Texas

"highly recommended" please expand on this, how so? And got any pics? I personally don't like the look of any screws in number plates myself but when I fitted mine ( with super sticky pads ) I did think about doing away with the black plastic mounting bracket at the front and stick the plate directly onto the bumper but was a bit concerned About the curvature being placed on the plate! paul m.

I only recently got my 250 and it has done similar low mileage by the previous owner ( approx 3500 per annum!) I have only put about 50 miles on it so far as I have been working away :( but I have fitted a PO-40 module and when doing so I disconnected the battery, so now the car is going to get all its sensor inputs from My style of driving!!!! Upto my other car ( 16 yr old MkIII 1.8 petrol Mondeo) it pulls like a Dozen Donkeys and wants to keep going so I am going to have to be a good boy to keep a clean license! Very impressed with it so far. paul m.

Trying to find a link I had that explains a Soft ECU reset very well,..... TaaDaaah...Found it. http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html My other car is a MkIII Mondeo and I have been posting on the TalkFord forum for some time now, hopefully helping a lot of people overcome their problems and more importantly saving hard earned cash. This link is for the ECU fitted to the Ford and explains exactly what a 'Drive Cycle' is and why it is required after a soft ECU reset, hope it explains a bit deeper. But put in quite simple terms I normally tell people that the ECU recieves info from numerous sensors to make 'Decisions'. These sensors have a 'normal range of operation' and if they got out of this range then the ECU can compensate and ultimately if it can't then it will go into a default mode of operation or 'Limp Home'. so when an ECU is powered up for the first time ( after battery removal) then it likes to get aquainted with all its input sensors, the 'Drive Cycle' is required to make sure that all the sensors are put to use and recognised by the ECU. paul m.

Well just went back inside the drivers door today as weather was brilliant ( Bank Holiday in UK so should have been raining!) and rewired the Loom as per 'JumboJake's' post and works a treat now, mirrors fold on first stage of locking just as I wanted. cheers Paul M.

Sounds like he really don't wanna strip em down again and do a proper job! By proper I mean spend a bit of time ensuring all contact surfaces ( excluding the friction material of course) are cleaned with a small wire brush and then smeared with a bit of copper grease, the minimal time spent doing this can elevate this annoying squeal you now have and I bet he takes the time to do this procedure to his own daily driver to have a quiet ride! Basic's really but 9 times out of ten you won't get any squeal but on an auto car I feel the brakes are used a lot more at slow speeds than they would be on a manual car so best done. paul m.

What would you call a " perfect Mk2 SE-L"? paul m.

Clause (c) could potentially catch a few claimants out I would have thought but depends if the actual garage are on top of these conditions being adhered to. paul m.

Almost exactly the same scenario as myself ( recently got a ten year old SE-L with FLSH and standing at just under 38,000 miles) a London based car that prob had a parking space each end of it's ( my estimate) 15 mile a day commute as the body work is in an excellent condition. But now I have it the journeys will be at least twice as long but the number of them will be greatly reduced. I have always religiously changed all of our vehicles engine oil/filters @ 5,000 miles and will continue to do so with the IS ( probably could use the Fully Synthetic that comes out of the IS in son's polo ha!) paul m.

Question 'Shahpor' I can see that your car is down as a 2008 year so does this mean that next year ( when the car will be 10 years old) the warranty will no longer be available as I recall there was a ten year old vehicle limitation? paul m.

Do you get Warranty or Not? Crystal Ball required on this topic I feel. But I'm getting the feeling it's not the actual car ( like I mentioned previous the 250 is One of the most reliable cars out there for actual breakdowns, meaning unable to drive) but piece of mind for the owner as a precautionary measure somehow? So some people will lean to paying a ( let's face it, significant) fee for this and others ( ie Me) will not. Paul m.

Was it actually the switch failed ( therefore NO brake lights would work) or will this warning come up if you had only One lamp that has failed? paul m.

Reverse up against a wall ( if you have no friends to help!) and check brake light lamps ( X3) are working.

Bigest problem might be getting seller of your potential second/third(is it possible to have more than two) key to confirm that it has been erased. Paul m.

