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Parrot of Doom

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Everything posted by Parrot of Doom

  1. Timpsons will cut you a new key, I had one done a few months back. It's just a Toyota key, the one Timpsons sell has a slightly longer blade but is otherwise identical. I say identical, it also has the same crap design as the typical Lexus key, which means that it too will eventually break.
  2. Go to Charlesworth Motors near Glossop. Much cheaper than the dealer. No marble floors or espresso maker, but you at least won't need to remortgage.
  3. Warranties are designed primarily to make a profit for those who offer them. These are very reliable cars, you don't need a warranty. And even if something big does break, you can fix it with the money you didn't spend on a warranty.
  4. I think you wasted your money going to a main dealer. I paid a fraction of those costs having mine serviced at the same mileage at a Toyota/Lexus specialist near Glossop. I didn't need new shocks but the quote you received is gobsmacking. There's nothing special about these cars that makes that price realistic, they're just ordinary shocks and springs. I wouldn't be surprised if they replaced everything in that stack, even if it didn't need replacing. I think I paid around £6-700 for the service including belt and tensioner, plus a brand new front caliper.
  5. A one mile commute. One mile. I know people use cars for purposes other than commuting, but really, driving a mile to work? I'd walk.
  6. It's an eleven-year-old car, suspension components are going to be worn. Whether they're worn beyond a point they could be considered roadworthy is another question, but if the car passes an MOT then I'd be surprised if the dealer will replace those bushings. I've had a couple of cars laser aligned at a place in Oldham, it's well worth doing if you intend to keep the car for any length of time, although bear in mind that they can't fix the alignment of components that are excessively worn - the only cure for those is to replace them.
  7. Haven't the foggiest. I've just done 60 miles on the bike so I'm not going out in the cold to check again today :)
  8. I have a Transcend DP520, no need for video playback because you just connect over wifi to your phone and play back on that.
  9. The remote I have is this PZ462-E8370-01 Remote Control 2003 05-06-2005 100013 E13 10R-02 1956
  10. The insurance company may write it off but that's a bureaucratic measure only. There's nothing to keep anyone from buying it from the insurance company, fixing the faults, and putting it back on the road.
  11. I have an Android phone (Xperia Z2 on Android 5.1.1) and I too hear no "brrrp brrrp" when making calls.
  12. The "hybrid computer module" will be nothing more than a box of electronics. I'd imagine any ECU repair outfit would be able to sort that for a fraction of £1,000.
  13. I'd check that the air intake wherever the temperature sensor is isn't blocked with fluff.
  14. I hear a similar sound sometimes on mine but it hasn't caused me any concern and it only happens occasionally at between 5-10mph, usually when accelerating from standstill.
  15. I wish I could say the same of Lexus Manchester, who sold me a car with a hole in the exhaust (that they initially refused to replace) and wheels so badly corroded that I'm going to have to have them refurbished to stop the tyres deflating.
  16. Are the mirror position, boot release and petrol flap release buttons supposed to be illuminated? Mine aren't.
  17. You should leave them a review: https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.satnavdvd.co.uk
  18. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2007_LEXUS_RX400H_MHU38R-AWXGKW_4505.html That's the steering rack. But I'd be looking at generic Toyota bushings, particularly for the Harrier. A bit of Googling suggests that the same steering rack is used in MHU38W-AWXGK which is the Toyota Harrier hybrid.
  19. Most of the time while braking, the car will charge the traction battery from the wheels. So the discs and pads sit there doing nothing. Occasionally you'll notice it switch from regenerative to traditional braking, the car will seem to lose a bit of braking ability, it's a bit odd at first but you get used to it.
  20. It's pretty easy to remove the rear seats, just unclip the carpets in the back and work your way forward. I'd just remove parts until the noise stopped, that way you'll find out what's causing it.
  21. I'd be more inclined to clean the throttle body, and to check all the obvious rubber pipes for any cracks/splits.
  22. Get the battery checked (the little one that powers the basics, not the big traction battery that powers the wheels). If it's old and failing then you'll know about it when you least expect it. Also have the brakes checked, they're liable to seize what with being used so rarely. The wheels are prone to corrosion. Other than that, they're generally a very reliable car.
  23. I wouldn't spend any money replacing the battery. It seems extremely unlikely to me that the whole thing will just "fail". It's far more likely that a single component within that battery has failed, as in the video above. And as other posters have pointed out, it would be a very stupid piece of design if the car could not function without the traction battery.
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