Mr Vlad

I 2nd it that you get your dealer to double check the brake light switch is adjusted correctly. I'e had that same problem with a coupleof cars over the years. It's not a hybrid thing.

Yeah it's a bummer when scroats knick nice valve caps. Just replace with the same. Hopefully those scroats won't appear again.

I had a look on the Castrol site to see what oil they recommend. What gets me is I'm gobsmacked why a none turbo engine needs fully synthetic oil. Castrol suggest a 5w20 fully synthetic. Me? I put Zx1 in my car as soon as I got it home (as I've done with all my cars since I first saw the stuff) and I'll use a semi synthetic oil when the time comes which is more than capable of lubricating the is300h engine.

I'l ask on the Ford forums if the same happens. I can' remember on the cars I've had. I'l post replies as and when. Yes I think Toyota / Lexus need approaching to see if they can sort this irritation out.

Well I tried an experiment today and was quite suprised by the result. If I indicate right and turn my steering wheel 90° to the left then the indicator turns off. The same happens indicating left and steering wheel to the right 90°. I have also noticed there is No mechanical click noise to state indicator turned off. I've not noticed a detant. The system must be electronic. I don't think there is a fault with your car. It's just how it is however bizarre it is.

I have to state that my last 5 Fords have had quick clearing windscreens and none of them had wiggly wires within the glass. The wires were visible in certain light conditions and they were in a square pattern. Ford forum members even complain about them but only a minority But it's a ruddy good system none the less. Since learning how to use mine now on a single button press I'm impressed how quick the screen clears.

Ah Thackeray I get you now. I' also find that irritating. I'l make a mental note to notice what mine does. But I'd suggest there may be a fault within the steering wheel/shaft causing that. My apologies for misreading earlier in your thread.

Now isn' it interesting what you find on a forum. The default 3 signal is standard wirh just about all manufacturers but it' good that it can be changed. 5 sounds good to me and I'll have a play soon. As for the indicators going off after you've turned your wheel. It's supposed to happen like that otherwise they'd never cancel till you did it. Try a different turn angle with your steering wheel so you miss the detant that cancels the signal.

I'd have thought that door edge protectors were available here. After all door anti chip protectors are available as I have them on my car. Look awful tho if damaged (must get round to lexus to get them to swap one gratis )

There are cars advertised as Premier but do not have ML. I've seen a few. Mind you I've also seen f sports with ML which almost took my fancy till I settled on my beauty.

Well William as I stated I would I'm reporting my findings. I switched to auto and then drive to normal. I then started the car then pressed the demist button and hey presto 1 click to demist. Thanks pal. Oh. It works in eco too as I tried it whilst at some lights. The fan sped up to max. Happy bunny now.

Yup good point bratman. I wouldn' go bankrupt because my union would do the case should it ever happen. But I now remember some years ago a repair was done substandard to me. I refused it and the insurance company took the car elsewhere and a good proper job was done. Ok it was in the 90's and probably things are different.

Thanks William. As it happens I only drive in either eco or sport when I want to be silly lol. I'l switch to normal and see what happens and report back. Thanks again.

Well I asked on the ford forums I'm still on and the patent ran out 2-3 years ago and is now used by a few other manufacturers. I've changed the setting to auto so I'll see the difference in the morning at 4.30am and report later tomorrow.

Excellent point Thackeray. I'll check the settings (I'm sure they'e on manual ) The ford demister is a windscreen fitted with 000's of ultra thin wires which in conjunction with the fan demists the screen in literally seconds. As to it being patented I'm unsure. I'll find out .

Talking of demisting. On my car the rear demists quickly. It takes a little longer to clear exterior frost tho. However the only thing that bugs me about my car is demisting the front screen. To clear the front screen takes approximately 12 or more presses of 3 different buttons. My last 4 fords had One button to clear the screen in literally seconds. Why oh why has a top notch manufacturer of cars decided to have an archaic method to clear the windscreen. Oh and don' reply with there is one button to clear the windscreen. I press that. Then I press the fan speed to max then I slide the temp to max

Good point parkman and quite true having read similar in other car forums. However if my celestial black is300h had to have an insurance body repair and they instructed the repairer to 'skimp' the repair then after I would inspect the repair and not be happy with it and I would get all the info from the repairer I'd let the insurance company knowand threaten them with legal action if the repair was not up to manufacturer quality. All my insurance policies have had built in to them a top notch repair. But this threads originator isn't going thru his insurance. He's paying cash.

Hi Alan. That's a bummer. I'l get back to this thread with a name and number for you. This place I've experienced is top notch. I had a Deep Impact Blue ford focus which is a stunning metallic blue. I had a rear wing including a roof section and black plastic trim colour matched. I was gobsmacked by how good it was. They use a very clever camera which scans the car at many different angles then it tells the computerised paint mixer what to mix and hey presto. Ok this paint shop is in Openshaw Manchester but you're not too far. I'l post details when I get home from work.

What a good thread this is. My own experience is @70mph my average is knocking on the door of 50mpg. My commute is 14 Mikes one way consisting of 1 mile at 30 mph then 2 miles accelerating uphill to 70 mph then a further few Mikes at ahem 80 mph then I'm on a 40 mph limit road for a couple miles on battery. Then back on the motorway at 70 then an A road at 30 mph. Going to work at 430 am I'm getting 50 to 52 mpg. On the way home at about 3pm I do use the sport to enter the motorway from the traffic lights and I Do floor it to near 80. When on the 40 road I'm on battery most of the time. My average falls to between 42 and 44 mpg. I'm chuffed wirh that and it' better than the diesel fords I've had lol.

Mmmmmm if that' the case that would explain it. I didn' think about that section being the radio aerial. Cheers pal.

Sorry if this has been brought up before but on your is300h do all the elements work in the rear screen to demist? I've noticed that the top 4 of mine don't work leaving a 3-4 inch band of humidity on the screen. I'm just asking as a kind of census.

I notice a groaning type noise on slow braking too. It sounds to me like it' s discs being cleaned by the pads. It doesn't bother me one iota. It also sounds like a regeneration progress noise. I only notice it really in between music tracks if I happen to be braking.

Hi. I get full bars regularly but to be honest the bar display could be better as the very top of that part of the screen always looks as tho it has space for another of those blue blocks. I drive on motorways making sure I see the arrow from the engine to the batteries is always on ready for when I switch to Sport and floor it. I love it.

Paul. You can actually exceed ML performance by 1stly sound deadening the door skins. Then replace the speakers with uprated items. Also introduce an external power amp to drive those speakers. Then get the Alpine SWE 815 subwoofer. I have one and it totally belies it's size and is better than the ML sub. In my mondeo it was fitted with uprated speakers and an amp. Fully sound deadened and playing Bach toccata and fugue the bass notes shook the car. The ML doesn' t. Any cars hifi can be improved. It's knowing how to. I'm a former semi pro car hifi installer starting in the 80's till early 90's. I' thinking of disconnecting the ML sub and installing my Alpine and running the ML sub signal to the Alpine and power from the battery in the boot. Thinking of where to get remote power from tho. Go to a car hifi shop and make some enquiries. You just may be suprised.

I take it you have the ML system? This is my 2nd is300h with ML and my 1st cars system was disappointing but this cars is outstanding. 2 ML systems exactly the same in the same car yet both so different.