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Gas Engineers


Scorps01
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As im off this week it happens to be the week that the dreaded gas engineer comes to pay us his yearly visit (gotta be safe than sorry) and carry out tests? im not normally here so what should i expect, i mean whats tested and roughly how long should he/she be here.

Thanks.

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When the gas board come round to mine, the guy checked the gas pressure and checked the emmissions fromn the flue. They also took the front off the boiler and gave the burner a blow out and clean. Any gas fires are also checked for full burn etc. Never really took much notice of the time, but I guess around half an hour.

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As im off this week it happens to be the week that the dreaded gas engineer comes to pay us his yearly visit (gotta be safe than sorry) and carry out tests? im not normally here so what should i expect, i mean whats tested and roughly how long should he/she be here.

Thanks.

pressure test to detect leaks

visual checks

flue test/check

compliance with regulations

fill a form in

should take about an hour if not less

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an hour to to a service on a combi...lol more like 10 mins..

performance test the emmisions via a probe.

check burner pressure.

no gas leak tests are required or part of the service unless landlords certificate req then gas meter tightness test is done.

case off, visual inspection of flue, burner, water connections etc.

if you get a nice man then he will give the burner a brush.

what boiler have you as some manufactures require certain things done and certain times (ie seals every other year) and of course manufactures service procedures overrule all CORGI regs.

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Well the last time mine that mine took 10 minutes including drinking a cup of tea I called BG and they sent a real engineer round who apologised and took somewhat longer. They should ask you if it's working OK and turn ther stat. up high and make sure the rads warm up - probably what you don't want tomorrow with this mini heat wave :)

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Well the last time mine that mine took 10 minutes including drinking a cup of tea I called BG and they sent a real engineer round who apologised and took somewhat longer. They should ask you if it's working OK and turn ther stat. up high and make sure the rads warm up - probably what you don't want tomorrow with this mini heat wave :)

oh there are some BG cowboys out there lol. i can make a service last as long as you like by doing sutff thats over and above whats required, when a performance test is done the boiler needs to be running. so just turning a tap on will satisfy that. but certainly i ask if heating is working. bleeding the rads does come under the service, i dont have to turn it on.

However having said all that, if you have an open flue boiler (generally one of those behind a fire jobbies) then a full strip down is minimum, along with flue flow tests etc. so at least 40 minutes.

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I made him aware that i'd been on the web to get some info :D anyway he was here for almost 30 mins with a large bloke following him around (me), he checked that the heating was working, took the front of the boiler off to give it a clean checked there was no blockages on the outside vent for the boiler and checked the gas meter. :D

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If you have a non condensing boiler they are now giving out a free label that they attach to your boiler stating its unsafe to use. Apparently regs have changed so they can scare you into having a new boiler at 2.5k.

But it will decrease my bills by 30%....on my maths that means 18 years payback...longer if include the interest I would have earnt on the original capital outlay. Given that the new boiler has an est lifetime of 15 years why would I do it?

I could feel good that I had reduced my carbon footprint but I drive a 4.3 l.V8 !!

It was safe last year- why isn't it safe now

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If you have a non condensing boiler they are now giving out a free label that they attach to your boiler stating its unsafe to use. Apparently regs have changed so they can scare you into having a new boiler at 2.5k.

But it will decrease my bills by 30%....on my maths that means 18 years payback...longer if include the interest I would have earnt on the original capital outlay. Given that the new boiler has an est lifetime of 15 years why would I do it?

I could feel good that I had reduced my carbon footprint but I drive a 4.3 l.V8 !!

It was safe last year- why isn't it safe now

All new boilers nowadays have to be condensing type (unless you get an exemption), thats to comply with the energy efficiency drive from the gov.

All open flue boiler (yes there are still some wall mounted open flue around) have to comply (apart from other things) with the new ventialtion requirements, as of July this year if your vent is less than 90% of the total requirement for the boiler then it is now classed as AT RISK (last year it was Not to Current Standards) and a label is attached and we ADVISE you that there may be a danger to your life and with your permission the appliance should be turned off, if you do not give perm then thats fine. Your boiler may well be working fine all along but thats irrelevent now.

Next year the same situation will be IMMEDIATELY DANGEROUS and we then will not need your permission to turn it off.

Adding an extra vent will negate both situations.