+1 on 'funding your own warranty' so to speak with what you would have given to pay for one, did not realise the 10 year stipulation so that counts me out on that front anyway. Like I (and others) have mentioned you choose to own a known uber reliable car and then consider extra warranties? .have faith is what I say and if I would have covered all my motoring years with warranties then I dread to think what it would have cost and I can't really remember any bank busting repairs ( that prob wouldn't have been covered anyway!!!). paul m.

I am doubting myself as to ' should I write this'. ( don't want to go and jinx myself) Very recently ( done about 35 miles in it so far I reckon!) bought myself an IS250 SE-L after much shopping around and looking at some that were overpriced/defective am now the proud owner of a 37k mile 57 Plate I think beauty ( got Sunroof and Active Cruise) but no Dealer Warranty or such like.....I like to think that one of the most ( if not the most ) reliable cars out there might not be such a gamble to have without a warranty. Only time may tell but I do not intend abusing this car in the slightest and will prob do about 4K a year so fingers crossed it may be (expensive) trouble free. ( famous last words) paul m.

How 'easy' was it to actually change the digitiser in the unit once the unit has been removed from dash. the reason I ask this is not because my digitiser has failed but if it ever does then as I have had the entertainment unit out of the dash recently and now know how easy that is then I can decide whether to take on doing the screen change myself or not as the case may be.

Thank you Jumbojake very helpful.

Thanks chaps, Deffo going back in there then. paul m.

Mirrors do indeed fold fine on deadlocking, but to be honest I don't always dead lock my cars when locking them up, naughty boy! But I do want the mirrors folded to confirm the car is at least locked to first stage. will go in and try and sort it some time! paul m.

That's exactly what I wanna ask, which wires did you use to achieve this!!!!!!!! i followed instructions to the letter but it mentions nothing about deadlocking anywhere. might get amongst it later and check to find which colour wires actually give a pulse on lock/unlock in connector 'C' according to instructions this is what is required.

That's good to know then ( dead locking required to fold mirrors) As for the Frost then yes, prevention is better then fixing.... I have seen ( maybe on ClubLexus Site) that the mirrors folding motor drive and gearing system can be 'serviced' and lubed to maintain it in tip top condition. cheers Paul M.

Good result there then chap. paul m.

I might be dreaming it (won't be the first time) but I think someone has had this problem before on this forum ( can't find it right now as the search function is pants if you ask me! ) and leaving the battery disconnected overnight might have made a difference, just another no-cost action to try. paul m.

If you haven't done so already after this mishap, do a soft re-set of the ECU to clear out the volatile memerory, do this by dis-connecting the battery - ( Negative terminal ) for a short period of time ie 15-30 minutes to allow all residual current to disapate. Note: unless you have electrically insulated Spanners ( I don't! ) always disconnect the - ( Negative Terminal ) first. There is a chance that if you disconnect the + ( Positive Terminal ) first with a metallic tool then that tool could inadvertently touch the surrounding metalwork of the vehicle and before you know it you are Arc Welding. Paul M.

Hi folks, today I managed (between precipitation ) to finally install the PO-40 folding mirror module into my 250 SE-L, must say the hardest part of the whole operation was trying to exert just enough uumph to remove the door card via its plastic retaining clips. Although I say so myself I tried to do a top quality job with spliced/soldered and shrink tube joints all covered in black tape! But I have one question to ask of anyone who has installed this module and that is when the car is locked ( via keyfob or handle button) should the mirrors fold in when the car is locked (first stage locking) or only when the car is Deadlocked ie two pushes of either button (fob or door). The reason I ask this is because trawling through all the documents I can find on line for the PO-40 some state there might be a problem with one of the wires on some models not being able to supply enough power until the central locking is 'woken up' so to speak and then it allows the folding of the mirrors, so I am thinking the mirrors should be capable of being folded in on the first stage locking if enough power was available. Hope this makes sense what I am asking? So basically does anyone have a PO-40 installed that folds in your mirrors on the first press of a 'Lock' button? thanks in advance, paul m.