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I do love my car I don’t know how Lexus/Toyota did it I haven’t driven my car for 3-4 days until yesterday and made me realise vs my previous owned for five years Audi A4 2.0 TFSI SE b7 it’s such a great machine to drive great combinations of agility, smoothness, power acceleration, speed, quality, solid feel stability, good fuel economy, very understated on the road, intuitive when used to its systems all in one package. Great car and great job by Lexus. 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all I have a brand new issue I think it’s my drivers right wheel droning loudly at various speeds are you supposed to change them in pairs left and right? And how much money should I expect with ome parts. It’s frustrating because if I recall Lexus charges a diagnosis fee first?
 

Also last month I changed one tmps that was leaking air that was causing me untold headaches losing 3-4 psi every week problem solved now Lexus could not find issue with it but problems gone now. 

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I’ve booked my car in for May with Lexus doing all four discs plus possible bearings I’m looking at around £1000+ bill 😪 thank God I have the 10% Lexus owners club discount card to help a bit.

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12 hours ago, Riccccccardo said:

I’ve booked my car in for May with Lexus doing all four discs plus possible bearings I’m looking at around £1000+ bill 😪 thank God I have the 10% Lexus owners club discount card to help a bit.

Have you ever considered the up to 15 year old extended warranty? Would it have covered you for wheel bearings? 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/12/2022 at 10:22 AM, Phil xxkr said:

Have you ever considered the up to 15 year old extended warranty? Would it have covered you for wheel bearings? 

Hi my cars to old 10 years old now. 
 

can anyone tell me why Lexus Sidcup is quoting me £600 each for wheel bearings I’m of the understanding you should change both of ones gone. I’m shocked costs so much money? Is that the standard going rate or is there something special about the 450h wheel bearings???

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok Lexus called me here goes. They said the rear only 30% worn so I should leave it which I am. The fronts discs on amber which I’m changing. But here’s the thing they told me the discs have been enhanced better so price up from quote they gave me of £325 they didn’t say but maybe (£400) but they will try to honour the original quote as their mistake. Yes it was front drivers bearing gone out they recommended to leave other side but I’m like look I’m having this car for next couple of years and the other side will probably go out at some point as well over next 40k miles so change that as well. Also they informed me the rear near side tire slashed so I need to buy a new tire. 

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The front brakes are likely to cost in the £600 region or more. F-Sport and Premier trim cars have two-piece front rotors which cost more than twice the "standard" rotors. It will be great if they can stick to their original quote and only charge you £325. 

Let me know how much they actually quote you for the brakes as I will likely face the same bill down the road.

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/3/2022 at 12:00 PM, Anevb said:

The front brakes are likely to cost in the £600 region or more. F-Sport and Premier trim cars have two-piece front rotors which cost more than twice the "standard" rotors. It will be great if they can stick to their original quote and only charge you £325. 

Let me know how much they actually quote you for the brakes as I will likely face the same bill down the road.

Hi sorry for late reply I no longer have the price but as u stated the f sport discs are a higher price then the normal discs also I non Lexus garage told me only the f sport discs can go on I don’t know how true that is? 
 

id longer to say it’s all good now since fitting but I’m getting this random, intermittent squealing noise at 1-5 mph it comes and goes typical bought it to Lexus and no noises for now. I feel noise coming from near side front but I could be wrong. Lexus can’t  find issue at moment because it’s decided not to make the car has decided no to make the noise now.  

 

 

 

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Yesterday service and mot passed at Lexus but……. As usual with my luck with cars. 
 

I was told car needs replacement of 

 

Lexus Sidcup


00/09/22


Both rear heat shields need changing due to corrosion and one missing  

Both front shock ex sobers been leaking last two years plus causing excessive wear on outer front tires so I’m biting the bullet and getting it done as I have major OCD issue especially when it comes to my cars.  


Total £1600. 
 

preying next year I’ll have nothing left to do I spend £1600 last year as well🙈🙈🙈

 

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Todays been a whirlwind fronts shocks replaced. But a further investigation into squeeling noise and steering wheel and gear stick judder from front wheels. 
 

On further investigation from mecanic they asked if I drive hard and fast or leave brakes pushed down all the time  reply NOPE they suggested may 2022 front disc(s) replaced by them are now warped so they will replace them free of charge. But my car does have auto brake which is always on. 
 

it’s all perplexing to me. 

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51 minutes ago, Riccccccardo said:

they suggested may 2022 front disc(s) replaced by them are now warped so they will replace them free of charge.

