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Just A Couple Of Servicing Answers Needed Please


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Hi all, my name is Steve, I'm a recent new owner of an 03 silver IS200, really love the car more than any others I've had. Its 1 owner with full Lexus history which I verified before I purchased, I also spoke to the previous owner who was an elderly lady who had just retired from driving.

My question is, I'm going to service it myself and so, a few weeks back when I bumped into a friend who works in a Audi main Dealer, I picked up their listed oil, Synta ED, which now I have checked and is 0w-30 grade. Would this be o.k. do you think? or should I change it for the letter for letter correct type?

Also, its due a 10 year service do you think it is worth changing the gearbox and axle oils, anti-freeze and brake fluid as per service or should I just check levels and condition? (anti-freeze and brake fluid look and test like new).

Finally, I've done the belt with the help from a top Master Tech and have just fixed the only issue, the pass seat heater wasn't working which I figured was the lack of a live between the switch and seat, I have just replaced the wire and all is great now!

Thanks for any help:-)

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Hi there and welcome. Great cars. First car ive been passionate about too.

Yes 5w/30 or 10w/40. Seems most ppl tend to use 5W/30 ive found, including myself. Personally if its a fluid that can be checked visually to determine its condition, then go ide go by that but thats just me. some fluids cant be checked like this and you would need to change them for the peace of mind of it being done....

My main reason for replying is ive been trying to find a fix for my heated passenger seat for sometime now and you say it was the switch on yours? Can you help me out on how to go about fixing it, just in case i have the same prob...

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Thanks for the replies, yeah the oil I have is 0w-30 but my understanding this is a better oil i.e, thinner at colder temps than 5w-30 but anyway I think I will swap it for the Quantun Longlife3. Also i mis-read the book and the gearbox oil would not need doing til120k.Does anyone know if any special keys needed for the axle or manual gearbox top and bottom bungs?

Oh and Peteay no, I had a live coming out of the switch so i knew the switch was fine but no live going into the seat and as I figured there was no relay or fuse between these 2 points I just cut the wire and replaced the length from switch output to the seat input and all works fine now.

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Thanks for the replies, yeah the oil I have is 0w-30 but my understanding this is a better oil i.e, thinner at colder temps than 5w-30 but anyway I think I will swap it for the Quantun Longlife3. Also i mis-read the book and the gearbox oil would not need doing til120k.Does anyone know if any special keys needed for the axle or manual gearbox top and bottom bungs?

Oh and Peteay no, I had a live coming out of the switch so i knew the switch was fine but no live going into the seat and as I figured there was no relay or fuse between these 2 points I just cut the wire and replaced the length from switch output to the seat input and all works fine now.

thanks for that info, but just one more thing. How do I got about checking live under the seat? Ive got a metre but theres various connectors under there...
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Unbolt the seat Petay, there are 2 wiring connectors under the front of the seat, leave the 2 wiring looms connected, then tilt it backwards and put something under to stop in falling forward, you can then check the wires whilst it is all connected up.

The yellow connector is the airbag so be careful and leave well alone lol, the other has 4 wires, 2 thicker ones which is the power supply and negative to the seat, these are what put the 'big' power to the seat, if the seat is adjusting position o.k.then these will be working fine.

Then there are 2 smaller wires, 1 for the seatbelt flashing light (when the seat is sat in this becomes live and turns the flashing seatbelt light on, on the dash and then when the seatbelt is clicked in it will turn the live back off) and finally 1 which just tells the heated seat to turn on or off.

It was the same colour out of the switch and into the seat and that is red with a thin green stripe.

Before you do all this though pull the switch housing out by putting your hand underneath it and sliding it towards the gearstick, then swap the switches over which will eliminate a switch fault if the seat still doesn't heat up.

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The quantum longlife is good oil but the long life nonsesce is simply a bone thrown to the tree huggers to give the impression that 18k miles on a VW is a good thing. ... I tend to use long life in my van but change it at 10k

It is and alway will be my opinion that 5w30 is still a bit thin for the IS200 but is the preferred lube for the IS300 but plenty use 5w30 and are happy with it... I use 10w40 in the lex as it is more suitable for British weather all year round

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I saw on my service history lexus use 10w40 but indipendant garages tend to use 5w30. I guess ill go by lexus. Will a thinner oil run smoother Transporter?

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I doubt that you would notice the difference but to my mind, a thicker oil at higher temperatures is better, and will keep better oil pressure and in cold weather is unoticable too.... If you look at the operating teperature range of 5w30 and 10w40 then for the UK 10w40 is the correct choice.... If I lived in Scandinavia then 5w30 would be the better choice as it gets pretty cold there

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Thought I'd add to this to save a opening a new topic, I have a private plate on retention, Its not personal just a dateless plate, just looking for what people think should I assign it or flog it, its IXI 662

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