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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/05/2014 in all areas

  1. Brian The quickest way to treat the cill is to remove the kick plate on the rear door and the plastic garnish, this will give you access to the inside of the cill through holes that may be taped up, this can be removed and replaced when the waxoyl as been sprayed around inside the cill.There is also a large rubber oblong grommet just in from the bottom of the rear wheel arch in the chassis. this also gives access for spraying waxoyl within the chassis area. The car will stink of waxoyl for about a month but it does stop corrosion that may be in there.
    1 point
  2. Thanks Chaps: I finally found a way to sort it out,after taking tha mirrors off,you can remove the platic guard by undoing the clips I gave them a sanding with 1500W&D a coat of grey primer 2 coats of black gloss paint and a coat of clear lacquer now they look brand new. Cheers
    1 point
  3. Don't think I'd better go to a meet. Ill be hyperventilating! :-)
    1 point
  4. Just remembered something else that might help you. I'm sure I've read on here that Toyota Land Cruisers have the same motors, but are available for less than the Lexus part.
    1 point
  5. Haha. Apologies for my optimism. Haven't seen another ISF since I got mine so I got a little overexcited. Just watch this thread run into the hundreds as all those black ISF owners with registrations starting 'CG10' blitz the forum. Then who'll be laughing!!!!
    1 point
  6. Might be worth investigating your connections on the amp/processor unit. Lift the smallish deck cover on the rhs of the boot floor. You'll need to take up the centre carpet bit first as i recall. Then you'll see the ML unit. Perhaps have the unit on and working properly to see if a gentle root around finds a loose connection.
    1 point
  7. tesco and lexus dont get well together as it seems. on a serious note, there seems to be a loose connection somewhere
    1 point
  8. Don't know if it'll help but have a look on the club Lexus forum. www.clublexus.com/forums/is-third-generation. They seem to love buying their cars and then modding everything in sight! Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC
    1 point
  9. I am in contact with an audio company and I plan to look at this further in the coming weeks. I will advise once I have more info. Sent from my iPad using Lexus OC
    1 point
  10. Been lots of spy shots of gs but not is. I hope it's true! I would certainly buy another based on my current ownership experience.
    1 point
  11. To be fair to Lexus their policy on internal rust showing through is usually dealt with and the issues with the doors were mentioned on this forum a year or two ago. The Mark 1 suffered quite badly above the rear wheel arches and mine also had rust within the forward part of the wheel arch under the rear door when it was about ten years old, that was caused by penetration of the wheel arch behind the underseal (probably a stone impact) and water seeping into the internal part of the cill .It was remedid by flooding the area with waxoyl and survived until it was twenty two years old.A lot of the suspect areas for rust on the Mark 1 were identified by Lexus by the time they got to the Mark 4.The other areas that rusted was the rear subframe and mine was in a bad way when it left my ownership .This was due to the really bad winters a few years ago when there was more grit and salt being put on the roads than ever before. I left the car for three months in the garage while I was abroad and there were rust stalictites coming off it when I got back. When I purchased this Mark 4 with a pristine chassis I coated the whole of the metal underframe with 6 cans of dinitrol and it as worked a treat ,not a brown spot anywhere.
    1 point
  12. Yes thats the cable you need, the se's and sport models came with a built in amp that lives under the glovebox and passenger side kick trim. This has to be unpluged to connect the new amp-by=pass cable to, which is then ran up the inside of the dash to the new head unit. So the link you gave is correct. Also wehn fitting the new head unit find the aerial cable, it has a black wire attched to it, this black wire is the 12v+ feed to power the signal booster which you must feed 12v+ to give you any decent radio reception!!!! Pm me if you need any more help fitting your new head unit. Martin.
    1 point
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