Almost certainly not warped - very difficult to do that. Likely to be just pad material unevenly transferred to the disc. 

This is one of many articles that explains this:

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

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On 9/2/2022 at 5:59 PM, ColinBarber said:

Almost certainly not warped - very difficult to do that. Likely to be just pad material unevenly transferred to the disc. 

This is one of many articles that explains this:

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

Hi it was all a bit of a whirlwind week so after investigations I was told I need new front discs due to warping but would be changed as goodwill under warranty. 
 

but I’ve been racking my head hard last seven days how this happened I don’t drive mad or brake fast and hard only when I have to I.e approaching a roundabout or coming off a motorway I drove the new warped discs exactly the same way I drove the old discs fitted with the car when I bought it. 
 

I have studied several YouTube and websites on bedding in new discs/brakes which Lexus did not tell me to do or anything about that. 
 

it’s all a mystery my biggest fear is how to avoid this happening again. I’m aware for first few hundred miles you baby gently the brakes when new which I’m trying to do yesterday I even employed a new tactic of put the car in neutral in heavy traffic or red light just so the pads are not clamped to the hot brake disc. 
 

I’ve never been in this situation before and most of my car history I’ve had the sport versions of cars. So truly surprised to be in this predicament. 

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On 9/2/2022 at 5:59 PM, ColinBarber said:

Almost certainly not warped - very difficult to do that. Likely to be just pad material unevenly transferred to the disc. 

This is one of many articles that explains this:

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

On my research found stuff like this. 
 

 

F0849071-C7D6-4CFB-AA02-2F261081A538.png

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Front disc warping was one of the only real gripes I had regarding my GS.

It happened to me twice; new discs and pads the first time and then it reoccurred 18 months later.  Unlike you though, the dealer wouldn't help and just said I needed new discs and pads.

I was told that it might be due to excess heat in the pad area but I can't say for sure if that is what it was.

The advice I got was to not hold the car on the brakes after a hard stop as the heat spot caused by the pads can cause the issue.

Funnily enough, whilst waiting to decide what to do (including considering skimming the discs are they were barely worn) the problems went away on its own!

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28 minutes ago, Shahpor said:

Funnily enough, whilst waiting to decide what to do (including considering skimming the discs are they were barely worn) the problems went away on its own!

Which implies it was just friction material transfer.

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I’ve had to completely change my driving style with the newly replaced discs especially when nearing work place so as to not leave brakes super hot cos of hard braking. not dragging/holding the breaks and do light pulsing press’s in my general driving style. Is this why race cars do cool down laps re brakes?

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10 minutes ago, Riccccccardo said:

I’ve had to completely change my driving style with the newly replaced discs especially when nearing work place so as to not leave brakes super hot cos of hard braking. not dragging/holding the breaks and do light pulsing press’s in my general driving style. Is this why race cars do cool down laps re brakes?

If you are actually using the pads at all on a hybrid then you seriously need to change your driving style lol.
It should be using the regenerative braking unless you are REALLY slamming on the brakes or going less than 10mph.

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10 hours ago, Steven Lockey said:

If you are actually using the pads at all on a hybrid then you seriously need to change your driving style lol.
It should be using the regenerative braking unless you are REALLY slamming on the brakes or going less than 10mph.

I’ve always driven hard with all my cars I wouldn’t say I slam the breaks just sprinted driving style when in the mood every other day. 😅 I do also now have to factor this is the heaviest car I’ve ever owned it’s almost two tons. My last car was around 1.5 tons and was a Audi A4 special edition 2.0tfsi mk7 with ome drilled breaks and all wheel drive and handled everything I threw at it easily including even when I changed all the discs on it at some point after years of ownership. 

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I have another small issue that I’ve been sitting on maybe last ten months which beginning to grate me that’s reared it’s ugly head again. 
 

re constant tire light on one particular wheel. The drivers rear wheel specifically the tire keeps setting off the tire light I’ve tired to problem solve myself alone but running out of ideas. 
 

when I bought the car the tire valve sensors were cheap China knock off so I had to get all four changed. 
 

Tire pressure sensors changed ******

19/02/21 (rear right) Westfield motors

12/03/21 (Front right) Westfield motors

14/08/21 (front left) Westfield motors

03/02/22 (rear left) Lexus Sidcup. 

 

On the drivers rear wheel I’m losing maybe 3-5 psi every 1-2 weeks setting off tire light. 
 

so I finally took it to a tire shop £15 25/8/22 they said they could find no leaks of places where the air could be coming out off no puncture no gaps no bubbles etc at all so I bit bullet and paid Luke’s tyres to put sealant rear drivers side tire as losing 3-5psi a week. 