So whoever is saying your non condensing boiler is unsafe, if it is not due to the above and only the fact its a non condensing boiler, tis untrue.

main reason corgi changed the regs is the amount of deaths resulting from CO poisoning from these old boilers.

you remember the incident where to kids died in greece due to CO, Loads of people all said how tragic it was, oh the poor kids, yet those who did not have a CO detector, when i asked if would they like one.....90% said no...

what boiler do you have.. also you can pick up a decent condensing boiler for £500.

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Its a Worcester Heatslave - ~1989 - In an airing cupboard - vents on door and vents in ceiling through to loft

CO detector next to the boiler, in my kids bedrooms and in the lounge.

Youve got me a little concerned now - Are you saying that next year when the guy comes to do my service the likelyhood is that he will just disconnect it?

Engineer never mentioned anything about extra vents - where do these need to go?

Also - when I enquired about cost of new boiler - they all saying similar - usually starting with "well, you get what you pay for......." and usually end up recommending a Worcester Bosch - stating looking at around 2.5K installed.....Admittedly I havent looked into it other than that - but if you are saying you can pick a decent one up for ~500 then thats a different matter and I'd rather get one done now before the regs change next year (if I understood you correctly) when everyone in my predicament will need new boilers at short notice - so end up paying a premium and thats if I can find an engineer with the time to do it....

I'm assuming the 500 doesnt include installation - what sort of figure you looking at for install charge - plus any recommendations for a particular boiler?

Thanks

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is that the natural gas highflow model ? certainly these boilers are room sealed, ie NOT open flue and as such do not fall under the change in ventilation regs.

Would be handy if you can get the GC number, will be on a data badge stuck insde the boiler looks like GC 12 123 12.

A main condensing combi with flue is approx 500 quid, these boilers are made by baxi pottererton and are exactly the same internally and externally as the potterton performa models but just not branded on the front and its 300 quid cheaper.

ig you could stretch to 800/900 then a vaillant or worcester would be my choice.

fitting, well if yours is a combi then that makes life easier and a straight swop with minimal pipework woudl set you back approx 700 quid.

vents on cupboards where a combi is fitted generally are only there for cooling purposes.

but of course without knowing specifically what model you have i cant be sure..

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Paul, I like you prices, they seem cheap.

I had a quote from BG to supply and install a baxi pottererton boiler and they wanted over £2500, I know BG are expensive anyway.

Didn't need to get a new one as insurance company agreed to pay £800 to fix our old one hehe...

But will prob need one in a year or so

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700 quid on top of the boiler price :ohmy:

How long does it take to install?

if its literally to replace a combi with a new combi or even replacing existing system (hot water tank type) then a day if that.

im cheap cause i dont rip people off.

@ p4ul t, let me know when you want one. :whistling:

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is that the natural gas highflow model ? certainly these boilers are room sealed, ie NOT open flue and as such do not fall under the change in ventilation regs.

Would be handy if you can get the GC number, will be on a data badge stuck insde the boiler looks like GC 12 123 12.

A main condensing combi with flue is approx 500 quid, these boilers are made by baxi pottererton and are exactly the same internally and externally as the potterton performa models but just not branded on the front and its 300 quid cheaper.

ig you could stretch to 800/900 then a vaillant or worcester would be my choice.

fitting, well if yours is a combi then that makes life easier and a straight swop with minimal pipework woudl set you back approx 700 quid.

vents on cupboards where a combi is fitted generally are only there for cooling purposes.

but of course without knowing specifically what model you have i cant be sure..

Hi.thanks..says its a natural gas highflow....gc numbers

bf model 41 311 39. Of model 41 311 38

Had bad experience with potterton boilers in my last house - in fact the whole estate did- every year about nov time would go into lockout mode- along with allthe others- you could tell it was November by looking out the window and seeing all the British gas vans! So would never go there again. Everyone else I speak to recommends the Worcester or valiant boilers too.

Assuming I go for a new Worcester/valiant what would you be looking at for you to replace Inc new boiler, install and travel to st19 area?

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Earlier this year I has my bolier replaced although there was nothing wrong with it after nearly 20 years and it had perfect emmissions. I had a Worcester Bosch 24Ri ( keeping cylinder and header tank ) also had a wirless thermostat so I could decide best plac eto put it and a new controller to allow seperate times for CH and H20.Cost came out at approx. £1800 which included a later fitted expansion tank in the loft as there seemed to be unecessary air in the system. This was obviously a bit longer time wise as there was a bit of electrics required due to change of stat and controller ( needed amongst otherthings a cable from boiler to airinf cupboard - not easy in a modern house with chipboard flloors ).

This should give you a price comparison and it coped with 13 radiators.

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