Power Cap

[aaronabbott]

are they really needed?

im going to eventually be running 2 amps,one 2 channel amp to run the sub off and a 4 channel amp for the front components and 6x9's.so is it advisable to get one to help the Battery or should i not bother

azz

[Y2Kanjar]

you know what i would like to know this to..

seen as my light dim very very low with the 12" i have now.... but never happend to when i had my 15"...Explain please

[redz_UK]

nope..

invest in a new Battery..

no good whatsoever.. i have one but will be getting rid of it.. prob throw it in with my stuff for sale..

[84Stoney]

I have a similar setup ready to fit (sub amp + 4 channel amp, peaking at upto 5kW!).

Was gonna go for a Cap, and have been adviced to Car Audio shops, but know some people (including Redz_UK by the sound of it!) really don't rate them.

I am now unsure, (and completely run out of funds after sorting the home system!).

I'm sure Wozza will have an opinion also.

[redz_UK]

I have a similar setup ready to fit (sub amp + 4 channel amp, peaking at upto 5kW!).

Was gonna go for a Cap, and have been adviced to Car Audio shops, but know some people (including Redz_UK by the sound of it!) really don't rate them.

I am now unsure, (and completely run out of funds after sorting the home system!).

I'm sure Wozza will have an opinion also.

they are very cheap to make and stores have a massive mark up on them..

A simple explanation of why they are no good is as follows..

your alternator charges the Battery, the cap sits between the bat and amp and needs to be charged. the batt 'charges' the cap. all so good so far...

when the bass kicks in it takes its power from the path of least resistance ie the cap which pretty much drains in micro seconds! To keep the power coming the power comes through the cap form the Battery but it is also looking for some of that power to charge it also..

if the cap was extremely efficint and was capable of massive storage (even the 5 farad caps arent enough) then they may have some use..

Now this is how i understand it but may not be 100% accurate.

Rather than spend this money i would upgrade to a good Battery. A cap will not stop the lights dimming, and may make it worse.

I have one in at the moment but was definately a mistake!!

[DJ Wozza]

Opinions differ and both sides have very plausible arguments, I'm not saying which one is better,

both work for different people in different applications with good results.

In all honesty, a cap costing less than £100 is probably going to do more harm than good.

Efficiency is the key, along with Capacity (Farads). The more efficient ones are generally made by the

big name companies, and they charge a premium for them. Also the larger the Capacity (Farads) again

the larger the cost.

It is a lot easier to explain face to face they way they work, but in as simple terms as I can here goes.

(you decide for yourself if the money would be better off on bigger battery/second battery/split charging system/cap or combination)

Basically the Capacitor charges & discharges electricity faster than a conventional car Battery.

If you can imagine you sytem pumping out a regular bass beat. With your lights on the headlights go slightly dim in time to the bass

when your amplifier is drawing the most current from your electrical system.

So if you now imagine a heartbeat monitor with a paper printout you would get a straight line with a regularly spaced hump.

This is the cars voltage, and the peaks are the point where your amplifier is demanding the most power. The idea behind the cap

is that it helps to provide the power at those peak points of demand, and recharges itself (very very quickly) in the low demand

points in between the peaks. When there is a space between one big bass beat & the next when the cars electrical system is at

least demand, that is when the capacitor takes energy back from the battery/alternator. In theory it keeps a steadier demand

on the supply, smothes it out if you like,rather than huge peaks & troughs.

Please forgive my explanation, as I am not technically qualified to go further into the scientific details, but I hope it gives you an

idea of what a power cap does and how in theory it is intended to work.

Other people would recommend a second battery(jelly kind so no acid leakage) & split charging system. Wether or not this is right for you

depends on cost, room for Battery placement etc. With good quality batteries (for this kind of use) costing from about £150 upwards

then you have to budget for a split charge system & cable etc I'm guessing £200-£250 would be the kind of costs involved.

For that kind of money you can buy very big HQ power caps, so your options are open.

Firsty if you are planning a system, remember it is always good advice to buy the best (read thickest) power cable you can

afford as it will minimise any power losses between battery/alternator and your system in the boot. This also will then not

need to be replaced later on if you decide to upgrade. I'd suggest 4AWG as a good compromise for a 2 amp system, but

if you are gonna be running very big amps then maybe a 0 or 2AWG run to the boot which then splits to 4AWG to each amp,

(AWG stands for American Wire Gauge). 0AWG looks like this and is quite costly, some people would defo say it is overkill,

(but I know I'll never need to upgrade it and bought it cheap :D).

Here is a 4AWG distribution block to compare the cables size

Incidentally I run a Directed Audio 2.5 Farad Power Cap (behind the fuse panel out of sight).

My system is currently near the limit, any further Power increases would need either a bigger cap or second Battery.

I hope this info helps you out & doesn't confuse you eaven further, either route with good quality components should solve the problems

or most peoples set ups, unless you are going into SPL Competition standard which may need a combination of both technologies.

Let me know if you need any further help mate :D

[redz_UK]

would say the best most cost efficent way would be to do the big three..

1) alternator positive to Battery positive

2) Battery negative to chassis

3) engine ground to chassis

walkthrough

then invest in a decent Battery, doesnt have to be a big optima (although woulod be best) but a new, highly rated, Battery. think its the bosch asia tech / silver tech?? that some people on here use??

again, as wozza said, this is my opinion..

[Neil E]

...Have to say, can't fault the ICE advice on here, who needs 'talk audio?'

Q. Is an uprated alternator available for the IS200?

[DJ Wozza]

Q. Is an uprated alternator available for the IS200?

Good question.

Also what is the standard rated output of the IS200 Alternator ?

[aztecbandit1]

A lot of the alternators i used to build averaged at 65amps as i worked for Lucas Automotive for 13 years building them, but most can be upgraded with a new regulator which can be brought quite cheep its just finding the correct one for the type of alternator used in the is200?

On my last car (fiat estate which ran 6 12" subs 6 monoblock amps 2x4 way amps 8 6x9's and a few other bits) i upgraded my alternator with 90amp regulator with a higher output Battery which seemed to cope at the time but then fitted a split charge system like the ones fitted to charge caravan battery's to a second Battery (again quite cheep but does the job) in the boot which made a lot of difference due to the second Battery being charged all the time so no power loss :)

Not sure if this helps but just thought i'd add it

[DJ Wozza]

..... its just finding the correct one for the type of alternator used in the is200?

Sound like you have a mission Chris

[aztecbandit1]

..... its just finding the correct one for the type of alternator used in the is200?

Sound like you have a mission Chris

Not sure if all the alternators are the same make that are fitted to the is200's as over the years they change? will have to have a look at mine to see what make it is and see what ampage its running at? :D

if i get chance i'll have a look at mine tomorrow as i may be going out to celebrate my birthday :D

[Neil E]

In fear I may modify it, I'm not allowed to poke around under the bonnet of my other half's IS so did a quick search on the Lucas website.

The model quoted for the IS200 2.0 GXE10 for 99- is model LRA02190 90A M6 B+

90A so not bad as standard. I vaguely recall swapping the voltage regulator/brush set on one of my old cars for an uprated version for about £15 (takes 10 mins) so if one is available it could indeed be a useful mod for those with amplifiers of a high fuse rating.

Soarers and V8s are blessed with high output units and large Battery trays so charging isn't the issue for me it's the length of 0 gauge to the boot. I've never tried a cap or a split charge system as SPL isn't my thing, anything prolonged around 90dbA starts to damage your ears ......and mine are old.