Tire Light came back on 12/9/21 losing 5 psi.

 

considering I only changed rear drivers valve 19/02/21 does this mean the valve is leaking air since no one can explain why this is an issue if you all know a new one is not cheap! at all I think Lexus charge £150 maybe independent around £90ish  for a new one.

 

 

 

 

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My very good mate suggested to me re the #air leak that I need to refurb the wheels when I bought the car all the wheels were nicely re painted but a bit worse for west on the edges. I did have future plans to refurb them one day so this maybe the issue. I remember re my previous car shabby poorly refurbished wheels by previous owner I also had a constant air leak for what seemed like no reason. When I got them all personal refurbed the leaking air issue went away instantly overnight. 

which means I’m goona have to speed up when I refurb them in the future 😅

 

 

pictures re my Audi wheels. 

7080FC0B-FDF0-4D87-86F6-0E223F5E2846.jpeg

AF9F4ED0-5AB3-4D2B-8B41-E2FC28948DF4.jpeg

95B2C40B-5685-4D18-B648-625ED8E9A53C.jpeg

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On 9/14/2022 at 5:50 AM, Riccccccardo said:

I’ve always driven hard with all my cars I wouldn’t say I slam the breaks just sprinted driving style when in the mood every other day. 😅 I do also now have to factor this is the heaviest car I’ve ever owned it’s almost two tons. My last car was around 1.5 tons and was a Audi A4 special edition 2.0tfsi mk7 with ome drilled breaks and all wheel drive and handled everything I threw at it easily including even when I changed all the discs on it at some point after years of ownership. 

Just cos the brakes CAN handle it doesn't mean they should handle it.

And yeah it's really slamming on the brakes hard to get them to kick in at all. In normal driving the brake pads should basically never be used. Kinda the point of regenerative braking since you want to recover as much power as possible and store it in the Battery rather than wasting it as heat on the brake pads. The friction brakes are literally there for emergencies and when going very slowly (which should cause very little wear)

On set of pads lasts most GS450hs about 100k+ miles. Mine is at 195k miles and on it's 2nd set of pads.

If you are regularly braking hard enough to hit the pads in non-emergency situations then you are driving dangerously because at those levels of braking you are extremely vulnerable to something out of your control going wrong no matter how good a driver you are. Road conditions are a killer and oil/diesel or black ice can be completely invisible as can a failing road surface.

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19 hours ago, Steven Lockey said:

If you are regularly braking hard enough to hit the pads in non-emergency situations then you are driving dangerously because at those levels of braking you are extremely vulnerable to something out of your control going wrong no matter how good a driver you are.

That is rather hyperbolic. At high speed the amount of retardation is quite low so you often engage the mechanical brakes when coming off a motorway, at roundabouts at the end of dual carriageways etc.

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On 9/17/2022 at 11:38 AM, ColinBarber said:

That is rather hyperbolic. At high speed the amount of retardation is quite low so you often engage the mechanical brakes when coming off a motorway, at roundabouts at the end of dual carriageways etc.

Eh? Amount of retardation is roughly the same unless you are going very slowly when the mechanical brakes kick in automatically. 

I rarely if ever use the mechanical brakes in any of those situations unless something unusual happens like someone cuts in land in front of me e.t.c.
Only time you'd need the mechanical brakes in those situations is if you hammer it down all full-speed till you are practically at the end of the road and then slam the brakes on which is bad driving practice and can be dangerous. 

The electric braking provides more than enough braking for almost every normal driving situation.

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17 minutes ago, Steven Lockey said:

Eh? Amount of retardation is roughly the same unless you are going very slowly when the mechanical brakes kick in automatically. 

I rarely if ever use the mechanical brakes in any of those situations unless something unusual happens like someone cuts in land in front of me e.t.c.
Only time you'd need the mechanical brakes in those situations is if you hammer it down all full-speed till you are practically at the end of the road and then slam the brakes on which is bad driving practice and can be dangerous. 

The electric braking provides more than enough braking for almost every normal driving situation.

This is simply not true, at least for the Mk4 GS that I had.

The regen braking was certainly not strong enough to slow me down effectively when, like Colin said, coming off dual carriageways.  Entering the slip road at a perfectly reasonable 50mph would definitely require me to use to brakes quite a bit before reaching the junction/roundabout on the exit.

Perhaps it depends on the roads you drive on, but around here, using the brakes is not optional.

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