GreyBeard

i don't think 14 years will deter someone more than 10 years will. but i agree other serious offences need higher sentences, particularly failing to stop when being involved in a personal injury accident.

i know this won't apply to any members, but tell your friends, relatives, etc!

did nobody reply to this? i can't believe they left you alone in the wilderness! i've just bought two new plastic 'silver' ones, which i guess you could spray with either a plastic primer, or a plastic specific black paint. as i'd contemplated making my front one gold, if you decide to replace yours, flog it to me cheap, please?

headlamp adjuster doesn't scream, so front end damage somewhere causing the glass to scrape against metal? key: i don't have a remote cos everything that was removable was removed from mine before i bought it at auction, but it does have to be re-set after a new battery. there's a mobile bloke does it for about a ton i think. based coventry or somesuch - i've the details somewhere if you want them. if it's too dear for mine, i'll get a multi chanel one and 'bolt it on' which will also give me boot open, tho i don't think the Mk1s have 'close windows and sunroof' but maybe i'm wrong there.

the seller says that a couple of them are slightly tarnished - as gold doesn't tarnish, exactly what finish have they got on them? or are they just gold looking plastic, which has deteriorated in the weather?

you found the electical raise and lower on the dash, right of the steering column? mine's fully UP but still not high enough unless the boots full, so i've got to adjust them too - i'll find it one day when it's not too cold outside!

that's too slow, but are you sure the rev counter is accurate? if you experience no running probs, it's probably your rev counter wrong - as the instruments are run from the same PSU as the temp guage, and clock/climate display (so i understand), then when it's fixed the revs might go higher.

i use super unleaded cos i like the effect it has (either on me or the engine, but it feels better than std unleaded!)

they are both via std members, Newbury one is 'maria' who is admin at D's autoelectrical on www.dsautoelectrical.co.uk or call Derek on 07796-268848, and the other one i'll have to track down cos he spammed me and i may not have kept it.

temp and time (and probably climate control) is fixable without spending a fortune - two companies, one in newbury and one in soton (also one or two in USA, but less convenient!!)

i told you not to look under the bonnet!!! enjoy your wonderful motor, and if you're ever near hungerford, give me a call and we'll kick each others tyres!

yes it does, cos mine was registered with a personalised number, then changed to a std 'H' reg later, and it has the correct data.

it copes with anything (except frying oil!) but tests that i've done over 1,000 miles show a better ride, smoother acceleration, and slightly more 'perky' if you use super unleaded. it's dearer, but then so's running a lexus, so just live with it!!

if you're worried about a few hundred here and there on ball-joints, and other bits and pieces, don't buy an LS400 - the parts are a kings ransome, the labour is usually £50/hour non-franchise garage and up to twice that at official lexus places. they were a richman's motor when they came out, and they still are, just a bit lower down the pecking order. having said that, i lavish TLC on mine, way beyond what is sensible, and enjoy the look, feel and presence of it - but i still run an escort to take to the shops, dogwalk, council tip, etc. and with parts and labour that are a pleasure to pay for, at about a quarter of the cost of the lexus. just go in with your eyes open AND WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T OPEN THE BONNET OR YOU'LL LOSE YOUR HEART FOREVER!!

at least he could have suggested acetylene fluid. (for the younger members, acetylene was used in car lamps before they were electric!)

oil filter is at about 45 degrees and 'open' end is uppermost. (according to my CD manual!) but i didn't have the time to search about the cover over the drain plug, tho i was told mine had one, but it's a 1990. CD manuals are cheap and reasonably good (although the first one i bought didn't run properly the second one does.)

forgot to mention, one of the members has got a gas converted green one, about 1994, for sale - this would save half a kings ransom each time you fill up!

where do you want me to start? 28mpg? only downhill, at 56mph. round town and non-motorway journeys 17 or so! engines may go on for ever, but the service parts and other bits that need replacing cost the earth. although GOLD members can get 15% off, it's still 15% off a large figure. (new rad £550 plus VAT, and nobody wants to repair them! and mine wasn't damaged, it just corroded through, maybe a previous owner had not used toyota antifreeze.) there's loads more like that, but, sailing's an expensive business with a poor payback, so why should't luxury motoring be the same?

enter the details here, and see if you get a result! http://www.drivearchive.com/

there's a much smaller club in newbury that has similar software, but which seems easier to navigate around, and additionally, if you click on a thread in one of the listings, the title of the thread changes colour, so when you go back to the list, you can see which ones you've read already. they also have a 'button' to click to go back to exactly where you were before opening a thread.

maria, i had a look, but it seems you have to use another ISP for your email, which presumably costs more to hire, but i'm not sure i've read it right. bob

i agree about the alternator topping up the volts needed to make the mirrors move properly - i would look for an earth fault - the mirrors almost certainly have an earth cable running to them from somewhere in the main car, as they wouldn't be able to rely on continuity between door hinges, and also the mirrors own pivoting/breakaway devices. my guess would be that the other end of the earthwire is corroded, or worse broken and the mirrors are earthing thro other equipment like the window lift motors, mirror heaters, etc. do the mirrors slow down more if you run the adjacent window?, or if the mirror heaters are on? it's also possible it's a problem with the common positive supply, but i'd plump for the earth. plus a decent volt/amp meter would help!

but when the light's on, assuming it's switched on by the computer and not by a wiring malfunction, then it also shuts down some of the 'fine tuning' of the engine which usually results in significantly lower performance. so removing the bulb (even if this were possible) would make no difference!

sounds good, except i think i'd like a colour screen. where did you get yours and at what cost?

and if all else fails read this just before you comit suicide! http://www.goldmembers.co.uk/loc/forums/in...p?showtopic=928