Maxz

I was hoping it would be smart enough to tell you what service your vehicle is due next and when. Instead all it has is a calendar you have to fill in manually, simply to remind you to call the dealership. Given most phones already have a calendar and reminder function, another essentially useless function!

LexusLink app service history bears no resemblance to a dealer printed service history and most of the detail other than Hybrid Health Check is missing. Very disappointing, not worth using. LexusLink: Dealer print out:

Grabbed the paperwork as below. Car is July 2015 registered and about to hit 20k miles. So if my maths is any good: 1) Air filter is due as Lexus didn’t replace in 2019 when they prepped the car for sale (guess technically it still had 2 months left). 2) Cabin filter (87139-30100) last replaced 2018, so now due. 3) OW20 AFE engine oil, from what I understand is an annual change regardless of miles driven. 4) Differential Oil - Wonder if OILD means it was changed (at 3 years on a “full 25k/2yr” service) or just level checked? Suspicious as it is under Other and not Parts section. Thanks again

Fabulous response Colin and really appreciate the timings/mileage deadlines. I have a full print of the service history from Lexus from when I bought the car, so will compare and then review and/or replace parts accordingly. Brake fluid (if over 2 years) and Hybrid Health check can wait until after lockdown, as have Toyota garages as an option if Lexus too busy (as they aren’t so prevalent).

At home getting bored of waiting to get my IS300h 20k service done. Does anyone have a full list of official Toyota service part numbers required? I assume pollen filter, air filter, oil filter, oil, rear diff oil at least. I assume Toyota OEM is cheaper than Lexus branded ones (Charcoal Pollen filter on Lexus eBay store is almost £80). Is the most cost effective way to buy direct from Toyota (eg local dealer), or are there cheaper trusted 3rd party stockists? I’ll defo change filters and possibly oil and diff oil if lockdown eases and I regain access to a pit. Aware a special tool required to change the oil filter, any other custom tools needed? Have seen the 60k service video on YouTube so have a good idea of the work involved. Then when lockdown is done just get a hybrid health check, brake fluid (if due) change and ask the dealer to check for and if required regrease any stuck caliper slide pins. thanks!

Sorry and to check, does the handbrake need to be off and car in Park, Neutral or Drive? Assume if handbrake off and Neutral need to chock block the other wheels?

Would love it if there was even a way to do this without removing the wheels but so far this is the least time intensive method I have seen - thanks! What if you had access to a pit, but from the above looks like you need access to both sides of the caliper to test this? Need to find time to check mine!

Nice one! F Sport defo the best looking version 🏎

Yeah I would ask / check service history or invoice. Unless you are super good with electrics and can check battery condition with a voltmeter. £13k is cheap/good as the f-sport I saw 60k miles last year at dealer was £20k (but dealer charges top end). Another tip, open both back doors check the original scuff stickers are still on the rear arch sills. If either side or both missing then it has had rear quarter damage repair. Saying that you would not know if major/minor shunt without looking underneath for misaligned/damaged suspensions arms (or new ones that show repair has been done). Hopefully both stickers still there and you don’t have to look any further. Other forum members also say listen for brake light grinding / rough noise at low speed which could indicate sticking brake pins. Which reminds me I need to check mine! If caught early pins just need removal and regrease but if left brake pads and discs will get ruined and need replacement too.

Check if it still has the original 12v ancillary battery in it as they seem to have a limited life if not maintained (I.e. topped up on trickle charger) regularly. Other posts out there by other members detailing costs on those if it might need replacing soon. I viewed a 60k black f sport at Lexus Sidcup and passed it up because 1) the salesperson has to jump start it due to knackered battery and 2) it had crash damage repair on the rear left hand quarter panel.

In my case Lexus Sidcup sourcing from Lexus Edgware. In fairness this is a reflection on the individual salesperson not Lexus as a whole, but just so people are aware you still need to pay attention if you are buying direct from Lexus. It is luck if you get one with integrity or one acting in self interest (i.e. doing anything possible to squeeze extra commissions out of a customer, even with morally questionable practices). Anyway, not to take the post off track given it was originally vehicle focused, just added given buying from Lexus versus an independent/private seller was mentioned. To add to point 5, maybe a pseudo effect, but once the 12v was fully charged, I noticed the hybrid charge indicator appearing more frequently and in turn electric drive kicking in a bit more given the 12v no longer needed to be charged. Average mpg went up a few decimals too. Would need a Lexus boffin to confirm if that is really true though! The 12v is defo a watch point, especially right now with cars sitting unused for extended periods.

From my experience: 1) If buying from Lexus dealership check service history if being offered Supagard, as I was sold it even though it had already been paid for and applied by first owner (it is sold as lasting for life of the car so does not need reapplying). Make sure you get the care satchel and guarantee cards to register too if opting for this. 2) If dealer sources you a car to your spec from another branch, check the price online, as my salesperson marked up the list price to slip in and pass off products as “free”/“discounts”. 3) check rear arches have scuff stickers on. If either side missing means a repair has been done to rear arches. 4) Pay for a laser wheel alignment check after purchase, my tracking and alignment were out on 3/4 wheels, dealer didn’t do prior to sale. Will help avoid excessive tyre wear. 5) trickle charge the 12v battery regularly as they are prone to failure and don’t seem to be charged so well by the vehicle (I assume the hybrid battery steals most of the charge from regeneration). First time I charged mine took 3 days to get back up to full charge. Otherwise great car to own and drive, can’t go wrong!

