LenT

Why not Pirelli indeed. I’ve had them and they were excellent. In fact I once had a business day at the UK factory because they made Esso brand tyres on the same production line. Not so convinced about BridgeStone. I finally made my choice by comparing as many comparative tyre reviews as I could find. But that was nearly two years ago, technology moves on and in any case my priorities may not be the same as other drivers.

Know nothing about them apart from what Uniroyal has published. Any comparative tyre tests yet? The tread certainly looks the business and, as you already know, Uniroyal/Continental is a high quality brand. I should think it’s a close run choice between them, the Goodyears and Michelin CrossClimates. If you can find a dealer who sells all three - they’ll probably recommend the one they make the most profit on.

This is another comment that doesn’t answer your questions, but just to ask if you’ve had any experience of detailing before? I had my first experience recently when a local guy spent 4+ days on my IS250 using Modesta products - and I was delighted with the results. I felt it was money well spent and provided a ceramic coating that should last from 8 - 10 years. Yesterday I gave it the first wash to remove accumulated road muck and was really impressed at how easily dirt was removed and the shine restored, using the recommended Aenso shampoos. And of course the two bucket method with washing mitt and drying towel! Yes, no more the easy luxury of the car wash! Kamikazi appears to have a good rep and I’m sure you’ll be very satisfied.

Definitely the wisest course, by the sound of it. But not wasted time. It’s really valuable experience in your search for a good ‘un. Better luck with the next one.

Yes, I wonder if there’s a market for barely used e-tech alloy wheel repair kits? To be fair, it did enable me to reprofile the rim but the colour mismatch was possibly even more obvious than the original damage. Hence the attraction of the Alloygators. Still, you’re better off than I am as I have no other projects. We have a small Suzuki SX4 4x4, but unlike the Lexus alloys with their tendency to break out in a rash at the first sniff of a kerb, the Suzuki has proper ‘who-are-you-looking-at’ steel wheels which are unmarked despite engaging in unarmed combat with local kerbs, potholes and ploughed fields.

I hope that I didn't imply that you had! I certainly wouldn't claim it. However, the OP's pictures do illustrate exactly the common problem for which they do seem to be very effective. Actually the Company states that they can be reused, as when fitting new tyres, for example, if they haven't sustained heavy impact. That would be a matter of personal choice and one's definition of 'heavy'. I've also come across a fitting operation that suggests replacing them every two years anyway. But I would have thought a mileage basis would be more appropriate than time. But as far as cost goes, my set were fitted on 18" wheels for £120 exactly two years ago. Before that, Mr ChipsAway had charged me £90 per wheel, inc. VAT, and did an excellent job - on both wheels!

I can certainly support the choice of the Goodyears. The 18” wheels of my IS250 also required two different sizes. I was looking for good all-season performance - especially in the wet. And they certainly provide that. Before buying them I did check the various tyre testing websites and these Goodyear Asymmetric 5s always came out very well. They’re certainly far quieter and more comfortable than the original tyres.

I did treat myself to a home repair kit by e-tech, as featured in the ChipsAway site from, I believe, Amazon. It sorted out the profile repair well enough, but I couldn’t match the colour. It was too bright a silver. I even tried, unsuccessfully, to add some black!

A little more than JUST a paint job, surely? The surface looks damaged and will surely need rubbing down and blending in before it can be repainted – two different coats, remember. And it would have to be done carefully to avoid any change in the rim profile – depending on how concerned the owner is to remove all traces of the encounter. I suspect that two wheels done to that standard will cost more than fitting a set of Alloygators – which would have prevented that damage in the first place. I hasten to add that I think all the concerns expressed about this product are perfectly valid. But I didn’t choose to fit them on a whim. Like many things in Life, it’s a matter of assessing reward v risk. While the scenario that Linas posits is possible, is it a probable risk? How does it compare, for example, with the inherent risk of ‘travelling at motorway speeds of 70MPH+’ when statistically your chances of being involved in an accident are greatly diminished at 60mph, or 50mph? How often do you consider the risk of a tyre blow out? It’s certainly possible, because it happened to friends of ours in their newish BMW. But we don’t consider it very probable, do we? This product has now been sold in over 50 countries for more than a decade. I’ve only come across a handful of claims that rims have separated from wheels. On examination these often turn out to be DIY jobs or fitting to unsuitable alloys. Frankly, an impact that might render the Alloygator likely to leave the rim would probably also leave the wheel unusable in the first place. It’s also worth mentioning that this product has been approved by testing at MIRA and by the German TUV organisation. Another claim is that water and grit gets under the plastic and damages the alloy surface. Well apart from raising the question of whether the surface was already damaged and the Alloygator used to conceal that fact, this is by definition cosmetic surface damage and very easily rectified. Or even hidden under a new Alloygator! And it’s surely preferable to having to pay for repairs to seriously damaged alloy rims. From personal experience I can confirm that everyday scuffing, as illustrated by the OP, is not going to remove an Alloygator. That’s because this is a rubbing action when a moving wheel contacts a vertical surface, such as a kerb. Lifting the Alloygator away from the rim requires a different impact, such as a vertical force applied to the side of the plastic – as when the wheel drops off a kerb and the edge of it hits the side face of the plastic rim. But again this is very obvious damage. Deflating the tyre and the use of a soft faced mallet is generally enough to replace the Alloygator back on the rim. I see that another criticism is that ‘they look awful once they’ve contacted the kerb’. Well, that’s one reason why I chose black – and scuffs on the plastic can be smoothed out anyway. And remember, every scuff represents more serious alloy rim damage that has been prevented. And as the OPs pics clearly demonstrate, that will surely look worse! To put the choice of ‘to fit or not to fit’ another way: Some people are refusing the Covid-19 vaccines on the grounds that they may have side effects. Well, in some people they do. But not having the vaccine can have even more unpleasant side effects. As it happens, I don't ever remember curbing a wheel until I got the Lexus and had my first experience of low profile tyres and alloys. And if you can be sure that you'll never do it then save your money - you'll never need any rim protection. So as my folks used to say ‘you pays yer money and you makes yer choice!’. PS: I realise this has become a long post. My apologies!

