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No Green Ignition Light


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2 hours ago, Lageoddvin said:

@mepI had a similar issue to what you describe last summer when my battery died due to leaving the boot open, and the lamp draining the battery. When i tried to connect the battery again, i had all kinds of strange electrical issues. What i did was leave the battery unhooked over night, then install battery and leave the car overnight, without touching anything. Did not try to start it, not unlock or lock, nothing. Then in the morning, it seemed the "brain" had snapped back into place, and everything was alright again. Best i could read regarding it was that the brain of the car was stuck, thinking the battery was faulty, and that disconnecting it for some time, and then connecting it would be the best way forward. Supposedly not that uncommon for a range of cars according to my brothers in-laws.

Possibly 10 minutes was not enough - worth a try.

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This does indeed sound like a strange occurrence. Seeing that you have a fob, have you tried the immobiliser reset procedure? I can't quite remember the specifics but this is what I found online.

  1. Get out of the vehicle. 
  2. Lock the car with the key fob or lock the driver’s door with the key.
  3. Leave the vehicle parked for at least 5 minutes. 
  4. Press unlock on the keyfob to unlock the car.  Don’t open any doors yet. 
  5. Remove the emergency key from the key fob and lock/unlock the driver’s door three times. 
  6. Now enter the vehicle and start the engine. If your car has Start/Stop button, press the button with your keyfob, not your finger. 

I'm sorry if this is something you've tried already but it sounds like there is not much of an electrical issue but something is locking out your car.

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Hi Lagepddnin.  Sad to say done all of this and more and still no response.  Interesting that we are moving forward though. We now get the green light LED but No audio when pressing for the ignition and Orange LED.

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1 hour ago, mep said:

Hi Error.  Tried the immobiliser sequence and still no good.

That's a shame although I wasn't holding out too much hope.

So it sounds like we might have a problem with either the Main ECU or the Power Source Control ECU. Regardless of the clutch switch which inputs a signal into your Main ECU, as long as the Power SW sends a signal to the Power Source Control which then activates the Main ECU supply it should engage accessories/ignition without attempting to start the engine. Seeing that you can see illumination on the switch means we have the 12V supply going there. Question now is what happens between there and the power source control.
image.thumb.png.6f5d89b3464491cfae0603cd8fb59369.png

Depending on how confident you are in reading the above you can trace the signal coming from the power switch to check if it is indeed arriving at the power source control. The diagram below should help with locating the ECU inside your vehicle.
image.thumb.png.d6a1aab1c5ea017726226f83f3e1dc90.png

Here's another snippet that shows what happens inside the power switch:
image.thumb.png.9524c2494e2ef5634ce00e9691dc5d35.png

 

These documents are all available on https://cardiagn.com/ all you need to do is find the desired model and search through the library.

 

I hope this gives you a little more to work with?
 

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Hello. Dyslexix means all of the above are pretty confusing I am sorry to say and especially after all your efforts. I am having some help and so am currently looking to see if I can obtain a Power Source Control ECU.  I hope eBay knows what I'm asking for.  Do you know if any of these will cause my key fob to stop being recognised by the car?  Right now it seems to work.  I wouldn't want to spend money on something that then means I have yet another problem to solve.

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No problem at all, hopefully you're able to source one at a good price? Sometimes if you can't find the specific part you can search for "Lexus IS220d Breaking" and contact scrapyards? They normally offer best rates however they don't list all components available so it may take a little time to find the right part.

Replacing it should not cause fob issues as keyfob decoding is done by the Certification ECU situated in the boot.

Hope you get this sorted, what a nightmare!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello so I got the power source control box and replaced the one on the car with the new one and it’s still the same and I also tried the sequence again with the new box in place to no avail 

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PLEASE READ all previous comments before telling me to do what someone else has and I have already tried.

Hello All.

To date.

New Car Battery

Replaced Battery in Key Fob

Replaced Start button

Replaced Ignition relay

Replaced Drivers Door Courtesy Switch

Replaced Power Source Control ECU

 

Currently I have goner from NO lights nothing no green LED to

Everything seems to be working except, Audio and and even with Green LED in Start Button,  still no Starting or release of Steering Lock.

 

All suggestions gratefully received.  

 

PLEASE READ all previous comments before telling me to do what someone else has and I have already tried.

 

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At this point Martin, I think you will need the TechStream software to help you run some further diagnostics.  You can get a copy from eBay.

If you look at the Engine section of the manual and navigate to:

2AD-FHV STARTING - ENTRY AND START SYSTEM - HOW TO PROCEED WITH TROUBLESHOOTING

step 8 shows you a list of active tests that can be done with the TechStream software, as well as checking the ECU's.

If you are unsure how to test the pinouts on the ECU's then I am afraid you might have to consult a specialist.

Good luck.

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