route66

Best of luck with your new wheels! Obviously, the ES is positioned higher in the pecking order than the IS, so it should be better than the IS, but I'd still be interested in your views in areas such as: Newer Hybrid generation which has considerably less lag than IS. I've noticed this when driving a current-shape Corolla - have you also noticed this with the ES? Economy (I'd expect the ES to give up to 10 MPG more) Refinement - noise Ride Quality Ergonomics and infotainment usability Cabin Room Lookbackability - are you more inclined to sneek a quick look as you walk away after parking up, for example. I'm sure there are others ...

Yes, and apologies, according to the attached schedule, the transmission fluid for "severe" use is to check every 3 years and replace every 6. No mention of mileage though (at least in this schedule): Official IS service schedule.pdf

Wow! A bit more often than the recommended never 😉 I still do wonder why Lexus (& Toyota) have this recommendation. I'm guessing they know what they are doing (most reliable, etc, etc), but never just sounds wrong. According to your writeup on this, they don't even have a way of draining the oil completely - you replaced 2.3 litres from a total of 3.8 - so fresh oil will only make up about 2/3rds of the total and will therefore mix with the residual.

I thought you did the transmission fluid recently?

Then how does the power get from the motors to the wheels? There is an in wheel/hub motor technology but it's not used here. AWD EVs typically have 2 motors and therefore don't have propshafts, but they and 2WD EVs will have driveshafts.

Why not just have a quick look underneath for driveshafts ?

For most adults, there isn't enough head room to sit on the middle seat. And the "shoulders" that run along the body sides take many inches away from the width (although they do look nice 😉). And then as you say there is a large transmission tunnel. All this means it's really a 4+1, but a comfortable one for the 4.

As the OP, I felt duty-bound to post an update to this thread but shied away - didn't way to tempt fate and all that. Anyway, it's been about a month since the last activation. The week after it started happening, I locked the car with the key to avoid switching on the alarm and then started to just disable the intrusion sensor before locking up on the button. I've got increasingly confident in the last couple of weeks and just (double) lock it normally. Hopefully ColinBarber and other were correct in their predictions above and the critter is now dead. To paraphrase Scooby Doo: Thanks for getting involved until the mystery was solved 👍

My biggest worry with this would be the battery drain with the OBD reader that plugs into the car port. Do you remove this when not in use or is it not an issue?

Is this structural rather than just something to prevent things moving in to the passenger compartment? I ask because a "X" has gaps ... Having said that, with standardised production being the norm, I guess it would make no sense to have this any different.

I didn't know there was a separate Alarm sound. Mine sounds the horn and flashes the lights - the indicators at least, not sure about the headlights

He was helpful and very knowledgeable. Quite a rare thing today. An asset to this forum, he will be missed. May he RIP - condolences to his family.

It's reading 12.27V: ... which according to this diagram posted in the is300h battery problems thread: ... means my battery is ok (or at least ok'ish). I had a quick look around the car opened all the doors, boot and bonnet but didn't see any insects - or snakes! Because this has only recently started to happen - and then very intermittently - I guess I'll have to do some experimenting but I might have to wait for a month before I can conclude anything. Unless anyone thinks it could be the battery or some sort of voltage instability ...

Thanks John - I know you like references to the manual 😉 I'll post my findings on the battery later ...

Answering one of my own questions above - just saw this on page 550 of the manual: And while I'm here - Page 99 states how to disable the intrusion and tilt sensor:

Thanks for the replies. My scenario is that if I put the alarm back on, say, an hour after activation, it doesn't go off again. I think this means that if it was the battery voltage triggering the alarm, it would be some sort of temporary voltage instability. If that's even a thing? As mentioned, I've had no issues whatsoever with the 12V battery to date - and I've read lots of threads on here of people who have so I know this is thing. The manual does say this about how the battery can trigger the alarm: If I lock the car with the mechanical key (never done this before), will that leave the alarm off? I have a multimeter and will check the voltage from the boot battery terminals later today. If I don't come back on this thread, it means it was actually a 🐍 😲 ...

I have a 2014 IS300H and the Alarm has started to go off recently for no apparent reason. I've had the car for about 4 years with no issues to date. It has only happened about 4 times and all of these in the last month. Typically, it happens about an hour after parking up and this after using the car for anywhere from 30 minutes to 2.5 hours. As an interim measure, can the alarm be disabled (handbook only talks about disabling intrusion sensors - e.g. if leaving a dog in car)? Could this be a 12V battery issue? The car is on its original battery but this has shown no problems to date and the car has generally seen at least an hour of use weekly - despite Covid. Appreciate any help - it woke me at 4:30 this morning and I've been awake since searching for answers. 😮

The answer is WLTP - have a look here: The same car suddenly has two different CO2 values, why is this?

In fairness to Ian, he said: not that it hadn't been serviced at all. And that exact point is why he asked about updates which - typically - would only be applied by a Lexus dealership. I would go with the "if it ain't busted, don't fix it" methodology myself. The car is 7 years old and I guess most essential updates would have happened in the car's early life so you should be ok on that front. When I got mine (same age as yours) I did some investigation into updating the infotainment system (which includes satnav data) and then decided not to bother. My phone generally connects fine to the bluetooth and I have never used the Satnav (preferring my phone with its updated maps) so why bother?

The base SE model is the only one that doesn't have folding rear seats

I think Lexusmoon explained it already in his post above. The video you link to appears to be the one he originally refers to as well where he provides details on what parts to focus on.

From 200h's post above:

I think there have been some reports in the states about it affecting vehicles without navigation but not entirely sure as they have completely different units over there to us. I have Sat Nav - but don't have the Premium setup.

Does this problem affect the "standard" radio on my Executive (i.e. with the circular wheel, not the square joystick)?

I'm very interested in this thread because it looks like my IS300H is the same vintage as yours - Late 2014 - and I might therefore have the same problem if/when my 12V battery is replaced. 👍 I'm a bit confused about the mention of an SD card? I thought the standard setup didn't have an SD card - e.g. a USB stick is used to update the Sat Nav. Where is it located?