I chose black, Mike, as I wanted the plastic to match the tyre so that it didn’t stand out. And I thought any further scuffs would be less obvious. But you can go for a colour and make a style statement of them! I’ll try to attach a recent picture showing the wheels undergoing a protective coating treatment which does show the Alloygators in situ. I’d also point out that the Goodyears already have moulded on what Goodyear describe as a rim protector. But you can clearly see that the Alloygator projects even further out than the tyre itself, so further protecting the tyre.

I had very similar rim damage on my IS250 alloys, which appear to be a similar colour. I contacted our local ChipsAway operator who did a marvellous job. There was no trace of the repair and the colour match was perfect. To prove it wasn’t a fluke, he repeated it on another wheel when I scuffed it again! No doubt, some operators may be less skilled than others and you may not even have one near you. But another advantage is that it’s a mobile service that comes to you. Incidentally, realising this could become an expensive habit, I had a set of Alloygator Rim Protectors fitted and rim damage is now highly unlikely to be a problem.

You can get either get a battery pack to provide an independent supply or a regulator that will provide power with the ignition off and ensure that the current drain doesn’t exceed a preset level. This enables the camera to operate when the vehicle is parked and thus able to record activity that occurs around the car, such as break-ins, keying as well as impacts. I acquired my Lexus as a result of an HGV writing off my Accord on the M25. The other driver’s insurance was dragging out settlement until I supplied the camera footage, when they paid out in full within a couple of days. I can’t think of any reasons for NOT having one!

It could refer to the MOT requirements regarding the amount and variety of various fluids that appear under the car with the engine idling. These would exclude any additional contributions from the Tester as suggested by Phil earlier.

I think you may have answered your own question. Looking at the obvious rust, I wouldn’t have described it as being in good condition. Get it up on a hoist and I suspect that more horrors will be revealed. I also agree with other comments that it’s clearly been maintained on a shoestring and after all it’s been ignored for two years anyway. I think it might well be a project for an experienced renovator, but if you’re not mechanically adept, I’d walk away. Best advice would be to buy from a recognised dealer, or at least get a mechanic’s inspection if dealing privately.

As has already been mentioned, budget will possibly influence your choice. So you may not like my first observation: personally I would never mix brands/types on different axles. Mixing tread patterns and compound mixes is creating a potential for performance differences that may well catch you out one day. So that means buying four tyres, not two. I have gone for the new offerings in all-season tyres. I have Goodyear Asymmetric 5s on the Lexus, which have proved to be a quiet tyre with a comfortable ride and excellent wet weather performance. I was originally going for Michelin CrossClimates, which they do for 17” rims. Unfortunately my Lexus has 18” rims and two different tyre sizes fore and aft - one of which Michelin don’t do. However, I have Michelin CC on our 4 wheel drive Suzuki and they too are excellent in the wet and give a comfortable ride. Previous experience with Michelins is that I get very good mileage out of them. I had them on a Toyota MR2 and had just put on the third set after 90K miles. I suggest you check out the tyre reviews and tests at sites such as autoexpress and tyrereviews.

Very interesting, Richard, regarding captured grime. But not a problem I’ve personally experienced or heard of before. Indeed, unless an Alloygator is somehow physically ripped off, I doubt I will ever see a rim again! And they are, after all, the most vulnerable part of a wheel. As for being super careful when parking, well who can disagree with that! My scuff action was mainly on the move, typically having to take evasive action when encountering an oil tanker on a bend in a country lane in the snow that covered a small kerb! And if it’s not a kerb it’s a pothole. The guy who did my recent car detailing (described elsewhere) was on his third alloy wheel claim with the Local Authority as a result of damage caused by an unreported pothole. It seems to me that in the unremitting battle between Me V Kerb, I have to win every time. For Kerb, just the once will do!

