ROYT

Same here, can't see me changing either, though eight year parts supply is poor for a quality car. The way things are going KIA will be offering a warranty that long soon Mercedes will have the edge if they a promote a thirty year parts supply

Google 47782-50020 and the back plates are still available in the USA and elsewhere. The USA site I tried would not send outside the US. One is listed in Japan and one in UAE at reasonable cost, the problem may be the shipping cost. I repaired mine but may chance sending for the Japan one. Note, to fix it, you have to cut a big slot in it to get it off or strip the hub. [ I cut the slot!]

Well it wont help and I think tyre wear will be affected also,,,,,,,,,

Although none of this may be relevent to your 430, as you are struggling, here is some info from an Ls 400 #1 ht. control relay appears to be for the front and #2 ht.control relay for the rear. On my picture #2 looks like it's on the right hand side of the boot. the #2 ht control valve and relief valve are together next to rear damper.[looks like drivers side rear on the pic.assuming RHD pic.] Rear ht. control sensors are at the bottom of each damper. check for air leakage with soapy water at pipe joints. In problem charts uneven ht. indicates 'ht. control valves/ exhaust valve circuit' As you might expect there is about 30 pages of diagrams etc.

Also check the hub is perfectly clean before the disc is fitted. Any debris left on here will cause the disc to run 'out of true' accelerating any tendancy to warpage

Any air leaks preventing the rear to pump up?

As posted ,cleaning the throttle body is often the cure. Get some one to turn the steering from lock to lock whilst you look underneath for the noise or excess movement somewhere, .eg. steering rack loose, suspension bushes etc.

This is a potential death trap, if someone with no mechanical knowledge had bought it they would assume all is OK with a new MOT, and unknowingly risk killing someone. Garage needs banning from doing MOT's and prosecuting.

Pm me your email address and vin and I will email diagram...

Re your post on the welding,do you think if went round, they would teach me how to weld rust?

I do my own servicing and repairs up to and including cambelt level and like steve2006 think unless the car is only a couple of years old and has a high value,dealer stamps don't carry much. weight. Recent posts regarding rubbish welding and main dealer overcharging for guess work repairs and failing to do the work correctly, kill their value for me. However,non practical drivers may well get some reassurance from stamps in the service book.

If it's convenient you could use a domestic timer to switch the charger on for an hour or whatever every day

Gives decent garages a bad name, all tarred with the same brush etc..... Makes you wonder how many people are being ripped off every day by these crooks. If you have any doubt, go to an MOT station that doesn't do repairs, no point in them telling you a pack of lies.

Rear brakes don't work as hard as fronts, if money tight skip OEM just go for names you recognize Ferodo, Mintex etc and what other members recommend. Wear indicators from Lexus are a rip off, I just joined the break in the wires and check them visually myself

How did you pay, card or Paypal?

You could jack up the rear and check the handbrake locks both wheels,and releases, in case it's a cable problem

Also check brake fluid level for warning light

Also look for something stuck on, like the boot light.......

This is a slow job! Allow yourself a day, lots of dismantling to get to it!

You can get the kit from Lexus if you prefer OEM...

May sound daft but just try a different known good battery, [on the car not the key]

Happened to me on my LS, tried for new one, no longer available. Have them in the USA for twenty dollars plus post, but this company won't post outside the US. I got mine off without removing the hub by cutting it as suggested, one bolt sheared behind the hub. [so I couldn't drill it out.] Luckily the centre that fits over the hub was repairable. I welded new metal up to it, [not very elegant, but it's only a shield]. To refit, I cut a wide slot in the centre and slid it over the hub, right to left. When fitted it just touched the disc, pushed it back, been fine ever since. Not as bad a job as it sounds, but leave it till summer!

Did you fit competion disc pads or non standard hard pads?

As well as my Lexus I have a 1990 Merc 230e, [series 124 the best! ]....... there is no rust under the car......a squirt of Waxoyl every year, all over the underneath with a Schutz gun keeps it good. [ not on the exhaust! ] I keep hoping it will be worth a fortune one day..... Yes I do the LS as well.......!

Or the inhibitor switch near gear lever has moved?