IS300FSPORT

Ordered the Carista ODB2 Device from Amazon £25 using a youtubers discount code 'NOTAGURU25' worked out as £18.75 It has one month free trial subject to cancelling so you dont get charged monthly fee. Unlocked a few features: - Remote press windows up/down - Blinker sound for indicatorss - Seat belt chime off - Walk home lights extended from 30 seconds-90 Etc Also done the diagnostic check no errors, handy piece of kit. I recommend it im sure others have used it before on this forum. CARISTA OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter and App: Diagnostics, Customizations, Service Procedures and Live Data for your VW, Audi, SEAT, Skoda, Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini https://amzn.eu/d/hzJAAEh

You probably have a mix of new coolant they topped up after changing the water pump, along with the coolant that was in the system already i.e stored in the Reservoir. Regardless when they take the waterpump off you would think at least 70% of the coolant will drain out from the engine block. In theory you should be ok for another few years. I doubt they would have done a flush & replace. New water pump seals should be ok for a couple of years so nothing to worry about. I believe the Inverter coolant & the radiator and independent anyway but its wise to change out around the 10 year age or 100k which ever comes first regardless of the mileage its done. Assuming you will still have the car

Thats v interesting at 23k its clear that its not wear & tear i.e play on the propelors etc. More likely to be the coolant turning acidic with age eating the seals. This could well explain why the carcarenut recommends changing out the coolant every 5 years.

Out of interest what kind of mileage has your car done?

Any more info this pls im interested. Does it change appeareance? & does it have the speed camera alerts? Any pics etc

Your more likely to lose them than breaking them, just remember when you unplug the cooling fan connector to remove it from the car make sure you plug it back in unless you want a brown pants moment. (Error messages) The Rest is easy! "Whats the matter with you! There is no tomorrow!"

Its a 1 hour job if that.. & the hardest part is removing the plastic push clips for the trim panels. 26k is low but whats the age of the car? I'd give it a once over & then forget about it for a couple of years. Although it will warn you cooling performance is low if it was blocked anyway. Heres one from a Prius guessing its had hard life with mega miles.

2 years in since I last cleaned the Hybrid filter/mesh & cooling fan back in 2021 done less than 10k it was very lightly covered in dust pictures wouldnt really pick it up. Although this time round I removed the vent panel located next to the rear right seat to see if any dust or dirt built up & it was pretty clean safe to say it doesn't need attention for at least 3-5 years unless you regularly travel with pets or have a dusty environment. No tools required just make sure your reseat the rubber seal properly around the frame otherwise you risk water coming in. On Youtube seen a couple of videos people are fitting filter screens to the vent to aid better filtering. Watch from 3:20 onwards Good to get your thoughts if its worth finding one compatible with the IS300H?

I tried looking for it a year back, It is above the transmission oil pan. & its an absolute bugger to get to I'd say its nearly impossible without a ramp. Maybe easier to trace the pipe from inside the car will be interior strip down. Recently experienced a smelly air con first 2-3 seconds at start up. I left mine on always to fresh air rather than recirculate smell seems to have disappeared. Remove cabin filter air con on spray Dettol disinfectant spray into the vents under the wiper blast 2-3 shots in 10 second intervals let it run 5-10 mins windows down & fit new cabin filter. No smell now think it needs doing annually. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dettol-Crisp-Linen-Disinfectant-Spray/dp/B084R1XD3T/ref=asc_df_B084R1XD3T/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=501251247783&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3185796776093048172&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046656&hvtargid=pla-947060589056&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Similar setup to the IS350

Why not? Its not far from OEM F Sport alloys.

Enjoy ... as its automatic when you put it in P on flat ground its safe or sufficient. I dont bother using footbrake/handbrake unless i'm on an incline to avoid weight of the car straining the gearbox Parking pin. As for locking it you can keep your key in a pouch it stops signal going out if opportunists try to take it by picking up the key signal from your front door. Alternatively there is a method after you lock it keep hold of the lock button & press the unlock button twice. Try opening it without pressing the unlock button it wont do as it disables smart entry until you unlock it again by pressing unlock. Or another option to disable smart entry is via the car menu. Check out this video

F Sport all day! The pot holes are always going to be a problem, with any car really where possible just go slow on rough roads. Unless your in a BIG SUV on air suspension you cant get away from it. The IS300H in F Sport trim has very balanced handling, yes ok tyres cost a bit more but it pays it self off in handling & comestically looks so much better IMO + get the odd compliment. It looks more expensive than it is coming upto 10 years Lexus were well ahead of their time with the exterior design. Without showing off now others can post their Non- Fsport & you will see where im coming from.

