Maxz

Amir, best of luck, stock wire locations as below. See where you get and worst case if still no luck maybe I can plot the wiring too between the plugs. The seller should be able just to move the colour blocks around on the image using Mspaint to show where for RHD they should go (to fold on one click and also not fold whilst driving).

1, 2 and 3 done, will do 4 and 5 tomorrow, too tedious to do in one go! 🤪 NOTE: diagrams are as per supplied instructions for plug 4 from the seller, from the rear of the plug as the wires go in, not from the pins side.

Will try and do a pin diagram too tomorrow...

Mine is RHD too. Will install it leaving white wire (ACC+) as is, if I have the folding issue whilst driving will try and work where to move the white to. Thanks again for all the guidance.

Sorry misread: ”The white wire is for acc+ if your having problems with the mirrors closing while the car is on this wire will require moving. ” So when you state “moving” is that removing or you mean moving to a different pin?

Thanks Shada. The photo of the plug in the door with the scruffy writing was supplied by the seller, so chances are could well be LHD instead of RHD. I’ll adjust mine to align pink to red before I install (and find the spare time to do so!). The acc+ I’ll only cut if I have unexpected folding issues when driving. Appreciate all the help! Amir let us know how you get on if you adjust too.

Hi Amir, confirmed same Alibaba link and seller used. Maybe Shada can shed some light. If more/better photos needed of the plugs and cables let me know, happy to provide. Then future forum (RHD) members can buy, cable mod and have this work as intended all in one go. I’ll try and produce a full guide once any cable mods are confirmed, including the door card removal (although from what I see an easy process anyway).

Thanks Shada, Amir please post too if your layout is different to the one I received:

So mine arrived yesterday, but my cable layout is different from the images. But going on what the seller is showing, they seem to be saying that the top LH two cables have the unlock and lock signals on a UK car (for the plug shape shown). If this is right on my cable I should move the pink next to the orange to align with the other plug, or is the seller saying the pink and orange should not be on the lock/unlock pins? This is just my guess so obviously don’t necessarily risk trying this and damaging your car please! Maybe pass to the seller first see if they agree or an electrical expert on the forum could confirm?

Hi, Got one of these arriving soon. Has anyone got specific details on the one versus two button press modification required to the cable (purple wire mentioned previously). Many Thanks. The seller is pretty sparse on the details in this respect:

Interesting one, so fading left and right, didn’t isolate any issues. However, what it does seem to indirectly identify, is that it must be the centre speaker that is intermittent...

Good shout Colin, will check if my multimedia/nav version has those options, many Thanks!

Is anyone aware if Techstream can or does run a diagnostic on the audio/navigation system (maybe as part of the health check scan)? One of my front speakers has an intermittent connection issue. Rather than spend time prying the trim off both to work out which one it is, hoping Techstream might be able to flag which one, so can focus my attention accordingly. Many Thanks

Not sure about 2018 onwards but for a 2014 the sidelights are separate from the DRL, so Techstream has the disable option. Anyone nervous about a DIY adjustment of settings, you can pay the dealer to do instead.

Not a solution as such, but if you just want “symmetry” and not spending £250 to replace + labour costs, just use Techstream (from £25 a cable) or have a garage/dealer switch off the daytime lights altogether.

Depending on your spec option / year the menus might look different but should be the same/similar path to switch off the car accepting the smart entry signal from the fob. Once off buttons to open doors and boot, hover key over start button then press after beep to start. Screenshots on the original post linked below:

And one last question. Other than increasing the indicator signal volume, has anyone found anything else useful to change? Some of the settings/descriptions are not completely clear on what they update. Thanks.

Europe does also work after all, if Model AVE30 is selected. Also note that in order to customise settings in an IS300h with a 1.4.1 firmware M-VCI cable, these settings are only available on older versions of Techstream, namely 10.30.029. In my case I was then able to increase the volume of the indicators. As with other members previous posts, the factory set volume is very low (especially if you like the radio loud!) and is not adjustable from the normal user menu.

Thanks for pointing out, didn’t read it carefully enough first time. Given it’s a 15 plate will take a look at my V5 to work out if I need to select the first or second option category.

For the lesser adventurous out there, Lexus dealership removed and re-greased all my slide pins for £100 in 2019. Might cost a bit more now post pandemic/Brexit but still fairly reasonable given the effort otherwise. Plan to have them do this every 2-3 years to be on the safe side. 26k 2014 Is330h, still 9mm on all pads at service last month.

Continuing my recent habit of adding to historic but still relevant posts... So anyone having issues finding the IS300h on Techstream under Europe (or North America), the trick is to adjust the Area Selection to "Japan". The IS300h is then available to select. However, has anyone got a definitive answer on what the 4 Option Codes each stand for? Other setup items worthy of note: 1) Make sure you install and select the correct FTDI driver. This one for Win 7 onwards: https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/CDM212364_Setup.zip This one for XP: https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20824_Setup.exe 2) In Device manager ensure the Ports (COM & LPT) are set as COM5, otherwise adjust accordingly. 3) If using an XHorse or Clone cable, Copy C:\Program Files (x86)\XHorse Electronics\MVCI Driver for TOYOTA TIS\MVCI32.dll to C:\MVCI32.dll. Also in Techstream go to Setup | VIM Select menu and select the ”XHorse — MVCI”

Resurrecting an old post but just wanted to say thanks to Rayanns for the image above, saved me a few quid in the short term. This only really applies to all you sub 10k low mileage drivers.... Had a major service last year but because my vehicle had hit 6 years old, the Lexus service systems assume 10k miles per year, so the service booking teams and dealer pushed for the 60k major this year, which includes spark plugs. However, given my vehicle is only on 26k miles, it has not actually reached the point where the spark plugs require a change, as correctly pointed out by Rayaans, even Lexus/Toyota have these on a mileage only service schedule, not mileage/age based like oils and filters. Given Lexus has dropped the Essential Care service packages, if you wish to maintain the vehicle to the manufacturer's published service schedule above in a cost effective manner, some manual intervention is required to keep Lexus themselves "on track". It means next year I will again need to turn down the 60k, requesting a standard major, specifically asking they renew the diff oil (last changed 2018 so at 30k miles/4 years will be due) plus brake fluid (changed 2019, due every 2 years). This ensures you are meeting all published service schedule requirements should you have any warranty claims, without going over the top and having spark plugs that are only half way through their service life thrown out.

If like me you got fed up with faraday pouches, simply switch of the smart entry in the car settings. Just means you have to use the buttons on the fob instead. I personally find it more convenient than using pouches which are not 100% effective, especially as they wear. There is a previous post where photos were posted of the settings menus.

The secondary cat also sits slightly raised, very much near the centre of the vehicle meaning you’d need to jack it up quite high to get a reciprocating saw all the way through the pipe. In addition it is only 360mm in circumference, which is pretty small (I.e. less precious metals inside) compared to most catalytic convertors. Also, if you want to be a bit “extra”, you can use existing mounting points on the rad bulkhead and bumper reinforcement to add stainless steel mesh in front of the horns to frustrate, deter or at least slow down the cutting of the horn cables (which they do to silence the tilt alarm).

Hi Linas. It is possible those are just stories, as attacking a vehicle would draw attention + police, these guys want in and out as quick as possible. Another piece of information, when it is safe to do so, not engaging the handbrake when parking on flat surfaces only can compromise the stability of a trolley jack, as there is always some movement in the parking pawl, especially in some CVT’s. However, always engage the handbrake if on any incline as it is not good to put the transmission under stress normally.