ROYT

I do the same as 'cruisermark'.......

I just broke up a series one to rob for the parts that will fit mine. When removing the camshaft sensors I found the wires on both had been trapped and one was cut through the insulation Strangely the car ran fine with no misfire or check engine lights,if you run out of checks, this might be worth a look

Did you try Saga or LV?

There is a factory fitted alarm and immobiliser, if Direct Line aren't happy with it, try elsewhere

I'd better get better glasses, thought it was dark blue like mine!

Glad to see some body with a '94 same colour as mine!

I think my age is showing here, but I can't get my head around the prices quoted for repairs to so called quality cars like the above post. A virtually full lexus service history yet a major breakdown at 87,000 miles. These big engines should do double that and not need a £2000 repair. Something is wrong here, either this engine has had major abuse or the full Lexus maintenance is a failure. Why was the noise not picked up during these services? If it's making an abnormal noise, something is wrong with it!, this bit is not rocket science I'm sure. I also have an old Merc 230e it's done 130k, the engine is quiet and and I expect to stay that way for another 100K! Likewise my LS 400, maintained by me.......regular oil changes, like the Lexus Service dept are supposed to be doing. What do other members think, is it me out of date?

If it's same arrangement as the LS400, the block lifts the wipers off the screen when they park.

Try part # 47775-30070 called boot, on the parts list as a seperate part. The little rubber bush on the end of the pin is part # 47769-50010 also shown as available seperately Check these as the upper and lower bush are different on my LS

Usually caused by air in the brake system Check each wheel for leaking brake fluid. Check brake fluid level is not so low as to allow air into the system. If not these may be a servo fault, seek professional help!

think Acetone is the solvent, but this wont do the leather any good.

Spot on Steve, a picture is worth a thousand words!

Don't know about interchange ability. Doesn't look too bad a job. From the manual, potted version.. Strap up the steering wheel with a seat belt to fix it in the straight ahead position. Put match marks on the universal joint and shaft,loosen the bolt on the upper side and remove the lower bolt to disconnect the u/j. Tilt up the brake cylinder and wire it up, don't disconnect the hose. Remove tie rod ends from the knuckle arm. Raise the transmission slightly and remove the gear housing-DO NOT DAMAGE THE TURN PRESSURE TUBES This is the bit you could do with the picture: place the whole rack on the floor with the gear housing at the centre point. measure from the start of the threads to the top of the lock nut at each end, should be 32mm. The other measurement is from the bracket to a line just in front of the pipes where they cross over the main rack tube-497mm, if this makes sense. Assembly realign match marks and refit u/j. After inserting rotation stopper in the valve housing holes,tighten union bolts to reconnect pressure and return hoses. Picture shows tab on upper joint at six oclock, tab on lower at 7oclock positions Refit caliper Finally check wheel centre point and toe-in Hope this is some use!

if high mileage and thin oil,may be using it between services?

Timing belt job depends how handy you are with the spanners! It's a slow job because of the dismantling involved and you need all info before you start.

Nice one Steve, I wondered where that relay was!

Plenty of snow and salt in Derbyshire! My 1990 Merc is corrosion free, Waxoyled ! Worth the cost or DIY

Brilliant ad, look at the bids, I'm nipping to the scrap yard to see what's available.....

I'm with tigerfish, battery complete failure. Nearest I had to this was in a Ford Granada, the alternator belts were slipping and when the voltage dropped right down every light on the dashboard came on.

I found the best and by far the quickest [you must have a compressor!]is to buy the gun that fits on the Waxoyl refill can. The one like a Schutz/stonechip can,and keep topping up. Set compressor 45/50psi, you can do the whole underside in about 15 minutes, then do the cavities with the lance thingy which is slower 'cos you have to may remove any blanking grommets. The 5 litre can is about £25 and you will have some left over,warm day best. Don't breathe spray in!your lungs wont go rusty.

No mine Is dark blue, think it's 'midnight indigo 8j5 mica'. You should have a local paint supplier who supplies the trade who will get it right.

You can do most jobs that you do on other makes if you are handy, oem parts are expensive but fortunately not needed too often. Bags of info on here and the USA LOC.

I had this problem, 2 shades for the same paint code, supplier 'phoned a friend' who mixed the correct colour

Usually spare masts on Ebay....

I had this, it was the sun roof leaking and the water trickled down near the tweeter......