Talisker

Hi there all, Bit of a specialist question, but does anyone have a list of the components in the original TTE black box? More specifically the value of the yellow/orange Tantalum bead capacitor? My black box has recently broken down so I pulled it apart to see if I could see anything amiss. Sure enough found some dry joints but accidently destroyed the aforementioned capacitor digging it out of the awful silicone stuff. The only information I could get off the shell was 35V, I need the farad value. Failing that does anyone have a knackered Black box they would be willing to throw my way? Cheers in advance.

Close your eyes, cross your fingers and wish really really hard! :winky: Seriously though, these kits are like hen's teeth to get hold of, it took me a year to get hold of mine. Your best bet is to keep checking the sales board here and they occasionally crop up on ebay.

Hi there, You may have done so already, but you need to check the fault code using a OBD tester. All garages should have them and charge about £30 for the privilege. Maybe that will point you in the right direction for your problem.

Here's mine. God knows when it was taken, the photo from the other side still has my horrible chromed headlights.

Not sure if the designs differ but I've got the B&M short shifter. It uses a cylindrical block of aluminium to raise the level of the pivot, thus shortening the throw of the gear shift. It should be pretty self explanatory when you unscrew the gearknob and lift the panel from the centre console (this panel encompasses the leather gaitor then all the way forward under the radio). Give it some persuasion and it should lift then you'll have to disconnect the cigarette lighter and the ashtray light and it'll lift out completely. There should be a rubber gaitor around the shaft, that creates the weather shield between the inside and the outside. Pull this out and you should be looking at the gearbox with your short shifter bolted to the top of it. My foam sits between the mating faces of the shortshift assembly and the gearbox. Hope this helps and I've not baffled you further.

When i installed my short shifter i was surprised at the amount of noise being transmitted to the cabin. I got some very thin (1.5mm) but dense foam sheet from work, cut it to shape and sandwiched it between the shifter and the gearbox. This helped an awful lot.

One of your door switches? If one of these is sensed open the car will not lock.

Rusty/pitted discs could be a sign that either your caliper pistons are sticking or more likely your pads are stuck in the caliper. It might be worth your while removing the pads from the calipers and cleaning out any corrosion and cleaning up the pad guide rails. Certainly not a difficult job to sort yourself and you might save yourself some money in the long run.

Aha, that makes sense. Cheers Bazza.

Hey guys, I was having a browse around the forums and saw in DJ Wozza's upgraded intercooler topic that the front wall of his wheel arch liners are vented, mine are not. Wozza's are like this presumably to aid brake cooling. My question is, is this an OEM thing that the later IS200's have? Or are people doing this themselves as a cheeky little mod as i was thinking about jumping on the band wagon. Cheers.

Hi there, sorry for not replying sooner. I was sent out of the country pretty short notice, the joys of being in the air force. My bar is 600mm long, but any length should be appropriate as long as you can get enough torque on it. The centre of the bolts are 75mm apart and the cut out was to allow me to get a socket on the crank pulley bolt. And it worked great for me but be aware the bolt is torqued up to 220Nm so a fair bit of puff was involved (puff as in physical effort not marijuana).

My one and only decal is the TTE one in my avatar. But i justify that by owning a supercharger

I fabricated myself a tool in the end. Basically a hefty piece of angle iron with some bolts welded to it to line up with the holes in the crank pulley. Here it is, And please don't pick apart the state of my welding, it was a quick job

I posted a guide a while ago here, Click me!

Dude, did you know your car is tilted dangerously to the right?! ;)

Apparently they are supposed to improve the earth return of all electrical loads therefore making the car electrics more efficient ie. better throttle response, brighter lights, clearer audio etc. etc. But to be honest unless your wiring or terminals are all corroded, you should be ok. A lot of people install these kits for engine dress up purposes, myself included. Someone might have had positive results but i didn't detect much difference, maybe a slightly smoother idle. Hope this helps.

Thanks very much, my next job is to smoke the front fogs so they're nearly the same colour as the bodywork. The rear lights were a bit of a pain in the arse but very worth it. I did a write up here Click Here. Hope it's not too ambiguous. It just takes Patience, Guts and Patience oh and Patience, hehe hope i stressed that enough.

Thanks very much that'd be a great help.

Hi there, I'm toying with the idea of buying a second 1G-FE engine and fully refurbing it before i drop it in the car. But to do that i'll need an engine cradle so i can work on it safely and without damaging the engine. So does anyone know the basic dimensions of the mounts on the engine? Any other hints and tips would be useful. Thanks.

The beeping when you are in reverse is just to let you know that you're in reverse. Most aftermarket kits have their own speaker and ecu etc. The only wires you may have to find are a postive feed and an earth return to power the kit.

The Rolls Royce RB211 uses a combined electric and bleed air start sequence.

Excellent as you work on jet engines could you please tell me if the following is true when we were delayed coming home the other week. The captain announced the reason for the delay was that the "starter motor on one of the engines had to be replaced and took 2.5 hours ( Boeing 757-200) I always thought these engines were started by an external unit on the ground and the only way to restart a jet engine that stops in flight is to "windmill" it There are a few ways to start a turbo-fan jet engine. Most engines use an electric starter motor combined with bleed air that comes from the APU (Auxilliary power unit, this is the small jet engine, usually in the aft body of the aircraft that provides power and air for the jet when no external sources are present) in order to spool the engine before ignition begins and the engine becomes self sustaining. External air start trolleys are used in the absence of bleed air from an internal source. And yes jobs can take a long time when you're working on aircraft, the so called five minute jobs that take up half your night are the best ones. Personally i'd rather be thorough in a job and take more time over it. It's not worth cutting any corners, no matter how small, when peoples lives are relying on you doing the job right. Hope this helps :D

I think the standard ones look good, however they look very good when you take them apart and paint the chrome inside black.

Ha! A pulse jet powered merry go round! Very cool but not for me. I work on jet engines and i know what can go wrong, i favour my ***** intact! What?! I've been automatically edited. It won't let me post *****, I'll have to write bottom instead.

Consult the Lexus bible, here's the link: Click Me. Then look under repair manual, engine mechanical and timing belt removal. It details timing and timing marks there.