IS300FSPORT

Uniroyal Rainsport 5 on an IS300H drove through huge puddles on the motorway without any hesitation set off x4 keeps the car planted in the rain. Giving confidence levels that make it feel like is this for real it should be dangerous, I wont quote the speed. Highly recommend them if you reside North of the UK like me where we see a lot of rain.

Sorry replied on the other thread, I think that drain hole is routing water down the wheel arch.

I dont think its connected to a tube, its a drain hole that must be routing water down a path it comes out under the arch if you look carefully. Tested it with a hose a while back.

Try this

Invest in a Noco GB40 booster will get you going again Halfords https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/noco-gb40-1000a-jump-starter-721898.html

Agree with the majority on here recommend to get it done from a main dealer should your radio fail they should cover it. Like a few others on here I have done it myself without any ill consequences I have to admit I've removed the 12v battery upto 2-3x during lockdown to recharge it & later decided to fit a new one due to its age without a single issue. The main traction (high voltage) battery is a main dealer job. Thats located under the boot panels usually where you will find a spare wheel, your not touching this. The 12v battery can be replaced without any special tools & taking precaution ensure the radio is off car is off & terminals are reconnected correctly to the correct negative & positive posts (stating the obvious) but it is such an easy mistake to make if not paying attention. Do so at your own risk if your on a budget if successful you save around £150 from paying main dealer to do it. Not a complicated job at all. If you have breakdown cover get them to jump start/tow you to the nearest dealer.

Where are you located? To jump start, lift the bonnet under the black plastic fuse cover you will see a red plastic clip/cover thats your positive connection & put the negative jump cable on a metal part. The 12v Battery is located in the boot behind the left cover, make sure radio & power is OFF before undertaking anywork, you need a 10mm spanner negative cable first then positive if your replacing the battery. (Dont jump start from the boot) New battery approx £150 https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-auxiliary-12v-starter-battery/ (Ignore the multimeter but thats your connection points to jump start follow the black & red cables)

Quick question what do the facelift models have on display is it PSI/KPA measurement any pictures pls? I may consider getting a genuine module from a breakers yard, is any additional cable/harness required or just the module.

Driving the car regularly should help it charge but it depends on the age & type of life the battery has had. If its been discharged regularly i.e left unused for prolonged periods (lockdown didnt favour these low capacity batteries) then driving it wiill only keep it topped up enough to get going, accidentally leaving on interior lights is all it takes for it to cause a problem. They never recover from a discharge unless your regularly maintaining it. If past 5 years the best option is to replace it for a genuine one just for peace of mind if you plan on keeping the car. There is no visible sensor on these batteries just a vent tube. Monitor it with a multimeter if its reading below 10.9v scrap it & just buy a new one.

Happy New Year The AC drain pipe is situated just above the CVT transmission oil pan I tried taking a looking & couldnt reach it on the last oil change. Its a buggar to get to! Unless you have thin & skinny long hands you may be able to reach it. Be careful if the exhaust is hot! Your right if it builds up enough of a puddle it can cause issues with electronics potentially causing a short circuit, directly under the seats are airbag connectors & heated/cooled/movement cables. Not to worry you but I'd suggest not to leave it unattended if you cant do it yourselt get it booked in. For now just place a thick towel to absorb any water from travelling around the car to minimise any damage & keep an eye on it, & suction out the water perhaps with a carpet machine if you have one to minimise any funky damp smells & to avoid windows misting up. Thats assuming its the AC pipe check rubber door seal, ac condenser usually near where the cabin filter lives. Remove any blocked leafs from under the wiper section panel any blockage? Look for water bottle accidentally left under seat etc This may help from the University of youtube getting to the AC drain. If you dont mind keep us posted pls I'm always looking to learn a thing or two with these fixes im sure most owners will face this at some point during (long term ownership)

Keep us updated pls interested in seeing if this works out.

If I have this positioned correctly, (yellow line) just before it bottoms out place the ramp on the drive so the exit wheels lift, no need to go on pavement (red line avoid) As long as it is on your own drive I don't think it is a problem for the local authority.

- 12v Tyre inflator is a must - Tyre plug kit seen them used will get you out of trouble (Temporarily lets you continue with your journey) - Locking wheel nut key/jack/nut removal spanner Pray & hope for the best. As long as your tyres are in decent condition over 5mm thread & not aged rubber you should be fine just depends on road debris. https://youtube.com/shorts/-UTnDheAMcE?si=1CXETAHinut72Kn-

Look on Amazon Rubber speed humps idealy heavy duty so not blown away by wind. Example VEVOR 3 Pack of 2 11000lbs per Axle Capacity Protective Wire Cord Ramp Driveway Rubber Traffic Speed Bumps Cable Protector https://amzn.eu/d/eRWe2bU

This may help...