Is 300h on ctek for past week, no issues so far. It’s an older / basic model though. Cables run such that vehicle can be locked and alarm armed.

It is possible to switch off keyless entry on the vehicle permanently per post below on a 2015 is300h, not sure if 2017 model has the same firmware and therefore options? Please also see my recent post on trickle charging, whacked mine on as soon as lockdown started and even then (after regular use over winter) ctek charger still took 3 days of charge mode (orange LED) before it finally flipped over to conditioning (green LED) mode. These small 12v definitely need regular topping up to avoid them dying prematurely.

If anyone is able to advise what system I have and if it is current much appreciated? It includes navigation in a 15 plate Is300h advance. Tried the various codes on Google and nothing conclusive came back. Thanks.

If your IS is not getting as many miles due to the lockdown, don’t forget to keep the 12v ancillary topped up. Avoid any nasty surprises when you do happen to want to go out! If you lay the clips out as in the image, you can still latch the bonnet and keep the alarm armed 👍🏻

Great write up, I’ve been waiting for a post like this. Different reason though, one of my front speakers cuts in and out (probably loose connector). Question, what is the technique and/or tools best suited to prise the plastic speaker grilles off without snapping anything or leaving gouge marks in the dash or grilles? Nice one!

Lexus Sidcup hogging the limelight for all the wrong reasons again I see 🤣 Looks like they do have the ability to rectify issues 👏Glad to see they look after some of their customers, at the expense of others...

Good point, there are the inevitables that can’t be prevented. Was strange though the whole of the exhaust system was in very good condition bar this joint/gasket at the base of the cat, looking much more older/weathered than it’s years.

Have access to a pit so made sense to do. Did the same to a previous vehicle I owned when it got a corrosion warning at 10 years 85k. Needed more extensive rejuvenation as the rust had set in. Doing the IS at 5 years 18k miles, much less initial work plus stops any damaging levels of rust setting in or annual touch-ups being required. I’d say the two critical watch points are the front shocks and the joint/gasket at the base of the Catalytic converter. If either were to go (and obviously wouldn’t until much later in the life of the vehicle) big jobs to get repaired. Anyone with a new(er) vehicle can obviously avoid tinkering altogether by occasional jet washing of inner wheel arches, wheels and underside during winter months to keep the salt and grime off those vital parts.

Hey red-lex, love the grill upgrade, would love to do the same with mine but not as brave as you! Have you had a go at the speakers? Not sure if your issue is the same as mine, but I seem to have a speaker at the front that kicks in and out at random. Very annoying as the sound “shifts” across the car. I’m assuming a loose connection but have not dared to try and pry up the speaker covers just yet to check...

Anyone who believes prevention is better than cure, some watch points and suggested maintenance points for exhaust, subframes, bushes etc. Only worth the work for anyone planning on running their car for the long term. As the exhaust and cat run along the nearside, these also get additional exposure to salt and other grime from gutters as due road camber, it all flows to the left. Process: Wash all rusted or salt/ grime covered subframe, exhaust, pipe work with ph neutral car shampoo. Rinse with clean water and leave to dry. Use sandpaper and wire brushes to take off all loose rust down to the clean metal, usual Kurust or similar for any thick bits. Spray treated exhaust parts and joints with high temperature paint only. Undercoat and gloss black spray subframe parts. Lightly slicone spray bushes, pipework and exhaust hangers (do not overdo it and mop up any excess near exhaust as potentially flammable in high quantities). This slows down the ageing process keeping rubbers flexible and less chance of cracking. Listed in priority order (of what was showing most corrosion): 1) Exhaust gasket/joint at Cat. 2) Subframe just above exhausts (that holds the differential in place. 3) Hubs that are on the diff (that the inner boots are clamped to). 4) Base of the front shock absorbers. 5) The brackets holding up the rear exhaust boxes. 6) The differential itself and driveshafts (not really a concern as the block and driveshafts so thick would never rust through) 7) various other weld points as shown below It’s a mucky job but either a one time or every 5 years or so task to keep the MOT warnings at bay, have fun! Before and after pics below, should be clear which is which. Best to catch it whilst it is still surface rust 🙂

Cat now marked and registered just for good measure, only the very end of it is visible under the vehicle. Per this and the “Hybrid Badge Removal” post, Cat on an IS is essentially impossible to remove with only underside access to the vehicle. Most of it sits up in the engine bay, with the top half securely bolted to the manifold under the bonnet.

Yup overflow car parks are good for space but bad for Cat theft. Per my earlier post, the theft at Foots Cray Tesco was around the back in the “overflow” section of the car park.

It’s either fabulous or fortunate design on the part of Lexus/Toyota and a touch for IS owners. I have still even Catloc marked and registered mine (not that that is effective really anyway if the metal were to be scrapped). The Cat location is a good selling point for the car too in the current climate of Cat thievery.