kit fitted perfectly although I also changed the flywheel at the same time. Must add that the release bearing clip would not fit and I had to use the oem relaese bearing clip which fitted perfectly. The clutch feels great but unfortunly I will have to get more used to it over this weekend, only drove for 2 miles just now back from the garage. Clutch pedel feels lighter then the oem one for sure, bighting points nice, feels a little jerky at the moment as I am not used to it, realise I have to give a little more gas then usual when leaving the lights or it stutters, dunn if thats related to me not operating the pedal correctly and used to the old bighting point etc, or it's that lightweight flywheel wanting to just take off.... Let me get a little more used to it and I'll report back. DUNCAN, It's definate a worthy purchase, I am sure already the lightweight fly makes a big difference, engine breaking is still like oem by the way Pete (Scorpion) so I ever noticed any dramatic change there. It was'nt an easy process doing a clutch change for the first tim, I must say, but it went pretty well with no specialist tools but the clutch alignment tool, which I also learnt how to use today.

Prolex lightweight flywheel finally fitted. Report so far... Can't drive the car, need to get use to it, it's now got such a positive "pull of jerky" when changing through gears, feels much more pokie I must say. Oh, and it sure is a lot lighter, could'nt belive how heavy the oem one was when removed!... Also fitted the Helix paddle clutch, report to follow later.

Read the test procedure about static test.

I was o.k

Will it need more oil with an oil cooler fitted?

Once the gearbox has een removed, how easy is the clutch and flywheel change

Thanks Colin, which type and brand would you recommend for my application?

I ordered mine from Mr Chris Shipley, took ages to come, Special order only I think. Couldn't get the front and back part so I got 4 sets of side parts to fit instead.

I was just talking to Dave E earlier about a Scotland cruise and meet...

Rear parcel shelve if available and that plastic panel the boot closes onto, think it protects whilst loading the boot up if available.

I'm running HID's on my IS200, never been flashed from other drivers, I think yours may need adjustments.

Did you say 0 ? i've seen 15-30 10-40

Very Berry Nice ... I've got mine lowered about 45mm Here.

Probaly been covered before... Due for yet another oil change. Thinking of going better then the Lexus oil..... Stick with LEXUS oem oil? or Semi Synthetic (what rating and brand) or Full Synthetic like mobile 1

Does the backing plate actully do anything on the oem system Mat? Is it a stone guard or something

you lucky so and so ...

It's starting to get dark

Thanks for clearing that up Matt... I thought 1.5-2mm was cutting it rather fine, in case a bit of dust or a little stone got caught in-between ...

You mean a HEX key to undo your hood strut... I think we used a 10mm bolt into one of the existing threaded holes in Pete's car on the passenger side for GND point, and the existing bolt at the hood strut where I guess your going to be using. Make sure it's a good enough ground connection after, you can do a continunity check with a multi meter from your new GDN connection point to the car GDN battery termanal, you are looking for a VERY low resistance... I mean very low... Confused yet I AM

Emm.... Let Mr Fargo fill you in ... with Pictures .. But the kit's been fitted , excellent, straight forward.... Must add that this kit WILL fit using OEM 17" and OEM 18" Alloys ! Yes you read right ! I tryed my OEM 18"s and they cleared leaving 2mm gap between back face of spokes and front face of caliper. ( the fixing bracket can also be shimmed quite easily to leave at least 5mm clearance if required ) The OEM 17" left plenty of room for clearance between the back face of the spokes to the front face of the caliper easily, the rolling internal radius of the wheel also leaves enough clearance for the brake line etc...

Did you pay much attention at school Mr Aido Your first connection picture is in-correct All fixings and connectors are used. The relay assembly does not plug in the way you have shown it. It takes the input from the oem plug you actully remove from your oem lightbulb, perhaps using one of the leads 4 or 5 to adapt it. The other end of the relay assembly is then used to goto the ballast, again you use either part 4 or 5 to connect it. ( cant see the connectors that clear in your diagram ). Your latest connection onto the battery terminal, i would not advise you make the connection at this point but at the other bolt available, reason being it leaves your battery removal nut totally accessable when you need to disconnect the battery in future. Remember that water would normally run downward, so place all components in such a way that water will not run down into it. If all fails, you better phone for help.