Jaystar77

Fairly certain mine operates just like Daniel says. I've gone out to it many a morning to find I'd forgotten to lock it the night before. Age is a terrible thing!

Hi Jason, It's part of the UK so there shouldn't be any red tape hassle unless you are skipping across the border into the south. Which is well worth the trip, it's quite a varied island! Just touching on what Malcolm says yes there's a few rough areas (same as anywhere) but it's gotten a lot less prickly in previous years. Best advice is to keep politics, football and religious opinions to yourself unless you know who you are talking to. Try to avoid the July 'celebrations' too, it can get rowdy! Thanks to online car buying and the potential savings on the mainland there's a serious amount of UK registrations here nowadays which should help you blend in. Plenty of tourist spots in the north and the scenery can be epic on the right day.

Mine just flicked over the line too - I'm sure we will be fine! 😎

Unfortunately the first step with warning lamps is normally to check the logged fault codes and go from there so without an ODB reader it's a bit of a guess for the average DIY'er. Still well worth your time casting your eye around the engine bay wiring and components in case something is visually suspect. Hope fully it's something obvious (and cheap!) In some cases I think the VSC is tripped if the engine throws a fault so it should just be one initial fault rather than two separate issues.

Those look great Les, freshen up the whole vehicle 😎 I've had issues with corrosion affecting tyre pressures but it was on various older rims (talking 15-20 year old) so hopefully shouldn't be an issue for most of us. A 'proper' refurbishment of the alloys in question sorted them.

My apologies John, you are correct the coolant pump isn't actually tied into the timing chain operation. It looks more like the fact that the engine needs lifted slightly to get the pump out (?) could be more the issue. I've seen plenty of Toyota calipers over the years. Enough to just opt for fresh calipers when possible. Rebuilt quite a few so I realise the sliders are a weak spot but there have been many that the main piston has been the problem. Probably just part of owning quite a lot of older vehicles I guess!

I'm looking at doing the front brakes on mine (including the calipers) and it's looking like £100-ish for the pads and discs from M-Tech and around a £100 each for the calipers via a motorfactor on ebay. Rear discs were £100 and I only needed one caliper at £60 last year. When my suspension gives up the ghost I'd be shopping for a set of coilovers rather than spend £4-500 on two rear shocks. My man-maths makes that look like a more appealing option at least. Never priced up a waterpump but the timing chain will make it more a complicated operation most likely.

Sounds like the smarter thing to do Les, I had my RX350 set powder coated and put on my old RX300 and the finish seems a lot more study than the regular paint and lacquer. Low maintenance as well. My advice is to make sure you get a good look at the colour choices in person. I just asked for gunmetal/grey and it's a weird matt grey/green until the sun hits it. Should have taken the time to consider the options.

Thanks for posting this. I'm currently about 1000 miles away from doing the same job and was dreading the inlet mani removal. Definitely gives me another option now!

Doesn't move much at all, seems stuck up and didn't respond to lubrication. Bit like a few girls I've known 😄

Couldn't find any recent threads on the topic.. The aerial mounted in the quarterpanel has stopped retracting on switch off (fairly sure it doesn't owe anyone anything after 18 years of service) so it looks like I need to find a new one. Has anyone sourced a replacement outside of Lexus or tackled this issue lately? Need a steer on where to shop and what swearing is involved to replace it. Thanks in advance!

Good call on the front brake calipers - well worth checking. If the vehicle is making a grinding noise and it's holding back you could have a sticking one.

Yeah, checked these this morning and there's no illumination from my mirror controls so you can relax 🙂

Glad you are enjoying the jump up in ride height Michael. I don't think mine light up - will double check in the morning.

The gen 1 is like an old leather sofa to drive. It's a step back in time every time I drive it. For the daily drive I obviously prefer the gen 2 but the older stuff is built like a tank. In general a lot of people prefer older wagons. Technology has advanced so quickly in recent years that the features and systems are sometimes overwhelming and hard to live with. I drove a newish vw the other week which blasted out 4 warning messages before I even set off. The washer fluid low buzzer screamed for attention every couple of miles for 30 miles.. Poor car was stressing out. In comparison even when my RX has lost traction and I'm sliding out of control (I have since found my limits) all it does is gently clear it's throat and cough quietly to get my attention. Quite a different approach 🙂

I drive quite a few cars (work in the motor trade) and I'd say that it's because a RX of that vintage is just an incredibly comfortable place to be. The 1st gen is an even more relaxed and calm setting 🙂

Have a good one folks, will be nice to put the feet up for a few days peace

Much appreciated Herb, was looking something to do over the Xmas break and that sounds like just the mod!

Good to hear results Richard - nice work!

Good to hear from someone with clinical experience. That being said the accuracy of Toyota coolant temp sensors has always been more accurate in the lower half of the gauge, but once they reach operating temp it will only raise the needle if it sees a voltage reading that indicates the system is overheating. Just out of interest, which manufacturer was it? My head is tortured daily with VW testplans so you can understand why I drive a Lexus.

Okay lets narrow the band a bit, say 90-104 degrees, any happier? The question wasn't when will the fans kick in, it was when does the temp needle show an overheat situation. Sitting on a driveway with an OBD reader isn't going to answer this unless you disconnect the fans and let it cook a little.

I'm only going off what I've seen on other Toyota's in the past. The temps I mention aren't accurate, merely given to put the point across. Fit an aftermarket temperature sensor and take it to a track day and you will find there is a variation.

It's like owning a waterpark eh? 😁

All in the design. Yes, the instrument cluster needle sits at the mid point (usually regarded as 90 degrees in most vehicles) but in order to save any alarm it does this between say 85 and 114 degrees. The system brings the fan on well below the point at which the needle would move so you don't see any movement when things are operating normally. If it was overheating you will see it rise above the midway point pretty quickly - I had a fanbelt break on my Starlet and as it turns the waterpump I got to experience an overheat firsthand!

Hi John, I'm not a hybrid driver but.. The radiator fan is there to ensure the vehicle doesn't overheat. You should hear it after extended periods in slow traffic, hot days, etc. Certainly if the system is working harder to maintain it's safe operating temperature it could point to an issue so it could be worth investigating. Are you losing any coolant?