petejenkin

reminds me of when I wake up in the morning at look at the other half :)

I don't know yet, but probably not. When you see it you won't want to cover it anyway ;) Oh No, more stuff to polish......

Phew, thanks for that lads. I had a horrid thought that they could be something like a 1mm pitch thread or something silly. I havent removed any so I didnt know. Just for info for Mr Phonedrome, there are 3 types of metric thread; Metric Fine, Metric Standard and Metric Course (which are usually the larger diameter). A Mate of mine with a Nissan says that EVERY bolt on his car under the bonnet is a metric-fine thread with a pitch of 1.1 to 1.25mm, which means that standard metric bolts will not screw in as they have a standard pitch of 1.5 to 1.6mm. Now theres a bummer !! it cost him an absolute fortune for Anodised bolts....

Any more feedback yet on the -30mm springs. Has the testing finished?

I ordered a load of Anodised bolts, nuts, washers etc and have ben informed that ALL threads on the Lexus are Metric Fine Thread :o Is this right? I would have thought that non load bearing bolts would be a standard pitch on any car ? If they are metric fine, I better cancel the order rather sharpish. Any help would be great chaps.

Im trying to find some good discs before I can fit my new brakes. I was trying to buy some DBA ones but couldnt find any. Let me know the price Mr Prolex please. I want some for the back aswell though

Ive been in my house nearly 3 years, and so far Ive done the boys bedroom, the living room, and am currently doing the utility, kitchen and dining room all at the same time. The trouble is I just love experimenting with design, so its costing me a fortune and Im doing everything myself. All the rooms were totally gutted and started again from bear brick ! I did a complete before, during and after set of pictures, and sent one or two to ideal home magazine, they're talking about doing an editorial, which is OK but theyve no chance till its finished circa AD 2010 give or take a millenium. :) (plus I want pics of the lex in the drive B) DIY is good cos it saves a fortune, but *** it kills you in the process !

There is one implication. We must consider the fact that air box will be sealed right? I would personally leave a vent of somesort somewhere. The reason for this is that, we must consider the internal dimensions of the cold air box, and its volumetric capacity. We must also consider the demand for air when the car is experiencing rather alot of thrape (as mine does regularly). The demand for air will empty the air box within a millisecond and we must ensure that the ducting is of sufficient diameter and as unrestrictive as possible to enable that air box to be full all the time. Remember that without the airbox in place, the filter at the end of the induction tube has alot of area to draw air from. I would imagine that the spare space in that corner of the engine bay equates to about half a cubic meter with several areas where air can enter. An air box will be a fraction of this, with only one, possibly two intakes with a low internal diameter. If the car is demanding more air than what is FREELY available, then it will create a partial vacuum inside the box and basically the intake ducting will become a vacuum cleaner and have to suck the air in from outside, which is making the engine work harder for its air, therefore POWER LOSS. If I can remember my physics, isnt this called volumetric efficiency, or something like that.. :duh: I would personally place a vent toward the front of the air box, just to maximise air flow at high demand. This is only some of my theory folks, dont take it as gospel. I wonder if Mark at TDi would agree/disagree with any of my theories, or anyone else come to think of it.

That looks nice and Bling...... What does the mounting bracket bolt to ? My mounting bracket is situated further down the tube and the bracket is much longer and is bolted to one of the wiring loom brackets on the inner wing. Looks very nice though, will be interested to see it when its fitted and hear your remarks about power gains. I take it because it is very shiney, you wont be wrapping it?

Are there any places left for this event ? If there is, I might be able to get.

Ive got some ideas for a cold air box. Ive started making templates from cardboard, but am waiting now for the IS300 air intake to see if I can accommodate that into the equation.... What I plan to do is as I explained, cut a hole into the bottom of the inner wing and take some flexible ducting from the inlet next to the fog light. With the IS300 air intake fitted aswell, if this corner can be boxed in nicely, then this should improve things a little. Its a bit of a fiddly job to do, but with a little time and effort, it could pay dividends. Im also talking a bloke who runs a sheet metal business, he reckons he might be able to make the induction tube, mandrel bent for a fraction of the cost. we shall see........

Do we get to look after the keys aswell :D

I shall have some words with someone I know. My workshop isnt big enough for all my gear and your motor, but I do have some contacts............

Does it fit the IS200, or it need Mods to get it fit Pete? I think the sock is a standard length so I will probably have to cut it to length, we shall see. To answer an earlier question; The hole for the sensor is already drilled, you just remove your rubber grommet from the standard airbox and place into the pre-drilled hole.

Im getting the heat shield from Demon Tweeks. Its a proper "Sock" designed for induction tubes, and the nice bit is, it laces up like a doc martin with nice blue laces !! It will do the business, and co-ordinate well !! B)

Will there be a non-polished version available, just in case I decide to go down the route of heat shield wrap ? I cant see the point in buying a bling one if you aint gonna see it !

I thought that, but the manufacturers have obviously put some thought into it and cam up with a more direct reading. Perhaps its more accurate.....

Well in that case, I would be interested to receive a price based on supply only, and another for supply/fit. Photos would be nice too when available

Are these manifolds for N/A, or just for S/C Cars? Are they extended to replace the pre-cats? Is the manifold diameter matched to the bore of the exhaust port ?

Ive just ordered a proper induction tube heat shield. Should be here next week. Will post pics and some remarks when Ive tested it....

Ooops, for some reason chaps, the links only take you to the album, the pics are on page 269 and 270. Sorry lads, I dont know what Im doing.............. :duh:

Ok Guys, here are some pics of my Trust Induction Kit, featuring my new mechanic........ Monkey Magic My Mechanic has a big long sucking thing.... Another pic.... And another Pic..... Also, I have another idea, my mechanic Mr Monkey reckons if I were to bore a hole through the inner wing and insert some round ducting which is routed via the front vent next to the fog lights, this will most definately improve air flow considerably. This, combined with the IS300 air scoop should make some serious improvements especially at high speeds as the air flow would swirl in the airea of the filter, keeping the air flow as cool as possible........ here is a pic of what I mean Heres the idea.... Any suggestions would be most welcome chaps.

Ive been doing some work on this. The IS300 Scoop should work. The theory is, to develop moving air around the corner which the filter is situated in. It should work. Give me 5 mins and I will post some pics of the kit in a new topic under IS200 Modifications.......

I might stop over on the wednesday night if it finishes late, can anyone suggest a decent hotel nearby to the venue ?

Yes Please can I have one. PM me with payment details and I will sort it. If anyone wants a good induction kit, check out www.edgetuning.co.uk. Ive got mine on and its ace. well chuffed.. pics going on car in garage tomorrow....