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Kick sensor boot opening


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Thought I'd share a quick video of the kick sensor boot opening mod I did a while back. I've done quite a lot of mods since my last post. Will try and update here in the coming weeks. 

The system works in combination with uprated struts sold by SGS engineering and some medium strength die springs.

Here is the video:

 

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6 hours ago, zoricib said:

That's awesome! When is the "how to" coming ? 😁

Thanks 🙂 it's really handy when you have your hands full trying to load the boot. 

didn't take too much photos of the process. So not sure if a detailed how-to is coming anytime soon lol. But it's rather straight forward. It work's as follows:

The boot release button that we press on the boot-lid is a 2 wire switch. It's ground switched. When you press the button it completes the ground connection. When that switch is presed, the car deals with the logic, it checks to see if fob is present in that outside boot zone and if so then it actually sends power back to the lock actuator to unlock the boot. This is where the kick sensor comes in, the kick sensor is a universal kit, when it detects a kick motion, it completes a ground connection. So all I did was took that connection and tapped it into the ground wire of the boot release switch.

So when I approach the car and if ACC is off then the kick sensor is active via the permenant +12v power. If the kick sensor detects a kick motion at this point (regardless of if the key fob is in the zone or not) it will just complete the ground circuit to the boot opening button. The car will see this as someone has pressed the boot button. At that point the car checks to see if fob is in the zone and if so proceeds with unlocking the boot. So, even if kit malfunctions, as long as key fob isn't right next to the boot then it won't unlock.

The kick sensor also disables itself when ACC is on.

Hope that makes sense 

Also just to mention, i did this earlier this year and it's been working really well 🙂 

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8 minutes ago, Texas said:

Question? Where did you get the +12v (assuming around boot area) permanent supply for the IR sensor?

From the ML amp. There is a permanent +12V and ACC +12V all available in the ML amp connectors.

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I take it because it has worked for a while ( and you won’t use it when the actual amp is in use) the current draw  of the sensor is not enough to upset the ML amp supply fuse.

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1 minute ago, Texas said:

I take it because it has worked for a while ( and you won’t use it when the actual amp is in use) the current draw  of the sensor is not enough to upset the ML amp supply fuse.

The sensor's current draw is very minimal. If I remember correctly from the top of my head, the ML amp is powered by 30A fuse (possibly even 2 of them, can't remember as it's been a while). The sensor's current draw is way within the tolerance of the amp. Been running this set up for quite some time and no issues.

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2 hours ago, BC99 said:

Nice!

How did you manage to fix the springs to make the bootlid pop open? on the boot struts?

Unscrew the end cap on the strut and put the spring with washers on each end. As pictured below

20210223_124345-01.jpeg

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