wharfhouse

I have never replaced rubbers on previous cars. A good clean and lubrication (as pre previous email for type of spray) would usually last a year or more - that's running cars to 10 years old and up to 200k miles.

Personally I don't think it's worth pressing the EV mode unless I am just moving the car a few metres on the driveway or when I first start it up and sat stationary for a while (like sorting out the sat nav or something). You are right with the advice given about accelerate reasonably quickly and smoothly to the desired speed - if you then lift off the accelerator completely for a split second and you under about 45mph with a decent amount of battery (at least in ECO mode anyway) the car will go into EV mode on it's own straight away - if you use ** very ** light throttle / coasting to maintain a constant speed when driving below 45mph the car can go a surprisingly long way on EV with only very limited time running the engine if you need to accelerate back up to speed again. It's quite common to see 50 - 60+ miles per gallon (UK gallons) in these circumstances. Cold weather definitely reduces efficiency - partly due to the engine running to maintain heat and heat the car and partly due I assume to batteries not working so well when it's cold until they warm up.

Don't have it on my Lexus but have had it on other cars in the past - generally cured it by making sure the horizontal rubber at the base of the window is nice and clean - wind down the window fully and really clean the rubber where it touches the glass - it collects a lot of dirt in there as it "scrapes" everything off the window each time it goes down. You can also try spraying a bit of lubrication in the vertical side channel - not much though or it will get all over the window.

Could be - all down to volume of work a dealer will get I suppose

As per an earlier reply Jemca (Toyota and Lexus) do too as I took my Lexus to their bodyshop in Bracknell.

Definitely check it's not polishing compound - with a white car I guess it's would be the same colour. But if not then you are entitled to having the car back as good as before the accident so I would complain. As to the wheel could be aging or slight darkening from brake dust on the original alloys. Can't see any reason that it is anything but a new wheel. Check on who did the repair - I would have thought Inchcape may have their own body shops (may repair all the different brands that they sell).

My Lexus was repaired at Jemca Toyota Bracknell - Jemca are Lexus and Toyota dealers - I went through Lexus Reading

Windscreen washer bottle sensor stopped working - replaced under extended warranty

I am logged in and first screen see the 4x main categories in the tabs and the categories and sub list below the header tabs - if I click on one of the tabs (or top of the list) I get a list of hyperlink for various sections and then if I click on one of those I get a list of part numbers and description and sometimes a price like this - but can't find any parts list diagrams...

I tried this site previously and registered as thought it might be useful - just had another look but I can't see any diagrams just the parts lists?

Glad to hear that you found it too

A couple of years ago I bought an older version than is currently available (it was the db Power 400A 12000mAh) which came with mains and car charger. I haven't had a need to use it to start a car but appears to be well made and gets good reviews. I have used it to power a mobile phone but that's about it. I take it out of the car every 3 to 4 months and check the charge which is always nearly full when I do - I plug it in to top it off and then put it back in the car for another few months.

Unfortunately I couldn't have a copy of the list of parts as it was an insurance job and so don't have the details now. I don't think the radiator was on the list but I think the condenser may have been. On the grille not sure either. Regards the loom they said when the lower section was ripped out it ripped the fog lamp wires out from the loom and tracing it back there was no other plug and socket break in the loom in the engine bay and so to put it back good as new had to replace the whole loom in the engine bay... As you say an alternative would have been to splice new wiring in but then as it's insurance and the 3rd party (lorry driver) was at fault that's what it took to put it back to as new. I guess it's not a common part so they get to charge what they like! It is surprising the damage a lorry tyre can do hit at 70mph (it was dark and I never even saw it) however a lot of that area is plastic which simply disintegrated. Three cars hit the tyre (I was the first and punted it across the lanes) - one of the other cars looked to have similar damage to mine (an Audi) and a BMW had lighter damage and so was still drivable. It was with Lexus for 8 weeks for repairs but quite a bit of that time was investing for the insurance company the cost as it was marginal whether to repair or write off and the insurance company were keen to make sure the damage wasn't going to be worse than first estimated if the repair was started. The 3rd party insurer also paid for a hire car for me for the 8 weeks too (Mercedes C Class). Dread to think what the total insurance cost of repairing all three cars was! Good luck with your repairs - hope you get it back on the road at a sensible cost - they are excellent cars.

Personally I wouldn't sweat about it. If you have taken it to a Lexus body shop and the 3rd party insurance is paying then you are entitled to a good as before repair, whatever that takes. Lexus know that and so why would they not do the best job possible regardless of cost. In my experience, when I had my collision and the 3rd party insurance paid and Lexus did the repair, they certainly did not scrimp on anything and handled everything on my behalf with the insurance company. A bit like your earlier comment I was thinking that it wouldn't feel the same car but when I saw the repair (and I examined it very, very closely) I honestly could not tell that any work had been done.

I found the three images that I took on the side of the motorway of my damage - it was night so a bit difficult to see - but you can see the extent of the damage and similarity. Looks like the pop-up hood activated on yours too which will need new parts too (it didn't on mine fortunately).

The parts list I looked at after my accident ran to 3 pages - from parts of a few pence to the harness at £4k. I didn't have any suspension damage and I think that's what kept it under write off value. The insurance company took a long time deciding and asked Lexus to double check before they sanctioned repairs.

It will be interesting what it costs to repair that. I hit a lorry tyre on the motorway a year ago on the front nearside and sustained similar damage though not as bad as that (no metal body work damage just the bumper fog light and DRL etc) and the insurance repair cost was £13,000 - just under the write off value. The repair was done at Lexus and was perfect but the car was in the body shop for 8 weeks. Mine did need a new wiring loom in the engine bay as where the fog light was ripped out it damaged the wiring and it is all one harness (fog light isn't on a plug) and so to put it back to factory spec they wouldn't splice anything in - the part harness cost £4,000...

Further into the compartment - more towards the back seat.

Insurance job vs non-insurance job. Same with any car. If done on insurance (especially when it's not your fault) the car must be repaired to the same standard as it left the factory - if you are paying yourself then you're probably prepared to cut a few corners - still can be an excellent job but may be carried out a bit differently. Had experience of this on my daughter's (old) Fiesta. Someone hit her car and it needed front wing and headlight. Car would have been a write off as insurance repair costs came to some £1,600. I got some independent quotes and when I spoke to the insurance as the 3rd party and my daughter were with the same insurer they agreed to pay me the money direct for my independent quote of £850 and so not write it off. Bodyshop used genuine Ford parts and did an excellent job. Some of the "extra" checks for insurance weren't needed and hence the saving...

Out of curiosity I had a look behind the panel on the left and I do indeed have a jack in there. Until this thread hadn't ever bothered to check!

Funny - I did some karting a few months ago and could left foot brake and modulate quite happily - really enjoyed it - but when I tried it in a road car like you just couldn't stop smoothly... so gave up on it for road cars - also drive wife's and daughter's manual cars from time to time anyway so probably best not doing left foot braking anyway!

Wouldn't have thought a write off. I had my IS 300h repaired at a Lexus / Toyota body shop after hitting a lorry tyre at night on the motorway (puncture on the lorry shed it's tyre - myself and two other cars hit the tyre - fortunately the lorry had stopped so we could get details and his insurance paid). Came to £13,000 of repairs for just my car! However excellent job done and wouldn't know it had been repaired. Hope all goes well with yours.

So the concensus is that it's quite common and not a problem then?

Pull the left hand side vertical panel - that's where the 12V battery is - not the floor

According to the manual if it has one it's in with the battery (left hand side looking at the boot from the rear) - never actually checked on mine...!