dr_rick

I went for these ones in the end... https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/w5w-led-driving-6000k-cool-white-twin Took about 30mins to do the change of both bulbs. Most of that was spent removing trim / airbox bolts to get access to the covers, and the refitting of them afterwards.

And we're done....

Previous owner had the 60k done at 52.5k. Cost equivalent to what you've noted, and he does like to haggle...

Wash your mouth out! I do about 65 miles a day, 5 days a week. So definitely north of 10k a year, and a portion of those miles driven 'properly' too. They're cars, not Picasso's.

Ah, that makes it easy doesn't it. Shows that I try to stay away from the electrickery!! Ta, will get some ordered.

@Arqum, will those need a CANbus warning canceller too, or are they just plug and play?

With this in mind, does anyone know of any sensible UK based vendors of LED sidelights? Much as there is eBay, I'm yet to be convinced that I won't be swapping the bulbs multiple times if I go down that route, or be having flickering or dashboard warnings.

Just to round this one off, I installed the lights myself, and then took the car to a local auto-electrician for final wiring connection he charged me for an hours time / £45. Could be worse. Conclusion, the DRL are really bright, I have used the 100% brightness option that is available in the wiring diagram, and the guy set it so I can have DRL, DRL/sidelights, headlights, headlights/fogs. Some photies then. DRL only... I need some white LED sidelights.... And the combo of lowbeams and fogs...

Really? Which Lexus? Knowing my luck, they'd not be plug and play for a 2010 ISF.

Can't see YouTube at work. What's the difference between those ones and the OSRAM ones?

Not quite, @madasahatter. Wire to GND at battery (recommended, but earth point is an option). Wire to +ve at battery. Flying lead to determine brightness of DRL (+ve for full power, GND for 50% or 80% I can't remember). Blue lead currently has spade end needs a switched live. White lead to clip / splice with existing sidelight wiring. Plug lead to go to right DRL unit. Plug lead to go to left DRL unit. Plug lead to existing fog lead. Blanking plug for opposite side fog lead. Then there's the clip / splice options: Wire to go to hazard wiring so DRL's flash with hazards. Wire to go to left indicator so DRL dims when indicating left. Wire to go to right indicator so DRL dims when indicating right. These last one's I'm not going to do, so I'll have to tidy the extra wires up, probably by cutting them short and putting caps on them.

Ah, completely forgot you had the lights done on a Merc. I have a feeling I may chicken out of the final control box install. I figure I can save a few quid by doing the light install and routing their cables, then I can leave the final connection to an auto-electrician.

Right, so the front washer appears to be switched live in the engine bay fuse box. Which is nice. @NemesisUK, one last question (hopefully). Where did your installer put the OSRAM control box? I'm now realising that there's not much space in the engine bay, unless you extend the supplied wires. At a push, it could go on top of the big fuse box, but the trim on the right side that sit over the fuse box would need different fixings to hold it down. Unfortunately I can't use the space to the right of the battery as I have a control box for the exhaust valves there, and then there's the grounding points, so I don't want to cover them up. Anyway, putting it there would be too much for the cables to the fog lamps. It's almost as if it needs to go at the main fuse box, or down the front and extend the wires.

Mine is semi debadged; when I got it, the 'Lexus' was missing from the rear, but it still has the ISF bit. My grille surround has been painted Obsidian Black too. I've just had the windows tinted and I think I'm going to plastidip the rear badges and the window surrounds. Going for the murdered out look.

So, going to tackle (hopefully) some OSRAM DRLFog lights into a 2010 ISF. Does anyone know of a switched live wire that is easily accessible, in the engine bay?I'm trying to avoid taking a wire into the cabin if I can get away with it. Not really looked myself, but weather here in Edinburgh is rough, so I'm avoiding heading out right now.

@NemesisUK, don't suppose you could have a look at where your wired in DRL units have been tapped into the engine bay could you? I think my note above isn't going to work. Every search I do talks about tapping into the cigarette lighter in the cabin, but I'd like to find something in the engine bay. i can see CIG listed in the type a box, but against an 80A fuse. My guess in that this will turn out to be permanent live. Surely someone has noted a switched live in the engine bay?

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha (breathe) ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha I'm not paying that price. I'd rather runt he gauntlet of an eBay purchase from the States and see what HMRC make of the package on the way in.

Damn you, @emjay82!! (Metaphorical / digital shaking fist) ;) The hunt continues...

Next dibs on the HPS @DT_Racing if it becomes available, please. Let me know the damage.

I actually organised the tints via Scot-Tint, who are in New bridge, but the job itself was subbied out to National Tints when at the last minute Scot-Tint had roof damage due to Storm Barbara. national do work for Scot Tint. To early to tell on recommendations yet as the tints are still drying off finally. I do get a warranty from Scot-Tint. I'll feedback though. Because a previous owner as done a poor removal job of the old tint, the fitter had to remove the rear seats and parcel shelf, so it took a little longer. Thankfully the 38 bus goes straight into town.

Done; 20% tints. Just need to give it a few days to dry out properly and all will be good. That and I need to clean the outside a bit

Little reading of the manual suggests that we should have a Type B fuse box (more square than the Type A which is long thin) in the engine bay. Looking at the diagram, the obvious choice would be o piggyback onto fuse 24, which is a 15A associated with the Front Fogs. Unless, that requires headlights to be active first, in which case I'll use fuse 22, which is a 20A associated with windshield washer. Need a trip to Halfords

Them's the one's. DRL under normal conditions, the switch off with headlights, and there are fogs too. Not going to do the optional single switch off with indicators, or the double flash with hazards. The distructions that come with them are generic graphics. Useful but not helpful. I'm trying to avoid full front bumper removal. Think I should be able to feed the cables around. Just need the switched live.

So, going to tackle (hopefully) some OSRAM DRLFog lights. Does anyone know of a switched live wire that is easily accessible, in the engine bay?I'm trying to avoid taking a wire into the cabin if I can get away with it. Not really looked myself, but weather here in Edinburgh is rough, so I'm avoiding heading out right now.