dangerous brain

Silkolene pro oil is a "true" synthetic oil and like colin says doesn't need changing that often as its esters don't break down. As I said oilman on the mk4 soop forum can tell you in very deep chemical detail about this sort of thing

Oh yes I have a great deal of experience with RLTC. Its saved my bacon as many times as I care to think. It also makes my car so much more driveable in bad weather and atrocious road conditions. I find the stock TRC on the supra woefully slow and quite dangerous. My car if you switch the RLTC off in a dry carpark you can fully 180 the car from a standstill with full lock on before the TRC cuts the fuel, it then proceeds to keep the fuel cut for about 2-3 seconds not really ideal in my book. RLTC will just keep pushing you in a circle even with your foot planted to the floor back it off a couple of settings and the back will break out a bit and you'll get a bit of a power slide.

http://www.whifbitz.co.uk/index.html is a good general imported machine shop

Cheers skeet chap. If its sensors then I am sure I can replace them myself if I can actually source them. As for trac control limiting fun I'd have to say that the stock ones trac on a supe is almost dangerous with its all or nothing power cut. I don't think the traction control will be working on mine when it shows up which is no loss to me as I am gonna put rltc on when i have the cash

OOO dear so my 19" rims with rubber bands on are going to be a tad rough in the ride dept??? To be fair if you want to ride on a majic carpet get a car with active hydraulic or air suspension, citroen do a good job in this dept. Toyota put 16" rims on their base models based on cost reasons as 16"s are mucho cheap as chips. The top of the range motor has 18" deep dish alloy rims as standard straight from the factory.

for oils see oilman on the mk4 supra forums he does fantastic deals on various proper fully synthetic oils and being a proper chemist type i think he knows his stuff. Halfords stuff wont cause you any harm but it wont have the longevity that the oils this guy reccomends. Like col says getting the oil out of the torque converter and other nooks an crannies is not an easy job. I suppose you could take the power steering cooler pipe off and drain the system down (being as that is the lowest point on the car for the powersteering system)

I've recently had hassle from an ebayer. Not of this country despite trading on ebay UK. Bloke was a complete muppet. Advertised a 3-5 day delivery time and took over a week to get back to me about payment details. Yet another week went by and still my paying him issues had not been addressed. In the end I emailed him and told him I wasn't going to buy his product as I had been and bought another 1 elsewhere whilst I waited for him to actually communicate with me. This guy is a registered trader with an ebay shop so no excuses accepted. Without getting in touch at all he raised an unpaid item strike against me. I immediately had ebay remove this. The negative feedback I can't do anything about other than to respond to it using the response ability and rely on my exemplorary ebay feedback other than his very badly worded cack to inform people of my genuinity. I think I'd be more ****** off if I was more of a seller than a buyer.

Ah right I see. I thought that the wastegate controllers IE the VSV's were controlled by a mechanical boost controller, a bit like the ones I have seen on ebay. I didn't know that the ecu controlled them. Theoretically all that you need is a box to fudge the voltage from the ECU to the VSV to up the boost and not a whole ECU. I did know that boost could not be reduced by a boost controller but assumed that it was because of mechanical reasons.

If anybody knows anything about this in this country I might be tempted to think its the guys over at thor. I'm not sure if the CRD supra has been stroked to get it where it is power wise. Best bet would be to ask the US lex forum or the supraforums in the US about this. I wasn't sure what it is actually controls the waste gate, I was under the impression it was pressure and mechanically done by the stock mechanical boost controller and not the ECU itself. Something like a blitz dbsc being used in place of the stock boost controller to alter this along with the freer flowing exhaust on JDM motors. UK spec machines aren't quite as simple to do. About fuel I physically can't resist the urge to plant it so cheaper fuels are not an option so route planning is a must to ensure proper fuel is used :) Plus my car is on the very edge of performance on the injector front so I can't afford to run pap fuel at top end where it goes slightly lean.

I'll go with that. The boxes in the supra (very similar boxes) respond very well to complete oil changes ie not just draining it and filling it but completely removing the oil which I beleive requires removal of the oil pan and strainer.

I was gonna say that the engine was rocking like a sod. Also was it just me or were there no colling fans at the front of that car cooling it down like you expect at a decent rolling road?

