abs66

I wonder how much would be needed to start up our own insurance company only insuring lexs?

Hi Mudguts, I think you are right to eliminate things one by one. "when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth" Good old Sherlock. I reckon I would start with the battery off as it just makes sense as you can look at other stuff while its off and if that works then its likely at some point something somewhere in all those sensors has told the ECU there is a problem. If the problem reoccurs after initially working, then either the ECU is faulty or something somewhere is telling it again that there is a problem. I'm really sorry if I'm coming across as a knobhead but I'm really am trying to help I'm just naff at typing it out lol. Adev has a really good point about leaving the battery off for as long as you can as electronics can have a memory effect quite some time after power has been removed. One of the things I ALWAYS do when weird stuff is going on in a car or computer is check then double check and clean as many connectors as I can as this is a weak point in any loom you will be surprised just how many times that works all for the cost of a little effort and a tin of contact cleaner. The reason I brought up the experience of those people in the USA is that they described the exact same problem you have and neither of them had any codes suggesting a problem except o2 sensors which after replacing had bugger all effect on the actual problem. They both had a problem with the cooling system one a dirty connector (see what I mean) which wasnt even faulty and the other had expansion tank pressure cap with a perished seal! If the smart arse electronics sense these probs it is feasible that it may dial down the revs almost giving a feeling of lack of fuel after 4000 rpm. No i dont understand why no codes show but that doesnt mean it isnt doing it. Programmers can only program into a system what they can realistically expect could go wrong, so it is possible they missed this on these models and hence no code but the ECU does know somethings wrong but just doesnt know what it is. I hope Im making sense. I think you are going to have to think outside the box on this one. Just one more thing, are you absolutely sure your replacement MAF was OK? Baz has a point about the MAF. Anyway good luck. PS If you remove the air filter to test dont forget to put it back in unlike someone I know.....Ahem

Ok just had a thought whilst I was looking through some old computer course work I did many moons ago and came across the phrase GIGO. Garbage In Garbage Out. I then remembered reading on a forum somewhere the USA ones I think that someone had experienced lumpy running from a faulty temp sensor being dirty. Now since this issue is bugging me and I really want to know what the problem is, I have been trawling the USA sites and at least two people have described the same 4000rpm issue and have had complete and or partial success with cleaning a temp sensor and the other replacing a faulty water pressure cap! Can it really be that silly? Neither of them had codes suggesting probs with cooling system but if you think about it, it could make sense. The ECU might back off to avoid damage which would explain why some of us instinctively feel that there is fuel starvation going on. A cheap fix and probably easy to check. Another thread some where suggested alt belt wearing away at wires and causing a short but no closure or explanation on cure. You are not alone! It is fixable! Dont give up! And please will someone take over trawling the American sites, my eyes are going squiffy!! PS Please keep us informed, I love a success story.

Hi Steve, she looks great they have done a great job there. Bet you are glad you got her back, I know I would be lost without mine. As a matter of interest, did you get that dvd I sent?

Er....do we know if the battery has been disconnected for 30 mins yet? Does anyone know if the boot loom prob has had this effect before? I heard it can produce some odd effects! It does feel like its not getting fuel or thinks it isn't at more than 4000 revs. Was the other MAF you tried deffo OK on another car or was it a straight 2nd hand swap with no proof that it was OK? If someone had a couple of coils you could try that would help eliminate that possibility. Also I know I might be well off the mark but I would try removing the air filter for a quick test but obviously don't leave it out. (Unless you have just bought a new one) Wishing you luck so as she doesn't end up in the scrap yard. And if you do end the scrap yard route flog some of the new bits you have put on no doubt someone on here will be happy to take em of your hands for a price, I know I'm always on the look out for a radio with working display (not holding breath!) Don't give up hope yet though I'm sure someone will have a brainwave, these guys on here are brilliant at hunting down a problem, fantastic club. Fingers crossed

I was just wondering as I got the feeling it may be ECU related and a battery removal reset wouldn't do any harm. I don't know whether the guys that do superchip replacements or remapping might be able to check the ecu for you, chances are they have come across working ones and therefore might be able to tell you if yours is duff. It almost seems like fuel starvation too I wonder can you smell petrol at all? I'm probably wrong but I've never come across faulty leads/plugs/coils/dizzy caps that only seemed to be faulty at one particular rev range, but I may have just been lucky over the years

Hi Mudguts, I'm curious as Beavis asked, does it stop dead at 4000 rpm remaining smooth or does it hunt up and down just around 4000 rpm? Did you say you had tried removing the battery for 30 mins yet? Sorry if you have answered this already somewhere I just havent seen it! Need my eyes testing methinks!

LOL I really want to believe that explanation :)

I 100% agree with you Parrot, maybe we could get rid of those cringe worthy tv adverts too. The problem is, you have used a logical common sense approach to the problem which does does not yield the same amount of cash for the government and big business so it's unlikely we will ever get a sensible and fair solution such as the one you propose.

Thats a disgusting price hike. We are so ripped off in this country.

Hi Steve, it's in the post, hope it may of some use to you.

Just as a word of caution before you use the "Castrol compatible", castrols own website says their atf's are NOT suitable and to refer to manufacturer. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829 Why not see if they will do it cheaper if you supply your own oil, might be worth a try. Sorry I'm not being much help here almost feel like saying "It's in the sand!"

Dude, The drive is the reason the destination is the excuse, the Lakes are only 350 miles away, thats 700 miles of joy fella.

Errr whats a tunnel run

I love the Lake District, soooooo beautiful. Oh well thats two of us, I don't know here fatbloke lives.....

lmao

steve if you PM me your address I will pop a useful cd in the post to you, hope it helps.

Did you try DJ Autos in plymouth I think they are called. If they use a castrol equiv, double check it is complient with the jws 3309 as stated in previous posts. Opie Oils down in Redruth can give you advice on which ATF's are compliant to that standard. I dont think they are the cheapest around but if I remember right they only stock quality oils and are very helpful on the phone. Good luck

I'm in the North West and I'm up for a meet. I will go and have a look at the meetings section although I didn't see anything about the north west last time I looked. Where are you thatfatbloke (seems wrong insulting you every time we quote your name lol)

lol@thatfatbloke I know what ya mean 50p for a side light bulb ! the expense just keeps mounting lmao :)

Looking to do the same, did you have any luck with this? I've heard that you loose the sub and have to change the speakers and wiring, its all very confusing to a ICE novice like me.

Its wheeler dealers with Mike Brewer and Ed China. Love that program been watching it for years :)

Thats great news fella. Nice one. Its always a bit daunting when you know you are effectively using an abrasive on bodywork no matter how fine it is, have often said "Phew" after tackling a badly scratched body panel that came out alright in the end. Reds that have gone pink are very satisfying just have to be careful on the edges and curves.

lmao@ floggit Thats a serious strip out, whats going on? I'm so nosey when it looks like a big job broke out lol.

Doesn't the T-IV replace the T-II, I'm sure I've read that somewhere. I see your point Parrot about it sounding like an old wives tale and it maybe that's true, but the crap in a tank isn't necessarily an old wives tale just ask some of the beemer owners that have had crap in the bottom of their tanks due to corrosion, that kind of debris might be the cause of the bottom of tank scare talk. True, the filter generally will pick up the debris in fact that's what its there for, which begs the question why is it there if contaminants don't come out of the tank? I wish we had the chance to chat to a guy from Aisin Warner who could clear the whole thing up for us, does anyone on the forum have links with them by any chance? (See if you can get us a discount on the fluids lol)