Jaystar77

I find this a bit worrying. My RX350 has been off the road for a year now (long story). I've disconnected the battery and just been using the key barrel on the drivers for access with no deadlocking issues. Basically just parked it in the long stay, locked it with the remote and unbolted the battery. Is there a way I could accidentally dead lock the vehicle and have to pick a window?

Fairly sure the thread size is M12x1.5 (same as most Toyota) and yes, the choice is a bit bewildering. I have bought a few different sets off ebay in the last few years with mixed results. Avoid anything cheap. Avoid anything aluminium. Avoid anything made in China (I now hear the Trump pronunciation whenever I type that). Nothing really beats genuine units for longevity but try to make sure those you choose are actually made of metal and not whatever cheese-alloy mix I keep having problems with 😆

Looks much better, really works well. I gave the centre caps on mine a blast of matt black as I didn't fancy the silver. (Which TBH actually suits them now I see yours!)

Thank you Ganesh, it's no RX but it is quite capable 🙂 Cost wise £180 is a cracking quote. Mine were £330 for all four although 3 were buckled and the caps needed painting too. (That was for a set of 17"). On my RX300 I did get a set of 18" rims powder-coated for cheaper (£240 iirc) but wasn't really happy with the finish. Might be worth asking to see examples of workmanship prior to work to save any potential hassle.

Forgive the fact it's not a RX.. Had these done a matt effect gunmetal and thought it went well with the silver : A lot better than the silver they were before. Also quite a lot easier to keep clean!

I'll be looking for something to replace my (slightly crumpled) RX350 in due course and despite being tempted by the cheaper road tax and running costs of a 400 will be shopping for another 350. That 2GR engine is a cracker 😎 3. Check for any oil weeping down the back of the engine. There's a pipe that can perish which feeds the cams, don't think the 400 has the same issue.

Yep, Sod's law is what I'm used too as well. I tackled it in the summer so used a spray bottle for testing purposes 🙂

Sounds like the same issue I had too Ray. Here's a post I made at the time, might help : Had to take the passenger side roof rail off and find the rear most seam on the roof has the slightest of nicks in it. Whenever the rainwater was rolling off the roof into the 'gutter' it was running right over the pinhole creating my issue. I've attached a few pics in case anyone else encounters the same. I checked the driverside and the same thing has happened there although the leak was nowhere near as bad. It really doesn't look like much but the amount of water that this tiny crack in the seam was letting in was shocking. I applied some seam sealer all along the welded seams that I could find on both sides. A good heavy instant gasket would probably do the same job just make sure everything is dry before application. After sorting this I still have a slight weep from the rear lamp gaskets but that's a side effect of looking for leaks - you always find more! You should strip the boot floor storage out and clear it of water before it starts to smell too much too. Leave it stripped until you are happy the leak is fixed.

I struggled for access to the rear drains. Ended up feeding a length of thick soldering wire up the tubes from the drain points so as the wire came out in the depths of the sunroof frame. This let me know that at least they were not blocked. Have you taken the roof rails off? There's a gasket and bolts on each foot which I replaced just to be certain. Also sealed the roof seams whilst it was all off - the seams ended up being the 'real' problem albeit further back around the hatch area.

Saw this and thought of this thread: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-wiltshire-51326361

Seconding some pictures please, really like Crowns! 😊 If you can give us some model codes we might be able to track down the brochure specs.

Seasons greetings and advertising campaigns to you all, same time next year?

I actually love a good gun metal grey so that colour scheme looks absolutely spot on to me - health to enjoy Les!

Sorry to hear of the drama Stuart, at least now you know the facts you can deal with it. She should take some consolidation in the fact this happens every day across the country. She isn't the first and won't be the last to make the same mistake. Might be worth checking with her insurance in case the policy has misfuelling cover on it. We would see this in work and sometimes the customers can claim some/all of the costs back as an insurance claim. Could be an easy resolution for the sake of a phone call. Really wouldn't like anyone to get hit with a 6k bill this close to Xmas!

I'm guessing most of that was Japanese, although the vehicle had been in the country for 5 years and no-one had thought to check that filter out. Thankfully I had one ready to fit as part of it's first service with me. Only got the diff oil to change and it's a clean sheet again!

Japanese Eye Blossom is a particularly strong seller this year 😄

Such times as this Barry 😄 From my imported Caldina, explained the poor ventilation and odd smells!

Just looked at (what I hope are the correct) engine specs and you can see whilst both engines are based on the 2GR, the GS uses the 2GR-FSE and the RX uses a variation of it, the 2GR-FXE. Most likely that the characteristics of both engines have played a part in their selection. Probably find that the higher compression RX unit delivers more usable power across the rev range compared to the GS which has been tuned for a higher overall output. Looking at the cubic capacities, bores and strokes I'd guess the pistons are the only physical difference between both units. Anyone had both apart to know for sure? I've no hybrid experience but the electric motors will also play a large part in power delivery. GS has 1 and the RX has 2. Would be nice if we could find some dyno-graphs to show how the engines perform on the rollers 🙂 Here's the specs I was running off: https://media.toyota.co.uk/wp-content/files_mf/1372844679LEXUSRX450hTECHNICALSPECIFICATIONS130211M.pdf (RX450H) https://media.toyota.co.uk/wp-content/files_mf/1319280368tech_spec.pdf (GS450H)

You really do have to wonder - they quite happily take your money to insure a car of that age then refuse to pay out because the car is too old? That's can't be right surely?

As Peter mentioned, looks like the membrane in behind the door trim that seals the void in the door shell : http://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/eu/2013/is250-300h/ave30l-aexehw/1_242530_001_558W/body/6701_front-door-panel-glass?pnn=67832&pa=6783253060 Hope that helps, Jay

No worries Ez, the pictures I took back at the time are lost by the looks of it but here's the parts diagram showing the one piece rear drain: http://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/eu/2006/rx300-330-350/gsu35r-awagkw/3_521220_008_350W/body/6104_roof-panel-back-window-glass/3 The drains (ID number is 63249E) head down the rear D-pillars from the roof and exit the vehicle floor behind the rear wheel arches. As I had to take the boot floor trims out to dry it all (a puddle had formed in there) I was able to loosen off the two side trims around the wheel arches. If you do this you can make sure the drains are connected to the floor correctly. Your mechanic could probably just push the strimmer wire/solder wire up the drain from below the car. Make sure he's prepared for a downpour just in case it unblocks.

Sorry to hear of the troubles. When I was tackling a rear cabin leak on my RX I struggled to access the rear drains at the roof area (they seemed to be buried right at the back corners). By removing the sidetrims in the boot I could find the other ends though. Figured that would just have to do and cut them open to run the wire up the way instead and taped them back up securely afterwards. Not exactly ideal but at least I could make sure they were clear. As a sidenote, my leaks were the result of poorly constructed seams. Well worth checking if you are experiencing any rear pillar ingress.

Few rolls of this down each sill? Seriously though, there's not much you can do. Just straight-pipe to stop it happening again, they can't steal what's not there. Still.. could be worse (CLICKME)

Those fender lamps are a great touch. It really is a fantastic slice of JDM metal, much more interesting than the normal BMW or VW diesel. Health to enjoy!

If it were me I'd re-examine the loom, just in case the damage was worse than first thought. Just going on your description of what isn't working it sounds like something is shorting out, especially if the battery is going flat (had the same fun with a parasitic drain on an MR2 years back). A good auto-spark should be able to trace this by pulling the fuses one by one until the drain disappears. That might give them a bead on where your fault lies. I'm probably off on the wrong tangent and it's nothing to do with wiring! Keep us posted and good luck with getting it sorted.