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99 LS 400 engine won't start, clicking when Turing over


TomAmg
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Hi, I hope you can help my dad with a problem he's having with he's 99 LS 400. Purchase a month or so ago. He was about to go on a road trip with the car. He tried to start the vehicle but all he kept hearing was a clicking noise. The car has been sat up for a long time as the previous owner passed away. My Dad has been using the car every day for short trips but lasting 35/40 minutes each time. So when he tried to start the car on Friday, it wouldn't fire, it kept clicking he said. We had the RAC out to it already with the same acurance, the RAC chap disconnected one of the Battery terminals for 10 minutes and then reconnected and the car fired into life. Can anyone throw some light on to which might be happening. When I took a look at the car today. I turned the ignition on, tried opening a window but the Battery power seemed dead. I have removed the Battery and put it on charge. Can anyone recommend which I do next when I reconnect the Battery?

 

Thank you, Tom

 

I will share some pictures once I get this issue sorted. Much appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I meant to add, when the RAC chap inspected the Battery on the previous call out, he said the Battery was holding good voltage. Also I noticed when Turing on the ignition today the dash lights were flicking like, also when Turing the key to the very last position the car just kept clicking. Thank you. 

 

Tom 

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5 hours ago, TomAmg said:

I meant to add, when the RAC chap inspected the battery on the previous call out, he said the battery was holding good voltage. Also I noticed when Turing on the ignition today the dash lights were flicking like, also when Turing the key to the very last position the car just kept clicking. Thank you. 

 

Tom 

I would start with a new Battery before you do anything else

it is not a massive cost and if your Battery is that old is probably a good buy for the future, and it will probably solve your problem, or at least eliminate the Battery as faulty and you know it need more in depth investigation 

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Buy the way the clicking is normally the solenoid clicking 

there is enough power to activate solenoid but not enormous turn the engine 

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So I've just reconnected the Battery,the ignition was well alight. I lowered the drivers window. But I forgot to wait 6 mins for the vsc to reset. The car had good power but it obviously wouldn't start because of the immobilizer. I have now taken the Battery off and put it on further charge. 

 

Could some advise on what exactly is the method once I reconnect up the Battery to the car? I find the handbook very confusing to say the least. 

 

 

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Tom hi ........  maybe ask Steve 2006 for some thoughts .  he's a Mod on here with HUGE experience of these cars 

BUT you cannot directly ask a Mod it seems .  so wait a little and I'm sure he'll pop in and take a look at this post

BTW  I have absolutely no idea how to help you  ........  when the engine won't start and it's just a " clicking " sound then that used to be a tell tale sign that the starter motor was playing-up

Battery and electrics in a 23 year old car can be troublesome sadly

Malc

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99% chance that it's the Battery.

There's enough current to pull in the contacts of the starter solenoid but as soon as the connection is made and power flows through to the starter motor, the voltage drops and there isn't enough power to do that. That causes the solenoid contacts to drop out again and the whole cycle continues for as long as you keep the key in the starter position. The constant making and releasing of the contacts is often referred to as 'solenoid chatter'.

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Hi Tom and welcome to the LOC.

Having looked through all your symptoms I would agree with other members to firstly replace the Battery if you are unsure as to its age and condition.

Make sure the replacement Battery has the terminals on the correct side and same position.

There is a known problem with the LS400 starter motor not activating just clicking but it’s a major project to replace it being located under the intake between the valley.

As regards the immobiliser light not going off you need to turn the key to ignition position and leave it there for around 7 minutes then remove the key, lock then unlock the car then it should start.

The VSC light should go off once the car has been driven a few miles.

You will probably also find the auto window feature no longer works ( one touch up/down function) this may therefore need resetting.

Just ask if you need the procedure 😀

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1 hour ago, Malc said:

Tom hi ........  maybe ask Steve 2006 for some thoughts .  he's a Mod on here with HUGE experience of these cars 

BUT you cannot directly ask a Mod it seems .  so wait a little and I'm sure he'll pop in and take a look at this post

BTW  I have absolutely no idea how to help you  ........  when the engine won't start and it's just a " clicking " sound then that used to be a tell tale sign that the starter motor was playing-up

Battery and electrics in a 23 year old car can be troublesome sadly

Malc

I can be contacted by PM via my username Malc.

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Much appreciate all the advice you given me guys, I'll update when I do find out the issue. I have the Battery on charge currently. I'm out today with my son for he's birthday activity. Once home I will try the Battery reconnect 7 mins method leaving the car on the on ingition position then turn the car off lock it. Then unlock and try starting the car if this fails I'll get a new Battery

 

Again thank yous all for the advice much appreciated. 

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Put the Battery on the car once again, did the 7 min immobilizer reset. The car didn't start kept clicking. Decided to call out the RAC again. The patrol man said the Battery had 12.4 volts tried starting the car once again, it sounded like it had more effort to start than when I did. Didn't start. So he put the booster pack on it for a few minutes still didn't fire. He then took the negative terminal off the Battery for 10 minutes. No key in ignition. He then tried starting again. The car did want to start but didn't. He then left the booster pack on the car a good 10 minutes. He then tried again much more turn over but still didn't start. Left it on further few minutes, but also pressed the accelerator pedal twice, and said he buried the pedal to the floor and it fired up. I have since taken it for a 25 minutes drive, returned, and it started straight away. He reckons best to buy a new Battery as on he's computer bthe Battery come back as in the red area of broken. But did also suggest charging it for 48 hours then do the negative terminal 10 mins off reset. And the car should fire up. 

So it does seem like its Battery related. When my dad first purchase the car. The Battery terminals were loose from the previous owners friend tightening the terminals. This is what happened originally. On first RAC call out. My dad has since told me he locked the car with windows open and placed a bottle of water on the driver's seat, this must of triggered the immobilizer to play up in the first place, does this sound possible. On the Battery casing it says leave terminals off for 6 minutes before trying to start the car if the Battery terminals have been removed. 

 

On this car it's seems it 10 minutes with just the negative terminal removed. With no key in the ignition. Then after 10 minutes put the negative terminal back on, then the car should start. 

 

 

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I had exactly this experience about 8 years ago, with RAC going (Battery okay), but it was not.

As  I recall when I got a local motor factor to look, they could see one of the cells knackered so that it would look like it was holding right volts, but voltage dropped like a stone under load of the LS starter motor.

I actually had been taking out Battery to charge up (on the basis of the RAC man saying all tickety-boo) and after two mornings of this shenanigans just got a new Battery.

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