So wastegate control alone can up the boost to 1 bar? Are the denso plugs cheaper ie pay more for the HKS name? I seriously wouldn't run a stock TT on 95 ron regardless of ECU programming and would definitely never consider 95 ron for raised boost TT's. Having heard alot about what aftermarket knock sensors pick up that stock ones don't its SUL all the way for me. My car won't run smooth at all under full boost with sainsburies SUL or 95 so I just don't go there.

Well as mine is an aristo its not got fogs so they will be extra brake lights I guess like the supra is. MMMM now then I just need to figure out where to put the reverse lights.

OK ey dokeys lol. Before we go any further I wasn't questioning the wisdom of the ECU or having a go at it at all I was questioning how an ECU can up the boost output of a system without complimentary modifications. I didn't think you could simply make 1 bar of boost by changing the ECU. Stock boost is 0.8 bar. I never said that you NEEDED an FMIC just an uprated intercooler if you started upping the boost to 1.2 bar. There is a whole seperate argument going on about wether an FMIC is better than a SMIC. Chris Wilson I think has designed and retails an uprated SMIC that fits into the same space that the stock one does with little or no extra pipework required. Bigger injectors well those will only be required if you up the power beyond 450 bhp. My supra runs a calculated 474 bhp at the fly on Thors dyno using a figure of 395 BHP at the hubs and a 19% trans loss. Myself I think thats a bit ambitious and would put the figure around 8-9% losses putting the power in and around 440-450 which if you use the rule of thumb of the injector size limiting the power to its equivalent power is about right as mine just starts to lean off at the very top end of power. The 12 volt mod??? Well there are quite a few on the UK forum who say its very very pants. At the least look for a UK supra TT pump 2ndhand failing that a walbro retails at just under £100 and goes straight in with little effort. Fuel well theres another debate. Running higher boost precludes the use of 95 RON alltogether allthough stock TT's shouldn't really be run on 95. Supra boys swear by shell optimax. Myself I see no difference between optimax, BP ultimate, esso SUL, and tesco SUL 99 ron. Sainsburies SUL results in bad det on my car but should be OK on cars with less power. Octane booster is not required in my car at the mo I'll let you know how my aristo fares when I get that and know what boost its running. HKS Iridium sparks are good ones but only if you have no detonation (if you have det then the cermaic centres fall out and blow a hole in your pistons). you can run copper plugs but you have to change them every 3k miles as they melt.

Cool better safe than sorry. You can alw3ays take it back out afterwards

Did you get your boost gauge installed as well?

OK how does it do that? Raise the boost I mean? Surely you have to take the cats out and free up the exhaust to actaully achieve 1.2 bar of boost even on the VVTi engine? You only need to remove boost cut after you raise the boost by freeing up the exhaust. Also is it not an idea to up your fuel pump capacity to say a walbro one in order to prevent underfueling at high boost? An FSE is also a good idea if you are going to run 1.2 bar. I'd also be concerned about EGT's with a stock SMIC.

how many lights work in this boot light cluster in the mk1? Its just I would like to straight up get rid of it and flush it in as I personally think it looks cack.

Well I can tell you what not to get Ferroli don't even think about it. They are cheap for a reason. Gloworm, baxi, and most of the other boilers that british gas reccomend should stand you in good stead.

It will of course make it much louder on a normally aspirated engine. It does on supra N/A's almost bloomin deafening in fact.

First day cooking stuff this. Don't stick your finger in a plugged in blender :D you not seen the frog in the blender thing on the net. http://joecartoon.atomfilms.com/pages/frogbender/ for your education lol

So mine was the highest up the wall on the day then :) So who wants to buy it then lol

Yeah I emailed him as well and he said the same so I've got 1 on order will let ya'll know how easy it is.

Your joking right ? ← UM NOPE No worries there pal. I think Ahmet stole the power record for the day :winky: ← Methinks someone was poking fun at either me or Ahmet then /????? No fair takin the pee out of the new boys.

We weren't all that sure. I spoke to gaz about it this morning. Is it an electronic speedo? Will the thor box for the MK4 supra work for conversion and delimiting?