Excellent, Robert. They replaced the original Yokohamas, (I think they were) and even allowing for the firmer ride associated with low profile 18” alloy wheels, provided a significantly smoother and quieter performance. While I might admit to a driving style best described as “brisk”, I certainly don’t “explore the limits of the performance envelope”. Nevertheless I think that the wet weather handling in particular is far more reassuring than with the OE tyres. They have had very good reviews in the tyre specialist magazines, too, as an all-weather choice. I’m not sure that Dunlops are the force they once were. Can’t even remember when I last had them. For the last few decades (!) I can only recall buying Goodyear, Michelin CrossClimates, Michelin X and Pirelli.

Just to add that the tyres have what Goodyear regard as a rim protector profile moulded on to the tyre anyway. You can clearly see how much further the Alloygator projects beyond the tyre profile.

Taking your second question first: Yes. Scuffs on the plastic rim protector are not very noticeable and can be smoothed away. But would have been irritatingly obvious on an alloy rim. And the rim protector is easily replaced anyway. Fitted to a new wheel it provides instant protection. In my experience, fitting one Alloygator was cheaper than having one scuffed rim repaired. Fitting. As it happened I was going to have a new set of Goodyear Asymmetric 5s fitted by a tyre outfit I’d used before - and saw they were Agents for Alloygator. So a deal was struck! Is it a DIY job? Well, the plastic rim needs a special tool to cut it, which shapes the end and punches a retaining hole for the small jointing piece. But that may be available from Alloygator, along with the other components. Otherwise you need a soft-faced mallet and a tyre inflator. They are best fitted with the wheel off the car. I notice there a plenty of videos around on how it’s done. You can also use them as a fashion statement! I chose black to look like part of the tyre, but they come in a range of colours. Frankly I can’t find a good reason for NOT fitting them. To reflect on an early comment, I would suggest they are a no-brainer. 😊 PS. Had car detailed recently, which included wheel treatment. I think you can see the Rim Protector on the wheels.

Kerbing the near side rims was one of the first things I did with my IS250! Mind you, it was my first experience of low profile alloys and our narrow country lanes were under snow, hiding the kerbs anyway. Our local ChipsAway guy did a very impressive repair job but I quickly realised this could become an expensive habit. Then I discovered Alloygator Rim Protectors. Since then I merely feel reassured that any new scuff has saved me at least £60 a rim In fact it’s an investment that has already been handsomely repaid.

It is the one disappointing feature of my IS250. In fact I use the Garmin sat/nav that I brought over from my previous car. So I get quarterly free updates and a system that doesn’t demand a manual of hundreds of pages in order to get you where you want to go. Quite why Lexus will buy in a superior audio system but remain committed to such an inferior sat/nav is a mystery.

I would agree with all of that. I think you have to be a fully paid up masochist to own a manual for driving mainly in London. Or any major city, come to that. But the car is what it is and no doubt your budget determines what you can buy, it’s age and condition. Are you a member of one of the motoring organisations? Or know any good mechanics? See if you can get the car independently inspected. If the owner resists, there’s a reason...so probably best to walk away. Knowing when to walk away from a deal is one of the great lessons in Life! Others have already advised as to the reliability of an IS250 of that age. I can’t comment on that. In the end, if it’s a sound car and one that you can comfortably afford, then I think the pleasure you will get from owning it will outweigh such matters as the manual/auto debate.

As a point of information- and to lighten the mood for a moment - it wasn’t Carroll Shelby who drove an AC Cobra up the M1 early one morning. I was engaged on a project with AC Cars and met the chap who did. At the time it was common practice for Manufacturers, dealers, tuners and the like, to use the M1 in the early hours for test runs. In those days and at those hours, there was not very much on it. And of course it was a lot cheaper than hiring a test track! Apparently this driver mentioned his test run to a local reporter while discussing the Cobra, who then mentioned it some time later in a story about AC Cars, which was later spotted by a journalist on the National Press on a quiet news day, which was then exploited by an MP who’d been trying to introduce a National speed limit! Mind you, it would have happened in the UK sooner or later as motorway traffic grew.

It would worry anyone in the UK. The MOT requirements now include the emission of black smoke from diesel exhausts and any signs of tampering or removal of the DPF as immediate fails.

Drat! But as I mentioned, that was the same case with me as far as the CCs were concerned. In my case Lexus MK, to my surprise, came up with vey good quote for the Goodyears. And it was only by chance that I called them. However a local tyre supplier I’d used before also came up with a good price and in addition they were agents for the Alloygator Rim Protectors. So a deal was done and it’s a combination I’ve been very satisfied with. Every little scuff on an Alloygator just makes me think of the alloy rim repair I’ve just saved! PS. I have no connection with Alloygator!!!