Sorry trying to understand it has parking sensors or it doesnt? For fitting aftermarket sensors you have to drill the bumpers to insert the sensors & wiring you just tap into the reverse bulb light circuit/wiring. Alternatively you dont need sensors if reverse parking camera is fitted it will do the same job (ok in the rain it can get tricky if covered) As for your question is it a reasonable buy thats a tough one to answer without any further info pictures, evidence of service history HPI clear etc. Overall mechanically the IS300H has proved to be reliable. Having owned mine for 2-3 years can safely say very robust cars. Niggles like squeaking brakes due to lack of use or corrosion a good strip down & regrease the pins usually sorts this out, hybrid filter fan & filter need servicing note Lexus do not do that in the Hybrid health check, dying 12v batteries simply due to lack of use, reports of inner tyre wear, soft paint chipping bodywork, smelly air con etc not necesarily deemed as major faults just lack of maintenance is what contributes to some of this which does not help.

Welcome & Lexus use old tried & tested tech nothing fancy unless your buying the later models that will come with the upgraded media. The IS is no longer sold in the UK. 2017 is now around 6 year old at the time of release it wasnt great but it wasnt deemed as an ancient. Work around is get a mini USB and put your music on there or upgrade it at a cost though a few people have done it. Dont let this be a show stopper for you because as an overall package its fantastic choice.

Is the noise coming when you turn the steering wheel or when you go over a bump? Difficult to diagnose noise from a video on the internet. Start with the basics: - shock absorbers/strut mounts - Drop links - Lower control / upper control arm including ball joints - Steering rack Look for anything loose that may be rubbing in the engine bay Try making the noise happen when stationary.

Where are you located?

Iv just stuck with Autoglym leather cleaner & the balm bottle do a treatment every 6 months or so. & keep it out of the sun where possible. My driveway is shaded, + maybe having tinted rear windows has helped deflect heat dont know the exact science behind it though.

The above are the genuine rubber mats but have to admit they are very thin/light, I was quite dissapointed when they were delivered I expected them to be made of a thicker rubber. 2 years in though they seem alright to be fair, fantastic in winter, although I do prefer the carpet mats they feel alot more comfortable just a bugger to keep clean. If your after a set of rubber mats just buy them from Costco Michellin mats look to be good quality & can be cut to size the ribs on them can be tailor fit. Cost approx £27. If I recall correctly think I paid around £80 for the mats from Lexuspartsdirect. The advantage is being OEM they fit perfectly, at a cost though 🫤

Still looking fresh at 53k or 8 years

I have removed the battery at least 2-3x. Initially when I bought the car I was removing the 12v battery as a pre-caution to charge it outside the car every other month, I wasnt using it frequently due to the (lock down). Stating the obvious with thr *Ignition off, remove negative cable first, with the radio off. Never lost the screen or experienced any issues. (Thankfully) I have since replaced the 12v battery & only charge it every other month whilst the terminals are still connected using Noco Genius5 it has built in spark protection. For info Mine is a 2015 model. Im sure the majority who have attempted a DIY replacement will know what they are doing switching out the battery its just 2 terminals but could there be a user error in all this connecting wrong terminals? Highly doubt it... To add a code is not required after a change for the radio so you dont need a constant 12v supply maybe that creates a higher risk of a power surge blowing the radio.