Dont get in the car until your off the drive

Yes i understand put perhaps all ES300H owners round up from this forum & nominate a lead to send a collective email copying everybody in, raise it as a concern to the Lexus head office to get their attention & request them to do something before going to the press. Failing this surely can get them custom made plates from a reputable garage thats willing to do it. It will work out cheaper in the long run on insurance premium increase & the excess when a claim is submitted, etc

Consider getting a metal plate fitted behind the passenger headlight, this will potentially stop them once they remove your wheel arch liner back, but if they are in a quiet car park it depends how much time they have on their side it will at least slow them down. Unfortunately, damage to the bumper & bodywork will still happen, though. If possible, park close to a wall to reduce your chances of an attempt, making it extremely difficult for theifs. If you're leaving the car unattended for a long time, remove the 12v negative cable from your battery. It's located in the boot. This will mean you need to lock the car manually each door & *warning there is no alarm it just means no power to the car, making it impossible to drive away without being towed. Make sure you can get back into the boot though with your key. An alternative option is to remove a fuse/relay temporarily. Bollards on your drive/wheel clamps/steering lock all can easily be cut off with todays cordless power tools, which just means more noise, which they obviously dont want. The other options are a professional installed insurance approved alarm/immobiliser.

Your 12v battery has done very well if its never been trickle charged. You must be using it just enough to keep it topped up. Is your battery AGM? I think they handle discharge & recover much better than the lead acid batteries. (For info/awareness for the original poster) There are no tell tale signs the battery is dying like a conventional non-hybrid engine where a slow turnover of the starter motor gives it away the battery is dying. Hybrids dont have a starter motor so its not picked up early enough. Owners have reported pushing the power button & the warning message popping up put it into P. A simple powerpack like a Noco GB40 charged & kept in the boot reduces your chances of being stranded. The below are not faults as such more keeping ontop of maintenance: - Squeaky brakes is usually caused by seized slider pins that just need a regrease. - Hybrid cooling fan if higher mileage get the fan & filter cleaned it can get blocked with dust or pet hairs.

100% echo this...

There is no need to remove the clamps from the actual battery terminals so you dont actually loose connection or risk a short circuit. Its simple as loosen 10mm nut add the eyelet to the bolt & put the nut back on. Positive first then negative, 10 min job at the most. With the Caveat - I dont know if adding a battery monitor will cause any long term battery drain as its a device constantly using a power source from the 12v battery which defies the purpose of all this we want to reserve the battery voltage to avoid or slow down the discharge rate.

Yes your right the Noco Genius 5 does come with standard eyelets that can be removed from the crocodile clips to permanently hard wire to the battery, but as I often charge batteries for other cars within the family I needed a spare cable. If that makes sense. Re closing the cover I used a dremel to create a 1cm square to pass the cable through it right at the bottom of the cover, the plug is actually hidden under the rubber boot mat can't even tell its there. 30 second job now with an accessible outside socket installed its so convenient.

Update I've added a quick connect lead to the battery terminals. For info - The NOCO GC002 connector is compatible with the NOCO Genius 5 or 10 charger. Saves you from removing the battery cover each time & using the crocodile clips not ideal. Makes it so much easier to maintain the 12v battery. Bought the cable from Amazon discounted from £15.95 to £12.95 if any of you are interested. (To be fair its not really necessary if you use the car regularly) I tried to keep as OEM looking as possible put the cable in a conduit for extra pre-caution. Its a fused cable anyway so its safe to use. Recommend it if your not driving the car regularly or leaving it unattended for a long time you wont come back to a flat battery potentially leaving you stranded.

Can you check which version of the app your running if its an old version they may have put a bug fix in since. Hold the App icon & go to App info at the bottom it will have a version number. & which ODB2 Adapter are you using if not original you may experience issues. I bought mine in August 2023 from Amazon, currently running on v8.0.2 at the time I ran the TPMS function to retrieve the individual codes & didnt experience any issues or run into any errors. Checking the Play store Carista they are now on version v8.1 last updated on 5th Dec. It has a reference to Lexus not sure if its a general statement or if they added anything? Service Perform simple service procedures without the mechanic’s help and spare yourself the long waiting time and extra costs at the workshop. For certain Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT, Cupra, Škoda models: 1. Electronic parking brake (EPB) retraction tool; Service reset; Detailed ECU information 2. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration 3. Battery registration For certain Toyota, Lexus, Scion models: 1. Tire pressure sensors (TPMS) 2. ABS/VSC/TRAC inspection 3. Detailed ECU information