Talisker

What's the difference? Apart from the colour, of course.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but yes i think it will physically fit but the ratios inside are a little different to the IS200 diff. I think it's something like a higher top speed but a slight compromise to acceleration.

Sorry to say, this deal is too good to be true. I got in touch with the guy, explaining the Chassis ID plate number and he replied with this; 'THE CARS HAVE BEEN SCRAPPED AND THE PARTS ARE ON SHELF THESE DIFFS ARE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIALS ON THE IS200'S THEY ARE ALL THE SAME'. Unfortunately like many scrappys it seems he's ignorant to the fact that there is a difference in differentials. I've had troubles with scrappys before as you may have read in this thread, Click.

Thanks again, buddy. Just out of interest what exhaust do you have on yours now that I have this one?

I recently purchased the second hand TTE exhaust that was in the buy and sell section. And I've spent a bit of time refurbishing it before i got it on the car. Here's how i got on. It was pretty rusty and mucky when i first got it but it turned out to be largely superficial. Started the clean up. Painted the inside of the tailpipe and highlighted the TTE Logo. Painted it all up. And got it fitted. It sounds lovely too, not much louder than stock but with a nice resonating grumble.

Hi there, welcome to LOC. OK answers to your questions, a word of warning though these are just my personal opinions and not the opinions of any other LOC member or associated affiliates. I'm sure a lot more people will offer their advice to you to and put me to shame 1. It widely accepted that the first few mods you should do is to get some stiffer anti-roll bars, then take a wee trip to Wheels in Motion and get your geometry sorted by professionals. This will add oodles to your handling and sort out that dreaded body wallow. 2. Your in luck, the IS200 is very arse end light. So if one were to accidentally turn off their TRC just moments before your foot accidentally slips off the clutch while your revving high in the wet, you might find yourself fishtailing down the road with a big grin on your face ;) . But it is widely accepted that an LSD is preferable and a bolt off bolt on job if only you can source one. 3. Don't know is the simple answer to that one, I'm sure someone with a bit more knowledge can help you out on that one. 4. There are loads of lowering springs on the market just depends how low you wan to go and how much you can afford. Run a search in either the 'brakes and suspension' section or the 'mods and tuning' section and there will be loads of threads to look at. One more thing.......Get It Supercharged!! :D Hope that's satisfied you for now and once again welcome to LOC.

Well i gave the lex a facelift a couple of weeks ago with the headlight conversion and i finally got round to giving her a damn good polish. This was using the method of: 1. Wash & Rinse 2. Clay bar 3. Rinse to remove clay residue 4. Polish 5. Seal 6. Carnauba wax

Just don't use engine oil or anything though. Use silicone grease, that's best for plastics.

This is very true. But on that note, I recently connected my laptop to the OBDII plug and went for a spin to monitor some parameters. The temp outside read 21degrees, and the air intake temperature read 25degrees which i think is a really good value. The intercooler is obviously doing it's job very well. I should mention that when i installed the compressor i relocated the intake temp sensor to the pipework just before the throttle body to get a more realistic temperature reading.

If you can get all the bits for the oem sat-nav, ie. computer, screen, and remote control. I can't see why you can't install it yourself provided that you're willing to manufacture a wiring loom to tie all the bits together. A costly venture but if you think it's worth it then go for it. What a lot of people have done, including myself, is taken the oem screen housing, removed the screen and fitted their own portable sat-nav units. Run a search, i'm pretty sure there's a good tutorial explaing how to do this. I don't know about the wheels mate, I'm sure someone else can shed some light on that. Any idea of the offset? It needs to be within a certain value to fit the is200.

26 years old, 4 years no claims, all mods declared inc. supercharger, fully comp and breakdown cover. £560.

I'm pretty sure that if i got any of these for my garage door, the local chavs would burn it down within the hour. The little scamps. :tsktsk:

Very nice. You have the same colour car as mine, but on an X reg my paint is starting to look a bit shabby. I've also had some kind people scuff all but one corner of the car, i hate car parks. Was it a full respray? How much did it cost?