Re Smelly AC this may help, put your windows down & dont sit in the car whilst doing this unless you want to get high. Run the air con & on the settings select outdoor air with the engine running spray this through the vents from outside the car (vents are below the wipers) Got the Idea from Scottykilmer youtube channel. Its a anti-bacterial spray. Dettol disinfectant spray in 20 seconds spray intervals 2-3x. I did it initially & then the next day it seems to make the smell dissapear for about 12 months. For info The AC drain pipe is above the gearbox very difficult to access that may be blocked. Also try replacing your pollen cabin filter its 5 min job inside the glove box passenger side. https://groceries.asda.com/product/antibacterial-cleaning-spray-wipes/dettol-all-in-one-disinfectant-spray-crisp-linen/1000325879535?&cmpid=ppc-_-ghs-_--_-google-_--_-dskwid-_dm&s_kwcid=AL!11432!3!!!!x!!&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8s23vt_h_wIVEIBQBh2CjADhEAQYBCABEgIFQfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You will struggle to find independent garages specialised for Toyota/Lexus simply because they dont really go wrong theres no market for them. Its the typical wear & tear items that are usually due servicing, tyres,brakes, waterpumps, engines with cambelt. Unlike the German cars VW, Audis, VW Specialist that are setup to support with tuning & servicing etc Most garages can service these cars, nothing complex at all unless your doing anything major to the HYBRID system. Im not a mechanic by any means but servicing Toyota/Lexus has been one of the easiest cars to work or live with the only time it sees a garage is for an MOT If your good at DIY & Have the space invest in a couple of ramps/axle stands & tools & you will enjoy working on these cars look on youtube for how to guidances.

Impressive motors cant really fault them is why im Curious to understand if there are any common issues if any. re the point of 2 yearly oil changes I get it but I dont think it will do your engine good though, especially if its only being used on short journeys. (Its a very debatable subject). As the saying goes "Oil is cheap engines are not!" According to Manufacturers recommendation its 12 months or 10k which ever comes first. The heat up cycles/condensation is what deteriorates the oil loosing its effectivness or properties. Dont go by the colour of the oil either for example diesel engine oil turns dark within 500 miles but is still good, petrol engines run cleaner but colour is not an indicator. Watch carcarenut channel on youtube he is a Toyota/Lexus master tech/guru & swears by 5k oil changes for long term reliability to reduce oil burning as the mileage builds up if you plan on owning the car a long time.

The Car is fast approaching 10 Years. What are the common MOT failures on the IS300H? Do any of you bother with pre-checks before taking it in for the test to reduce failure or advisories, appreciate preventative maintenance is the key but is there anything that comes up regular? Pre-check list I do before taking it in if it helps anybody: - Windscreen wipers & top up fluid - Check condition of brake disc & pads if obvious (lip on disc/rust & low brake pads) replace - Handbrake test & adjust brake shoes as necessary - Headlights, brake light bulbs & indicators - Set correct Tyre pressure varies on different models if I recall the F Sport is around (36PSI) & tyre wear ideally more than 3mm or legally >1.6mm. Look out for cracked tyres/damaged sidewalls. - No warning lights i.e check engine light/tyre pressure warning - Clean brake pipes/fuel lines to prevent corrosion usually after winter - Suspension test any obvious knocks or leaking shock absorbers/broken springs/control arms drop links/ball joints/steering rack play/rough wheel bearings- replace as necessary. Generally worn bushes or play in the wheels can be detected by using a pry bar under each wheel and checking for freeplay and spinning the wheel listening for any noises etc - Service before or after Test (address any oil leaks etc) - Seat belt condition & test buckle - Registration plate clear to read & not loose - Check Mirror security & no cracks + windscreen for cracks/chips - Inspect General underbody for corrosion and bodywork no loose panels - Presenting a clean washed & *vac car leaves the impression you look after the car im sure an MOT tester will have a few stories to tell. Appreciate this is not the comprehensive list but every little helps if you have a driveway & accesss to ramps/axle stands your not in for a shock or big bills when it comes MOT time. & of course a friendly MOT tester helps. In the UK council MOT testers are recommended as they are only there to do the Test, they dont have interest in repairs as they dont undertake corrective work no financial gain in comparison to certain dealerships/garages that will deem anything as a defect to bring in revenue. Good to hear your thoughts.... For reference the official check list. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-inspection-checklist-vt-29

I had a similar issue many years ago although this may sound bizarre/unbelievable the suspension just needed a reset. Lift both wheels of the ground at the same time same axle. - Front jackup on Subframe - Rear on the differential Let it sit with the wheels of the ground for couple of minutes to realign & drop it down slowly. I genuinely dont know how this worked but it did the trick for me the clunk went away, start with the basics. Failing that the noise could be anything, from something in the boot perhaps a loose jack, battery or any other items. Or a caliper sticking, ball joints, control arm bushings,drop links etc If its not obvious when driving forward dont worry about it.