I've looked into doing this myself, I just haven't found a rear view mirror cheap enough to be worth the bother. I'm not sure if the standard navigator computer would run the compass part on the mirror, my lex doesn't have sat nav so i didn't bother looking that deeply into it. But it seems that all the dimming stuff is contained in the rear view mirror itself and all it needs is a live and an earth to run. It wouldn't take much to run some cables from the moon roof control unit to do this. Further more you have the ability to buy auto dimming wing mirrors and wire them up the the wing mirror pick offs in the rear view mirror so you have a full set of dimming mirrors. Hope this helps.

They're a bit mucky but you get the idea. I masked off the reverse light and indicator portions to keep them chrome.

I've have done this mod on my car. It was quite simple, like mat says the lens needs to be cut off. I used a dremel with a cutting disc to remove mine and once i got in to the swing of things managed to get the lens off in about 20mins. Once the lens is off, the chrome interior just pulls out similar to the headlights and the red portion is held in with some plastic tabs. You'll have to use silicone sealant to reattach the lens and maintain a watertight seal, i used clear silicone on mine which is very difficult to notice. I'll get some pictures up of what mine look like.

Try your local dealer or a motor factors for the part, sorry but i have no idea how much the pipe will cost. Replacing it shouldn't be too much of an issue, it looks to be a straight in and out job. If you remove the grill you should be able to get to one end of of the pipe where it goes into a flexi pipe which leads to the cooler in front of the radiator and obviously the other end is below the power steering reservoir. It is secured to the chassis by a couple of metal clamps, and hose clamps where it meets the flexi pipes. Seeing how all your fluid has leaked out anyway you shouldn't have to worry about draining the system. And i've explained how to replenish in my previous post. Hope this helps.

Do you mean the rigid pipe that lies along the chassis? Some pictures would be handy to look at. It's possible that this rigid pipe has fractured through vibration or the clamp being installed too tight or incorrectly. If so i see no reason why the pipe cannot be replaced then your steering fluid replenished. It's one of the easiest systems to replenish because it's self bleeding. Just top up the fluid, start the engine, turn the steering wheel full lock left and right a few times. Switch off the engine then top up the fluid to the mark. Easy. But be aware that power steering fluid is caustic and will strip any paint from the inside of your engine bay if it's not cleaned off thoroughly. Hope this helps and i've actually understood the problem you're describing.

No oil is leaking from the plug or the gasket, it's as dry as a bone. That's one of the first things i checked. Eaton suggest a 100,000 mile service but i think mine has only been run for about 35,000 so that's ok. It just surprised me how damn hot the thing was, but it all seems well. So thanks for your responses guys, much appreciated.

A few quick questions for all the guys with superchargers. I got home from a short trip the other day and popped the bonnet for a look at how my throttle cable was routed. Anyway as i leant into the engine i put my hand on the top of the compressor for support and found it was nearly too hot to touch. After further investigation i found it wasn't the whole of the charger that was really hot just the enclosed section at the front where the 2 counter-rotating gears and the oil is found. So my questions are these. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this normal? and Do i need to replace the oil in the compressor? EDIT: I should add that the charger is making no abnormal noises and has no obstructions, grinding bearings etc. When you spin it cool, it sounds and feels sweet as a nut.

I'm interested in the #4 option. X reg (2000), IS200 SE, Dial Model XE-01, UK Cheers.

Agreed. That is not good.

Get in touch with Tony at WIM he's a member on here, I'm sure he'll send you the geo details. I'm pretty sure he's helped out other guys on here where the distance to WIM for them has been too impractical. And yes she drives much better now. She feels so much taughter and solid through corners, the difference is astounding.

Not sure if it helps but here's a picture of my car with gunmetal wheels. Personally i think a silver car would like nice with matt black wheels.

So i've finally got round to lowering the lex and taking it round to Wheels in Motion. Here's some pics. Standard 4x4 Suspension Setup And lowered. With a much more arch hugging look. When i took it to WIM, Tony said the angles were all over the shop and promptly sorted it all out for me. Suffice to say the drive home was bliss, with no skittering or wobbles at high speed. Also the brakes felt a lot better. So anyone that hasn't taken their car to Wheels in Motion i highly recommend you do so, you won't be disappointed.